I hate that this is my first post, but I'm in a desperate situation and really need some help/advice.

My issue:

Car starts just fine, but I cannot get it out of Park. I have no power to almost everything on the inside, including the AC, Radio, Seats, Sunroof, Lights, etc. The gas gauge doesn't even work. The windows do work however. As you can see by the video below, as soon as I turn the key I'm presented with multiple system failures and service lights.

The only other thing worth mentioning (I think) is the radiator fan runs really fast after the car is running for about 15 seconds. The second video (under the hood) illustrates my point. I'm not sure if this is related or even normal.

To make things worse, I cant even find a tow company to tow the car because it wont go into neutral. They said all they can do is drag my car onto the flatbed, but they dont feel comfortable doing that.

So after much research I did find one article that seems to match my issue (see below), but I'm having a hard time understanding what it really means in terms of a fix. I get that perhaps a fuse/relay is bad, but I was leaning toward a relay issue because so many systems are down. I did swap some of the smaller black relays under the hood to see if anything changed, but nothing did. Bottom line I'm not sure what to do with the information I found on the possible issue.

My hope is someone can tell me how to fix this, so I can pay someone to come to my house and do the work, or if it's easy perhaps I can do it myself.

Video 1: Interior Experience


Video 2: Under the Hood


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Article I found which sounds spot on to my issue:

ENGINE STARTS BUT W/ MULTIPLE WARNINGS IN IC, VEHICLE WILL NOT COME OUT OF PARK, ALL CONTROL UNRESPONSIVE

===============

ENGINE STARTS BUT W/ MULTIPLE WARNINGS IN IC, VEHICLE WILL NOT COME OUT OF PARK, ALL CONTROL UNITS ON CIRCUIT 30G ARE INOP. I.E. COMAND

DEALER TECH TOPICS; FEBRUARY 2014

Reference Number(s): TT 02/14, Date of Issue: February 2014
MERCEDESBENZ:
Models 207, 212
GROUP: 54.15 Fuse
and relay box
TOPIC
Engine starts but w/ multiple warnings in IC, vehicle will NOT come out of Park, all control units on circuit 30g are inop. i.e. COMAND

CAUSE / EXPLANATION

30g relay not closing

DTC's "B219116 The power supply of circuit 30g is outside the valid range. The limit value for electrical voltage has not been attained", & "B214B72 The output for switch "Quiescent current ON" has a malfunction. The actuator does not close."

CORRECTION

Diagnosis The 30g relay opens after the vehicle is stationary with key off after 6 hours. Let the vehicle sit for six hours with a volt meter or scope. Look for the 12 volt supply to close the relay from the rear SAM going to F32, when waking up the CAN. The signal is fast and on a meter may only read about 6 volts for a short period. If using a scope it will read battery voltage. If the problem is occurring and 12 volts to close the relay is okay, then replace F32 (30g is inside F32).

 

Could be the auxiliary battery located under the dash.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...placement.html

 

Wouldn't that give a "low" message of some type? There's no mention of auxiliary battery on any of the numerous warnings.

Also, are you sure it's under the dash on this year/model? I

 

How long have you owned this car? It is filthy under the hood. These are symptoms of a flooded car. You really need to get it to a good Indy mechanic or dealer.

 

I've had the car for 2.5 years and it's had zero issues until this. The engine looked clean when I bought it. No flood damage that I'm aware of.

 

The problem must be voltage loss to some module as there are so many malfunctions. All this starting at the same time is not a flood damage issue unless you just had the car under water before this all started, which you did not.


It seems you have the very issue you posted in the bottom of your post and have the g30 relay issue. I have no glue what the g30 relay of F32 are but my guess is that F32 is a circuit board or module that houses the g30 relay.


If the issue is with this you should be able to fix it yourself but I'm not sure where the F32 is. Usually changing these modules is not really that difficult but access to it may be. And, of course, you need to get the F32.


Is your car a 4Matic? If not, why can't the tow company pickup the rear for towing it?

 

Also try calling another tow truck company and make sure they bring an extra set of wheels. I've seen tow trucks tow cars where they slap on an extra set of wheels on the car. You could probably call the dealer or the MBUSA national help line and they'd get you the right type of tow truck.

