If there's anyone here who does their own services (religiously) do any of these common parts come in "kit form", like if I buy the tranny filter will it come with the pan gasket and copper ring for the plug? Same with fuel filter, if I buy that, will it come with the tank o-ring or do I need to plan all these parts out separately?

Question 2: Reading through the WIS, there's nowhere in the official M-B procedure for changing the fuel filter about depressurizing the fuel lines. Normally when I'd change a fuel filter on a fuel-injected car, I would pull the fuel pump relay, attempt to start the car to open all the injectors and take pressure off the line, before disconnecting the lines. However, the M-B WIS jumps right into pulling up the seat cushion and disconnecting the lines. Since I'm doing this inside the car I'd really prefer to not have a big spray of fuel all over when I pop the lines off. Thoughts?

Question 3: My car is a '14 E350 4Matic with the 7-speed. I believe I will need to pump the transmission fluid back into the car once I've drained it and changed the filter. What pump are you guys using? How exactly does this work? Do you measure out exactly the quantity you need and pump it all in? The WIS says something about pumping fluid in until it overflows from the drain plug, but you're pumping in through the drain plug and where else would it overflow from?

Question 4: When changing the brake fluid, I am assuming with the complexity of this brake system, it is best not to get any air in the lines in the first place? I.e. I'm thinking attach a line to the furthest bleeder, crack it, and keep the fluid level in the reservoir above the level it would suck air, and watch for clean fluid to come out. Then, do the same on the remaining 3 bleeders. Anyone bled brakes on these when there's been air in the system? Is it a pain?

Thanks guys!

Darel

 

I've done oil changes and brake bleeding on my 2010. Transmission service I would probably leave to a specialized indy shop since refilling the transmission to the correct level is not straightforward in the least. It is dependent on transmission temp and requires the star diagnostics which I don't have or plan to purchase.

What is the service interval on the fuel filter? I don't recall seeing it listed for the 40k b service? I wouldn't think there would be that much pressure on the line with the car off.

As for the brakes, I used a pressure bleeder that attaches to the top of the reservoir and pumped it up and then just cracked the bleed nipples till the clear fluid came out. I didn't use it to pump fluid into the reservoir, but just pressurize it. Doing that you may have to refill it once before all four wheels are done.

You didn't mention it, but I use the vacuum method to change oil via the dipstick tube. Much nicer than getting underneath the car.

'76 TR6? I always wanted one of those when I was a kid. I can imagine you have plenty of under hood time on that little beastie...

 

Your post got me curious about where the fuel filter is on this car. It's in the tank and can be accessed from inside the car. Now I get the reference to the fuel smell inside. Thats different from previous vehicles Ive worked on. But the service interval is very long, like 100k miles and the consensus seems to be if the car is running fine, leave it alone. That is the approach I would take, if you gotta wrench on something, Im sure the TR6 needs something to be fixed...

 

Replace the fuel filter every 150,000 miles or 15 years.

 

Thanks guys. I don't recall seeing anything about the STAR diagnostics in the trans fluid procedure in the WIS. I'll have to look closer at that one. That might be worth paying the $350 for the dealer to do it.

Good idea on the pressure bleeder. I have a MityVac but rarely get it to work.

Just looking ahead on that fuel filter but I didn't realize it was that far out. That's good, since it's $115.

I had planned on just draining out the oil like normal, although I do have a vacuum pump for charging A/C so it wouldn't be too hard to rig up a vac system.

Actually since I restored it four years ago the TR6 is the most reliable car I own (jury's still out on the W212...only had it a week).

 

This is how I pressurize the master cylinder:



Attachment to resevoir



This unit sucks out the oil through the dipstick. Works off compressed air, no hand pumping. Harbor Freight (Horror Fright) Special.

Pressure Bleeder



Oil suction device (HF)