A/C Blower Stopped Working
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 472
Likes: 8
From: Southern California, Orange County
2012 E350
A/C Blower Stopped Working
Hello all,
My A/C stopped working as in no air is coming out of the vents. Doesn't matter if I switch it to heat or A/C, there is just no air.
This happened once before a few weeks ago. I left my car out in the sun and it was pretty hot that day. When I started the car, no air was blowing. I started the car late in the evening that night and it suddenly started to work again.
Well until today, it stopped working again. This time I started my car in my garage which was around 70F, so it shouldn't be because of the high heat. I replugged the A/C motor and regulator underneath the passenger dash and it still doesn't work. I have no power source to connect the motor to a 12V DC, so I am not sure if it is the motor or regulator. My guess is the regulator because when the problem hit me last time, it worked again magically.
Did anybody come across this issue? I'm trying to narrow down which might be the issue as both the regulator and motor costs $300+ new.
Thank you!
My A/C stopped working as in no air is coming out of the vents. Doesn't matter if I switch it to heat or A/C, there is just no air.
This happened once before a few weeks ago. I left my car out in the sun and it was pretty hot that day. When I started the car, no air was blowing. I started the car late in the evening that night and it suddenly started to work again.
Well until today, it stopped working again. This time I started my car in my garage which was around 70F, so it shouldn't be because of the high heat. I replugged the A/C motor and regulator underneath the passenger dash and it still doesn't work. I have no power source to connect the motor to a 12V DC, so I am not sure if it is the motor or regulator. My guess is the regulator because when the problem hit me last time, it worked again magically.
Did anybody come across this issue? I'm trying to narrow down which might be the issue as both the regulator and motor costs $300+ new.
Thank you!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,107
Likes: 394
From: West Central Florida
2011 E550 P2 4M Sedan
I've seen threads on here about replacing the blower motor but none on the regulator yet. You've got a 12v source under your hood if you can get some electrical leads that are long enough and know the pin configuration. I might try a fresh 9v battery first but not sure it would push that blower motor - I've used that to test smaller 12v servo motors before. You could also use the 12v auxiliary battery in the driver side dash but those are a pain to get out IMO.
Not sure if the wiring in the same, but this write up suggests checking for power going to regulator and then for power from regulator to blower to narrow down the failed component. You'll need a multimeter.
Not sure if the wiring in the same, but this write up suggests checking for power going to regulator and then for power from regulator to blower to narrow down the failed component. You'll need a multimeter.
Last edited by thefisch; Jun 12, 2018 at 04:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 472
Likes: 8
From: Southern California, Orange County
2012 E350
I've seen threads on here about replacing the blower motor but none on the regulator yet. You've got a 12v source under your hood if you can get some electrical leads that are long enough and know the pin configuration. I might try a fresh 9v battery first but not sure it would push that blower motor - I've used that to test smaller 12v servo motors before. You could also use the 12v auxiliary battery in the driver side dash but those are a pain to get out IMO.
Not sure if the wiring in the same, but this write up suggests checking for power going to regulator and then for power from regulator to blower to narrow down the failed component. You'll need a multimeter.
Not sure if the wiring in the same, but this write up suggests checking for power going to regulator and then for power from regulator to blower to narrow down the failed component. You'll need a multimeter.
