markgm

Does anyone have instructions or tips on replacing the starter on a 2010 E550 4matic? I'm planning to tackle this one myself if it's not too difficult. Thanks!

KEY08

konigstiger

markgm

Thanks for the documents.

markgm

For over a year my car would sometimes struggle to start. A few other people noted the same issue here; the starter will bog down for the first second, and then spin at a normal speed, but for three to six seconds before the engine finally starts. I contacted the local Mercedes dealership to get an estimate to replace the starter, and they wouldn’t give me one! They said they’d have to run diagnostics to confirm the issue is with the starter, and then (after I pay for the diagnostic), they would give me a quote to replace it. I couldn’t believe what I was hearing.

Next, I called an independent shop where I had taken the car to when I first got it to do a transmission fluid change. They not only wouldn’t give me an estimate to replace the starter, but actually argued on the phone with me that the issue I was explaining had nothing to do with the starter, and was probably something with the fuel pump. “Okay, but hypothetically, if you get it in the shop and determine it’s the starter, how much would it cost to replace it?” … they wouldn’t answer me.

At this point I was beyond a little annoyed, and figured I’d just live with the issue. A few months ago though I thought about the issue again, and decided to pick up a starter for around $80 online. Getting lucky, the day *after* I had just gotten back from the airport, the car wouldn’t start. This time it seemed like it was the battery, as it started up when I jumped it. Still, I knew I was on borrowed time, so I started to look around for a place that could replace the starter. In the meantime I replaced the battery, and the starter worked fine…for a week!

A week after changing the battery (and the local auto parts store testing the starter and alternator, saying both were fine) the car was dead in my garage. The cheapest quote I could get to replace the starter was over $900, so I decided to do it myself. If you made it that far, here’s how it went!

To start off with, I hate heights and going under cars. I couldn’t think of a good way to jack the car up and feel safe under it, so I ordered a set of QuickJacks. They took about 2 weeks to arrive. Once assembled, the car was up in the air and amazingly stable. Here is how to replace the starter on a 2010 E550 with 4matic.



To start the repair, I removed the screws holding on the center and rear panels under the car (12 screws I believe). Next up was to remove the left part of the exhaust. I started by unplugging the connectors holding on the O2 sensors. I removed the lower O2 sensor (black cord), but was able to leave the upper (green cord) in place. Then I removed the 2 nuts holding the exhaust to the bracket that connects to the car, and the 2 bolts connecting the bracket to the car. I removed the bracket. Using two extension bars I was able to remove the upper bolt, and I needed to add a universal joint to remove the lower bolt.









Moving halfway down the car, I had to remove the bolt holding the exhaust pipes together. Mine was a giant ball of rust that no amount of penetrating oil was going to free, so I gave it some torque and broke the head off of the bolt. It’s now possible to break the exhaust parts apart, but there’s not enough room to get the front of the exhaust out of the engine compartment. There is an aluminum bar that runs mid-way across the car. Two of the screws were hidden on mine (you can get the bit in there, but you can’t remove the bolt). I used a hole-saw to enlarge the hole in the undercarriage paneling, and then I was able to unscrew the 4 bolts and 2 plastic clips. I removed one of the plastic washers to the back right of the bar to allow me to slide it sideways and out of the way of the exhaust. With this out of the way it’s now possible to drop the left part of the exhaust.











You can now see the ground wire for the starter, and can remove it. I then removed the two bolts holding the starter to the car, and was able to rotate the starter behind the steering column so that I could remove the black plastic cap over the positive wire, and remove that nut. With both wires removed, the starter can now be pulled out of the space where the exhaust was.







Installation was the opposite of removal. Put the starter back over the steering column, attach the positive lead, put on the protective cap, move the starter back into place, connect the ground wire, and then tighten the two bolts holding the starter in place. Reattaching the exhaust probably takes the most time. Slide the front part in, being careful not to damage the O2 sensor. Then lift the rear part of the exhaust into place and slide the aluminum bar back into place to support the weight of the exhaust.



