Summer 2016 E-Class Prices
P1
Lane Departure
Lighting pkg
Parking Assist (360 cam)
Sports pkg
Hybrid
Keyless Go
Power Trunk
comfort box
Dealer marked 51,999 on the window. Got it for 50K.
See if you can look for any leftover 2015's :-)
but if you are in the market for one (they discontinued the hybrid in 2016) but if they had 15's laying around...
P1
Lane Departure
Lighting pkg
Parking Assist (360 cam)
Sports pkg
Hybrid
Keyless Go
Power Trunk
comfort box
Dealer marked 51,999 on the window. Got it for 50K.
See if you can look for any leftover 2015's :-)
I've seen some new 2015s and asking for pricing on them and a 2016 from some dealers seems that they're willing to do more for 2016s. I don't know why?
I like to buy new because I'm not mechanically handy but want to keep my cars until the wheels fall off. I feel like the best chances of having a trouble free, long lasting car is to get a new one and follow the maintenance schedule by the book.
My past cars have been donated to teenage family members. Thinking about used, I always worry that I'm buying a car where the previous owner(s) never filled up with premium fuel, never changed the air filter or got the oil changed. I do wonder if the majority of people who buy used can get a 50K mile car and drive it to 200K miles with not much more than performing the recommended maintenance?
Shouldn't the 2017s give dealers a rebate on the 2016s, not 2015s? Or does Mercedes provide additional incentives to sell 2 year old cars on the lot?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Shouldn't the 2017s give dealers a rebate on the 2016s, not 2015s? Or does Mercedes provide additional incentives to sell 2 year old cars on the lot?
Back in 2015 a dealer offered me $20k off a 2013 E550 that had been sitting on the back of their lot for 2 years. They said they were losing money on the deal because MB was not offering any incentives on it, and they had also been paying interest on it for 2 years. Plus the $20k would knock the price far below their cost but they were willing to eat it in order to get rid of it.
I declined and it was later sold to an out of state buyer at $13k off MSRP. Guess that buyer was desperate for the V8
FWIW, this dealer has a W213 in the showroom right now.
I got $12,250 off MSRP(plus tax) on a 65,250 msrp car on my 2014 back in April 2014. I would buy a brand new 2016 only if it was at a heavy discount(around 15-20k off msrp).
At this point, you're better off buying a used 2014 with low miles for around $27k-$30k.
I just purchased a 2014 E350 sport with 30K for 30,000. NOT from a dealer, as all the dealers are insanely overpriced. Its in perfect shape besides some minor cosmetic stuff on the interior that is under warranty I am getting fixed. My GF is thinking about getting the same car with more options with only 15k and I can get it for 32500. I have a good hook up in Houston so mine was a hell of a deal, and it was from an auction. I LOVE HER (the car, not the GF lol?
.
I went in looking at the ’17, but liked the ’16 better.
Just hoping those who have purchased recently can share what sort of prices they got. Or if anyone has some sort of suggestion for baseline price that I should shoot for. Such as 10k below MSRP.
Thanks




You mentioned in your other post in the W213 forum that you are new to credit. Have you ever purchased a car before?
I bought a new 2016 E-350 a couple of months ago; one dealership would discount about 10%, another just a little more, and another offered $10,050 discount. I picked the car with the $10,050 discount. I could have used that $10K to buy service or additional warranty, but I didn't. I like having NOT to spend the $10K and using it for something else. Or donating it to charity. Or something else. I think YOU should ALWAYS pay full sticker for all of your cars, every year. And why buy just one? And please be sure to let all of us know how much $$ you gave up, just because you wanted to, OK?




