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Hello everyone,
Currently at 97k. Few question about 100k.
I will be changing-
Transmission fluid- can a OBD scanner tell the tranny fuild temp.
Rearend Fluid- called dealers they have it at 37$. How much I need.
Power steering fluid- any DIY. How much fluid I need.
Brake fluid flush- what wheel sequence.
Any thing else I should service. I did not follow any service manual. So far did regular 11k oil changes, tranny fuild at 40k, spark plugs and brake fluid at 50k.
Tranny fluid - Some OBD scanners might show the temp, but not all. Best bet here is using a MB specific scan tool. I used a IR thermometer and a resistor probe thermometer ( the one that came with my Mastech multimeter - I tested both on boiling water, the IR one was 8C off, the Mastech one was 1C off )
Rear diff - I would get 2 bottles of MB hypoid gear oil,I don't know the exact quantity but I think it's between 1.2 and 1.6 liters.
Power steering - I used 1l of the MB specific Q13200001 fluid and it flushed all the old one and some. There's a clip on the return hose which connects to the bottom part of the PS fluid reservoir, you need to take it out ( I replaced mine with a screw on clamp style ) and remove the hose, place into a bottle and fill up the reservoir with new fluid, almost to the top. Then go into the car and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (make sure your wheels are off the ground, engine off, steering lock not engaged). Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't go lower than 25% - you do not want air in the lines! After a full lock to lock, add clean fluid again until the reservoir is almost full and repeat the later procedure until the fluid coming out of your return line is clean or until you will have used the whole 1l. When you're about done with this (fluid coming out of the return hose is clean) make sure you have the level at about 50% then reattach the hose, install new clamp or the old clip, carefully fill the reservoir until the specified level is reached ( you'll have hot and cold level readings reservoir cap's dipstick).
Bake flush - start with the rear right (the wheel furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir - on right hand side it's the rear right wheels which goes first depending on reservoir placement), then rear left, front right and lastly front left. Point of reference is looking at the car from behind. Use MB Dot4+ fluid, this service should be done every 2 to 3 years. I bought 2 bottles of fluid but I think one should be enough.
Additionally, I would check the PCV system for leaks or excessive wear (oil in the intake circuit - you can look for that underneath the MAF, before the throttle body by removing the breather hose that goes into the MAF body, coming from the oil breather cover) - if you have the M273 motor
Look for intake manifold gasket leaks - if you have the M273 motor
Check engine and transmission mounts ( sign of wear is vibration in the cabin at idle and/or while stopped in Drive)
Lubricate the pano roof or moonroof if you have it
Coolant should be replaced after 15yr or 150000 miles ( at least according to the MY2010 W212 maintenance manual)
I'll add stuff here if I remember it.
Good luck!
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Return hose with new clamp. Old one was a very annoying clip style
I would say no. It would be impossible to control the level as you feed fresh fluid into the reservoir, you will get air bubbles as the pump will drain the liquid faster than you could ever hope to put it in. I only suggest doing one lock to lock between each filling session, that way you know you're not emptying the entire reservoir. The whole procedure is finished after 4 to 6 repetitions of the fill - lock to lock maneuver.
you forgot about the fuel filter, not changing it WILL lead to premature fuel pump failure, pump has to work that much harder to pull fuel through restricted filter element. I have seen it happen at least 4-5 times so far on other 211 and 212 cars.
you forgot about the fuel filter, not changing it WILL lead to premature fuel pump failure, pump has to work that much harder to pull fuel through restricted filter element. I have seen it happen at least 4-5 times so far on other 211 and 212 cars.
Is it something that can be done as a DIY?
Didnt see too much posts about fuel filter replacement.
Tranny fluid - Some OBD scanners might show the temp, but not all. Best bet here is using a MB specific scan tool. I used a IR thermometer and a resistor probe thermometer ( the one that came with my Mastech multimeter - I tested both on boiling water, the IR one was 8C off, the Mastech one was 1C off )
Rear diff - I would get 2 bottles of MB hypoid gear oil,I don't know the exact quantity but I think it's between 1.2 and 1.6 liters.
