wgray105

Thank you very much ItalianJoe1. I tried your method of simply making a sealed connection between the MityVac extraction apparatus and the top of the dip stick tube. Worked like a charm. Got 6-plus quarts out.


This method has the added advantage of allowing a larger extraction tube, so it works faster.


I'm still curious, and will probably never know, why I wasn't able to make it work by putting an extraction tube down into the dip stick tube.

socci

My method absolutely extracts almost every drop. The first time I did it I even removed the oil pan bolt and there was nothing but drops left in it. My mityvac tube wasn't even close to all the way down the dipstick tube.

markgm

Yep, came here to say the same thing. The rubber part (with the tube flush) is the only thing that does into the dip stick tube. No need to try to get the tube to the bottom.

wgray105

So, I think socci and markgm both agree that simply making a seal to the top of the dip stick tube as first suggested to me by ItalianJoe1 works great.

Arrie

Then they build the engine with the dip stick tube going all the way to the bottom of the oil pan.


You drive the same car as I do so next time just for heck of it I'll try without the small tube going in the bottom of the engine.


It still don't explain why wgray105 could not pull oil out with the small tube all the way in unless the tube really never went all the way in...?

beejAMG

puzzles me as well, but as long as the problem is solved for OP...happy days!

ItalianJoe1

Yeah, all but a few very special ones have the dipstick all the way down so it's suitable for vacuum extraction. As noted, if you seal the top tightly, you will get almost all of it.

Do pull the filter first, at least loosen it. It will hold almost a full quart, so if you vacuum first and then release the filter, you miss that extra quart of dirty oil and will overfill if you just pour 8 quarts back in.

Arrie

You must have a special huge oil filter as mine is so small it probably holds only a quart of a quart of oil and every time I opened it there was no oil in it.


What comes to the dip stick tube it may be that the tube extends to very close to the bottom of the oil pan in all of these cars. Then when you try pulling oil out with the small vacuum tube it pulls oil out until the oil flow thru the small gap between the dip stick tube end and oil pan bottom gets restricted enough so the vacuum tube starts sucking air that enters thru that dip stick tube. If you seal the top of the dip stick tube you get the whole effect of the vacuum, which helps getting more or all of the oil out. What restricts the oil flow is the viscosity of the not hot enough oil.


Above explains my experience when all oil did not come out when oil was not very hot. Every time since I heated the oil well I got all of the oil out with the skinny vacuum tube in the dip stick tube all the way in the bottom.


It makes a lot of sense if MB really built it this way. They do not need to take time to heat the oil when they extract it.


This also explains some weird oil level checks discussed under some other topics where dip stick first does not show oil level at the level it should be.

no_mulligan

I drive the car normally. When I get home, I open the hood and let it sit for 1 hour in my garage. I have the MityVac 7201. I use the largest hose and push it into the dipstick tube where it seals about 1" from the top. Within the 2nd pump of the air cylinder, oil is coming out. Loosen the oil filter housing and take the oil filler cap off. I give it a pump about every 30 seconds and 6 minutes later, 8 liters of oil. Dump out a quart or two and finish sucking out that last 1/2 qt. That's all of the oil. 8.6 qts total.

Arrie

Changed my oil a couple of weeks ago and this time I used the Mity-Vac connecting and sealing it to the top of the dip stick tube not using the skinny tube inside the dip stick tube. I got 4.5 quarts of oil out.


Connected the skinny tube as I normally do and inserted it all the way down inside the dip stick tube and got rest of the 9 quarts out.


Commented on the filter housing earlier already. My filter housing is 1/4 of the 1/4 qt in volume and when opening it there is only a tea spoon full of oil in it.

xsever

Is the car 4MATIC? If it is, the front axle going through the oil pan and splitting makes it hars for the extractor method to suck everything out hence why a good ol' drain is needed.

This what my friend who is an MB mechanic told me. He used to work for the dealership before opening his own shop.

socci

Mine is a 4Matic so I have to use the method of sealing the rubber groumet over the dipstick tube, not down it. I get all of the oil out without any issue with this method.

xsever

I concur. My friend's comments were not the most accurate. I had to change the engine oil today on my W204 C300 4MATIC Sport and using the extractor and the gromet sucked 6.8-9.6L out of 7.0L. I then drained it from the bottom and the remaining 0.1-0.2L drained out.