I used a jack stand to line up the front part of the exhaust with the exhaust manifold, and then spent more minutes than I care to admit trying to line up the bracket and the bolt. I then reattached the rubber mounted bracket to the car, attached it to the exhaust, and tightened everything up. Last was to reconnect the connectors for the O2 sensors, and reinstall the panels (rear first, then the center).

Sure I spent more doing this myself because I bought the QuickJacks, but now I have them if another repair comes up (plus they will make brakes a lot easier in the future). I also felt good not giving any shop business that won’t provide a quote for a repair when asked for one. I should also add, the car now starts like it has never started before!

Once the new starter was in, I took the old one apart. Aside from something rattling inside, I discovered that three of the four brushes were non-existent. It also smelled like burnt electronics. I hope this helps someone else thinking about tackling the job. Also, make sure you pay attention to the starter you get, it appears the starter is on different sides of the car depending on the configuration.

Oda112

Good job, thanks for the info!
I did some research and MB sells a rebuild kit https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts...UtNWwtdjgtZ2Fz
Do you think yours could work if the brushes are replaced? Did the armature have any physical damage?

markgm

I didn't see any damage above the wear shown in the pictures, but for $25 more after shipping, I felt better replacing the entire unit with a new one. I'm sure it would take a little bit of time to clean out all of the gunk stuck to the magnets.

hafferf

Not trying to hijack this thread.... but are these from those cd's on ebay??.... I bought them, but can't get them to download correctly. They were supposed to be sent to me, but none ever arrived.... ;>(((, only a download URL.....
Thank you
Fred

konigstiger

I post part captures from MBUSA EPC.

Oda112

What did you replace these bolts with? I've been looking for the exact ones for months now and I can't find them.

markgm

I didn't bother replacing them. I was able to extract the bolt from the cylinder and then just replace the bolt with one a bit smaller, and put a nut on the other end. You should be able to see it in one of my pictures before cutting off the excess length.

Oda112

Ok. I might just manufacture something, mine are very corroded and wouldn't fit back properly. It's weird MB doesn't sell these things. King, any thoughts?

Arrie

I'm having issues with my starter after 162000 miles. Kind of soon as my miles are 80%--85% highway so I don't get that many stars but it is acting up so I ordered a Bosch starter from AutoZone.

Mt question is - What is the socket for the two bolts holding the starter. In pictures they look like some sort of star...

markgm

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...set-67898.html

Arrie

Thanks!!

FireRx Captain

This is why I'm concern about the advent of ECO mode on the newer vehicles. All that start and stopping will wear the bushes ans bits unnecessarily in the Starter motor. I turn it off when I drive the car. the Mrs leaves it on.

Arrie

Today replaced the starter on my 2010 E550 RWD.

I did NOT need to remove the exhaust or heat shield or engine mount. I did need to remove the exhaust support bracket that connects between the left and right sides.

Of course, I had to remove the two pieces of covers under the car.

I had some trouble with removing the old starter because I did not disconnect the wires first. Could not see the main power connection as it had a black plastic cover over the nut. I worked the starter upside-down to get to the connections but when installing the new starter it went in very easily as I installed it before connecting the wires.

I bought the female TORX socket set what markgm suggested and the correct socket was the second biggest one. Forgot to look what size it is.

Also need to have a universal joint and 2 1/2 ft extensions to be able to correctly align the ratchet at the side of the gear box to be able to loosen and then re-torque the two bolts.

Took most of the day as first I had to build a foot tall ramp to drive the car on. The repair itself was about 3 hours as I had to learn it but if I did it the second time it would probably be less that 2 hours.

The new starter is Duralast Gold from AutoZone that is NOT Bosch as I mentioned in my previous post. It is a Bosch TYPE made to fit this car. The electric motor part on it is 15 mm longer than the old one but it fit in just fine.

Motor cost about $315 after they returned the $40 core charge.

Amazing difference in car starting. Really made a huge improvement.

Add-on:
The starter is by DV Electronics. It has life time warranty as Duralast Gold products do.

RDE38

Great information here. I replaced my starter in my 2011 E550 and used this thread. I used the star bits mentioned and also did not have to remove any exhaust or engine mounts. Pretty straight forward. A split-ring 13mm wrench worked well for the top electrical nut.