Power steering - I used 1l of the MB specific Q13200001 fluid and it flushed all the old one and some. There's a clip on the return hose which connects to the bottom part of the PS fluid reservoir, you need to take it out ( I replaced mine with a screw on clamp style ) and remove the hose, place into a bottle and fill up the reservoir with new fluid, almost to the top. Then go into the car and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (make sure your wheels are off the ground, engine off, steering lock not engaged). Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't go lower than 25% - you do not want air in the lines! After a full lock to lock, add clean fluid again until the reservoir is almost full and repeat the later procedure until the fluid coming out of your return line is clean or until you will have used the whole 1l. When you're about done with this (fluid coming out of the return hose is clean) make sure you have the level at about 50% then reattach the hose, install new clamp or the old clip, carefully fill the reservoir until the specified level is reached ( you'll have hot and cold level readings reservoir cap's dipstick).
Bake flush - start with the rear right (the wheel furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir - on right hand side it's the rear right wheels which goes first depending on reservoir placement), then rear left, front right and lastly front left. Point of reference is looking at the car from behind. Use MB Dot4+ fluid, this service should be done every 2 to 3 years. I bought 2 bottles of fluid but I think one should be enough.
Additionally, I would check the PCV system for leaks or excessive wear (oil in the intake circuit - you can look for that underneath the MAF, before the throttle body by removing the breather hose that goes into the MAF body, coming from the oil breather cover) - if you have the M273 motor
Look for intake manifold gasket leaks - if you have the M273 motor
Check engine and transmission mounts ( sign of wear is vibration in the cabin at idle and/or while stopped in Drive)
Lubricate the pano roof or moonroof if you have it
Coolant should be replaced after 15yr or 150000 miles ( at least according to the MY2010 W212 maintenance manual)
I'll add stuff here if I remember it.
Good luck!
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Return hose with new clamp. Old one was a very annoying clip style
ODA you are the man! Great set of instructions. Love it when members are DIYers and share such great guidance. This should be a sticky along with your instructions on the motor mount change.
FYI - The power steering fluid is Pentosin CH11S made by CHF (says it right on the can) and can be purchased in a CHF green can for about half price at most auto parts stores.
It is used in the hydraulic ABC suspension in other MB cars, like my SL55, so I have used a lot of it.
If you are a DIY challenged, you can use the method above, except using a turkey baster.
Suck out the fluid from the reservoir with the baster, fill with new, crank the wheel, suck out old, repeat.
When it's all clean you are good to go.
FYI - The power steering fluid is Pentosin CH11S made by CHF (says it right on the can) and can be purchased in a CHF green can for about half price at most auto parts stores.
It is used in the hydraulic ABC suspension in other MB cars, like my SL55, so I have used a lot of it.
If you are a DIY challenged, you can use the method above, except using a turkey baster.
Suck out the fluid from the reservoir with the baster, fill with new, crank the wheel, suck out old, repeat.
When it's all clean you are good to go.
Thanks for the info on the oil, I didn't know the Pentosin was the same as the MB branded oil.
In regards to the turkey baster method I have 1 objection : W212s have a horizontal baffle 1 inch under the cap hole in the reservoir, that prevents the baster from reaching more than 1/3rd down into it. I know because that was the first method I tried and unfortunately it didn't work for me.
Not to derail this very useful thread, but I'm curious about long-term 3.5 liter durability and reliability if I'm going to keep my E350 for the long-haul. You see a bunch of older 320 and 350 E-classes on the road. If properly maintained and driven, are these 300k mile engines?
I did the rearend oil yesterday. Got the amg catback so, I had to drop the passenger side muffler because the 14mm socket didn't had enough clearance for the breaker bar to open drain plug. I let it drain overnight...man that crappy oil stinks. The whole garage stanky.
I put in about 1 bottle of oil. It's still not full. How much more it need. The oil was 40$ a bottle.
06-25-2018, 12:58 PM
