Vacuum Oil Extraction
This method has the added advantage of allowing a larger extraction tube, so it works faster.
I'm still curious, and will probably never know, why I wasn't able to make it work by putting an extraction tube down into the dip stick tube.




You drive the same car as I do so next time just for heck of it I'll try without the small tube going in the bottom of the engine.
It still don't explain why wgray105 could not pull oil out with the small tube all the way in unless the tube really never went all the way in...?
You drive the same car as I do so next time just for heck of it I'll try without the small tube going in the bottom of the engine.
It still don't explain why wgray105 could not pull oil out with the small tube all the way in unless the tube really never went all the way in...?
Do pull the filter first, at least loosen it. It will hold almost a full quart, so if you vacuum first and then release the filter, you miss that extra quart of dirty oil and will overfill if you just pour 8 quarts back in.




Do pull the filter first, at least loosen it. It will hold almost a full quart, so if you vacuum first and then release the filter, you miss that extra quart of dirty oil and will overfill if you just pour 8 quarts back in.
You must have a special huge oil filter as mine is so small it probably holds only a quart of a quart of oil and every time I opened it there was no oil in it.
What comes to the dip stick tube it may be that the tube extends to very close to the bottom of the oil pan in all of these cars. Then when you try pulling oil out with the small vacuum tube it pulls oil out until the oil flow thru the small gap between the dip stick tube end and oil pan bottom gets restricted enough so the vacuum tube starts sucking air that enters thru that dip stick tube. If you seal the top of the dip stick tube you get the whole effect of the vacuum, which helps getting more or all of the oil out. What restricts the oil flow is the viscosity of the not hot enough oil.
Above explains my experience when all oil did not come out when oil was not very hot. Every time since I heated the oil well I got all of the oil out with the skinny vacuum tube in the dip stick tube all the way in the bottom.
It makes a lot of sense if MB really built it this way. They do not need to take time to heat the oil when they extract it.
This also explains some weird oil level checks discussed under some other topics where dip stick first does not show oil level at the level it should be.
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Do pull the filter first, at least loosen it. It will hold almost a full quart, so if you vacuum first and then release the filter, you miss that extra quart of dirty oil and will overfill if you just pour 8 quarts back in.
Changed my oil a couple of weeks ago and this time I used the Mity-Vac connecting and sealing it to the top of the dip stick tube not using the skinny tube inside the dip stick tube. I got 4.5 quarts of oil out.
Connected the skinny tube as I normally do and inserted it all the way down inside the dip stick tube and got rest of the 9 quarts out.
Commented on the filter housing earlier already. My filter housing is 1/4 of the 1/4 qt in volume and when opening it there is only a tea spoon full of oil in it.
This what my friend who is an MB mechanic told me. He used to work for the dealership before opening his own shop.
This what my friend who is an MB mechanic told me. He used to work for the dealership before opening his own shop.
I'll probably alternate draining every other time.
By the way, the 4-cylinder engine in this 2017 E300 out-performs the 6-cylinder engine in the previous car. Also, I purchased the extra air-suspension in the 2017 E300. Absolutely LOVE IT! It rides better than the 2015 and also handles better. That's contrary to my thinking that you trade softer ride for degraded performance. Not so in this case. I wouldn't buy another Mercedes without the air suspension.
All MB engines are designed with the dipstick tube extending to the lowest point in the oil pan. There is no need and it is also counterproductive to insert a smaller diameter tube through the dipstick tube.
As some on this thread have said, you need only seal the MityVac tube to the TOP OF THE DIPSTICK TUBE.
It will pull all of the oil faster and more efficiently.
This is the way the dealer does it.
If you don't believe it, try this method next time then afterward crawl under the car and remove your drain plug. See what comes out. It will be zero and will make a believer of you.
OBW, loosen the top of your oil filter canister first. If you don't the oil in the filter canister will not drain into the crankcase. Oil temp is not critical. Warm is good, say 10 minutes of driving.
Last edited by rocky raccoon; Jan 17, 2019 at 04:31 PM.




All MB engines are designed with the dipstick tube extending to the lowest point in the oil pan. There is no need and it is also counterproductive to insert a smaller diameter tube through the dipstick tube.
As some on this thread have said, you need only seal the MityVac tube to the TOP OF THE DIPSTICK TUBE.
It will pull all of the oil faster and more efficiently.
This is the way the dealer does it.
If you don't believe it, try this method next time then afterward crawl under the car and remove your drain plug. See what comes out. It will be zero and will make a believer of you.
OBW, loosen the top of your oil filter canister first. If you don't the oil in the filter canister will not drain into the crankcase. Oil temp is not critical. Warm is good, say 10 minutes of driving.
I am a recent new MB owner... picked up a CPO 2016 E250 Bluetec Diesel 4-matic in the summer, and am thinking about going back to doing my own oil changes.. mainly so that I know it is done with the right oil and right filter filter. Planning to use Liqu Moly and Mann filters. In any case, the old school guy in me prefers the conventional drain method, but access to the pan drain plug is a pain. Even with ramps, dropping the belly pans, with the car on ramps, it is no longer level. So am considering getting an extractor
- Do you guys that do a DIY oil change conventionally in your home garage, put the car on 4 jack stands to keep it level for the draining?
- Or is the drain plug at the rear of the oil pan on this bluetec diesel, making the angle on ramps a non issue??
- Now, getting the car on ramps in the first place with the low front spoiler would seem a challenge in itself.. probably need some boards in front of the ramp to help with the process
- I thought that the dealer extraction process (vaccum seal on the dipstick tube vs tube inserted into the dispstick to the bottom of the pan) was based on a "dealer quality commercial extractor" that I assumed created enough vaccum in the crankcase to draw out the oil?? In reading this thread, it sounds like it is simply using the fact that the dipstick tube goes down to the bottom of the pan. Can anyone confirm that is the case on my 2.1L bluetec engine (M651)??
- Since I also have a 4-matic does it pose the same challenge with the front axle and the oil pan, thereby preventing a good drain using the extraction method? Can anyone comment on this based on the 2.1L bluetec diesel engine?
At least for my engine, Hengst is the OEM brand filter, Mann was on older models like my CLK430 but maybe others as well. I just pay the $30 for the MB box filter though I only do it once a year, because I drive less than 10k mi per year. Last time I bought a kit on Ebay, it has the filter, drain crush washer, and a bottle of window cleaner concentrate for about $32 I think.




Last edited by nc211; Jan 19, 2019 at 12:40 PM.
Last edited by Steveo1966; Jan 19, 2019 at 09:24 AM. Reason: added quote