 

Does this look like it could be the F32 fuse? I thought this is an easy way to jump start your car? There's a red sliding door marked positive.

http://merc-3bde.kxcdn.com/wp-conten...x-Location.jpg

 

That is the remote positive jump lead terminal.

 

OP, there could be a relay in the jumper terminal as the picture suggests (also found here). I haven't opened it up myself. I would disconnect the battery first.

There is a fuse #32 that relates to engine electronics on the driver's side fuse box but that does not appear to be what they are talking about.

Relays are usually a cheap and easy fix. If you find a relay under that plastic cover, get the part number off it to verify that it is the F32 relay and look up replacements or even check at the dealer. I would consider just replacing it unless the cost is extraordinary that is makes sense to troubleshoot first.

 

Free Wheeling Adapter (MB tool 164589036300) will allow the vehicle to be moved when the transmission is locked in park. Tow to MB dealership should be free if they perform diagnostics at cost.

 

I've ordered the F32 pre-front fuse and will attempt to replace it when it arrives. I'll disconnect the battery of course. Any other tips someone can provide? Instructions would be great if there are maintenance instructions out there on how to perform this procedure.

 

So this is a fuse and not a relay? Basically it kills those components that are now showing fault? What causes it to fail and how do you know it isn't something significant causing the failure? When big fuses fail it scares the hell out of me that the cause is more complicated than a simple replacement can fix. I wish you well.

 

I'm not sure what it is to be honest, all I know is the knowledge base article is spot on to my issues and it says that's the fix. I'm not confident that it will fix it, but before the dealer drops a huge bill on me, I'd like to attempt the repair myself.

Has anyone changed this part, or can someone point me to instructions?

 

So I found what this look like on the inside. These are all bolt-on fuses inside of this F32 front pre-fuse.

 

OP, can you post the part number or link for what you ordered? Based on the article you posted above I would expect it to be a relay, not a fuse, since it refers to it as a relay and mentions it opening and closing like a relay would (which fuses don't do). That could be what has the part number A0009822223 in the photo you posted.

I took the cover off my positive jumper terminal and couldn't see much. I see from the photo above that what I saw was the top of the part pictured. I didn't realize there was all that underneath it. Credit to you for researching this in detail. I hope after all this that replacing that relay does the trick.

 

I agree with you about the fuse concern if that is what it is. But this excerpt from the article seems to indicate that because the relay is not closing that the voltage to the rear SAM is not adequate (stuck in sleep mode and not getting full power or something). It says the 30g relay is part of the F32 part which from the photo also includes inline fuses.

I had thought that 10 years was about the expected life of most relays given they wear out from use. But I just replaced a suspected relay on 2010 Honda because the AC compressor vented refrigerant one time. Apparently the relay got stuck and ran the compressor after the climate meant to shut it off. If I hadn't found an article online posted in a forum (like this one), I would not have even thought to check that first. In that case it was a cheap $10 fix. Saved me from submitted to dealer diagnosis and runaround.

 

Yeah, I think you are correct, Fisch. I would be locating and testing the part though, rather than just ordering it and replacing it with fingers crossed that it solves the issue. That is not the way to fix things, but whatever.

 

I have attached the WIS instructions to replace F32. I have not personally done this job. Use the instructions at your own risk. Hope this helps!

 

Thank you very much!

 

I hope whichever part under there is being replaced does the trick for you. Don't rush it and good luck!

 

Got the part, but no fuses inside, so worthless.

Can anyone tell me where to get an OEM A2125400550 w/ fuses installed? Perhaps that's a different part number that includes fuses.

 

I broke down and called the tow truck.

 

This is the wisest thing you have done

 

I assume 2125400550 is the part # taken from vehicle (current # 2125406350), if not what is the VIN?

In as much as you may not want to hear this is I suggest you contact MB dealer to have vehicle towed (using free-wheeling adapter) and fault codes pulled. In this way you will know codes and their recommended repair method/cost. Your call.

Some background info you may want to apply:
DTC B219116 circuit 30g discussed here for GLK http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...park/page_339/

There is a repair kit available fitted between pyrofuse & prefuse box (3 & 4 in diagram) shown here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...nt/2044405507/