I'll probably alternate draining every other time.

pezzy669

The stick with o-ring on the end of the plastic oil filter housing (M272) or the oil filter itself (M276) opens and closes the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter housing. When you are unscrewing the cap the drainback valve is allowed to open (close?) and any oil in the filter housing and possibly the oil cooler rapidly drains back into the pan.

wgray105

I traded in my 2015 E350 for a 2017 E300. Both cars were (are) 4MATIC. The E300 has a smaller dip-stick tube, so it requires a smaller plastic oil-extraction tube. I get close to 7 quarts of oil extracted when I push the plastic tube in as far as it will go, but it takes a long time because of the small tube. But, I can live with that. It's easier than getting under the car to remove the plug. I haven't removed the plug after a vacuum extraction to see if there's any oil left. But, since the vacuum extraction removes close to 7 quarts, I figure that's good enough.

By the way, the 4-cylinder engine in this 2017 E300 out-performs the 6-cylinder engine in the previous car. Also, I purchased the extra air-suspension in the 2017 E300. Absolutely LOVE IT! It rides better than the 2015 and also handles better. That's contrary to my thinking that you trade softer ride for degraded performance. Not so in this case. I wouldn't buy another Mercedes without the air suspension.

jonUF02

Why you guys want to suck the oil out when it only takes a few minutes to pop the plug and be sure it drains out the bottom? I use extractor for my jet skis, because it's the only way. It's much slower than the time it takes to remove the plastic shield under a car.

wgray105

Well jonUFO2, when you suck it out, you don't have to drive the car up onto a rack, remove the plastic shield, and crawl under the car. Sucking it out may not even be slower, but it sure is a lot easier.

rocky raccoon

I hate myself when I do this but:

All MB engines are designed with the dipstick tube extending to the lowest point in the oil pan. There is no need and it is also counterproductive to insert a smaller diameter tube through the dipstick tube.
As some on this thread have said, you need only seal the MityVac tube to the TOP OF THE DIPSTICK TUBE.
It will pull all of the oil faster and more efficiently.
This is the way the dealer does it.

If you don't believe it, try this method next time then afterward crawl under the car and remove your drain plug. See what comes out. It will be zero and will make a believer of you.

OBW, loosen the top of your oil filter canister first. If you don't the oil in the filter canister will not drain into the crankcase. Oil temp is not critical. Warm is good, say 10 minutes of driving.

xsever

On my 4MATIC C300 W204, I used this method and still had 200 mL come out from the drain plug. This is due to the front axle going through the oil pan which makes it harder for ALL the oil to be sucked out from the top.

Arrie

Steveo1966

Hi All, I have been reading this thread with much interest, as well as monitoring a number of other threads on this topic on this and other forums for a few weeks now!

I am a recent new MB owner... picked up a CPO 2016 E250 Bluetec Diesel 4-matic in the summer, and am thinking about going back to doing my own oil changes.. mainly so that I know it is done with the right oil and right filter filter. Planning to use Liqu Moly and Mann filters. In any case, the old school guy in me prefers the conventional drain method, but access to the pan drain plug is a pain. Even with ramps, dropping the belly pans, with the car on ramps, it is no longer level. So am considering getting an extractor

1. Do you guys that do a DIY oil change conventionally in your home garage, put the car on 4 jack stands to keep it level for the draining?
2. Or is the drain plug at the rear of the oil pan on this bluetec diesel, making the angle on ramps a non issue??
3. Now, getting the car on ramps in the first place with the low front spoiler would seem a challenge in itself.. probably need some boards in front of the ramp to help with the process
4. I thought that the dealer extraction process (vaccum seal on the dipstick tube vs tube inserted into the dispstick to the bottom of the pan) was based on a "dealer quality commercial extractor" that I assumed created enough vaccum in the crankcase to draw out the oil?? In reading this thread, it sounds like it is simply using the fact that the dipstick tube goes down to the bottom of the pan. Can anyone confirm that is the case on my 2.1L bluetec engine (M651)??
5. Since I also have a 4-matic does it pose the same challenge with the front axle and the oil pan, thereby preventing a good drain using the extraction method? Can anyone comment on this based on the 2.1L bluetec diesel engine?

Thanks and sorry for the list of questions, However, I will say I have invested a number of hours reading this and other forums, trying to get some straight answers.

jonUF02

On my 550, I just jack up the left front corner and remove the plastic shield. The drain plug is at the inner rear of the pan, so the angle should actually help.

At least for my engine, Hengst is the OEM brand filter, Mann was on older models like my CLK430 but maybe others as well. I just pay the $30 for the MB box filter though I only do it once a year, because I drive less than 10k mi per year. Last time I bought a kit on Ebay, it has the filter, drain crush washer, and a bottle of window cleaner concentrate for about $32 I think.

nc211

Steveo1966

Thanks for the info.. I interpret your message to say "NOT" a big fan.

xsever

Oh wow! Thank you for sharing your findings on this. I'll give it a shot next time I do a change.