Tklisz

konigstiger

DOT 4 plus, Specification 331.0 - cross reference part 0009890807. See attachments.

mercerized

Thanks konigstiger.

Got my MB EPC CDs and have not figured out how to print off work instructions.
Plan to R&R my brake fluid this weekend.

I have a liter of ATE Brake Fluid; SuperGold Dot 4, Type 200 that I would like to use.
Anyone disagree with using ATE type 200 or should I go with MB ?

cetialpha5

I've used Pentosin Super Dot 4 in the past and it looks like ATE type 200 has a higher wet/dry boiling point than Pentosin so I guess it should be good. Pentosin is about $14 a quart at Advance Auto and the last time I used a 30% off coupon code so it a little under $10 for a quart. The best code they have now is about 25% off.

mercerized

According to the pdfs, a w212 should take 0.6 liters.

Anyone have an estimate for a s212 (wagon) ?

christsay

I installed Cute PDF Writer in the VM that I run the WIS/EPC in and just print to the PDF printer that it installs.

The wagon probably takes a similar amount of brake fluid. When I did new rotors and pads this weekend on my '14 AMG wagon I did passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, then drivers front with a Motive pressure bleeder.

-chris

mercerized

Planning to bleed the old fashion way, with my son on the pedal and in the same order as you write.

aquinob

I also used the pentosin dot 4 plus from Advance. Cheaper than the MB fluid and much closer trip to boot. The quart/liter bottle should be enough to flush it out. I used the vac bleeder that looks like a garden sprayer to pressurize the master cylinder and then went around to each wheel and bled off each line. Bleed off the passenger side rear first and do it the longest so you get all the old fluid out through that line. You can either siphon out the old fluid from the master cylinder first or just bleed it way down and then fill it up with fresh and do it again.



Pressure Bleeder

christsay

The power bleeder is a revelation. No more finding a 2nd person and coordinating "down", "up", "down", "up". I've had one for ~10 years now, after about 6 years the plastic tubing can degrade and spray brake fluid everywhere so just take look at the tubing before you pressurize and don't use it if it's discolored or feels weird.

An alternative is to do it like aquinob and run it 'dry'. I will top off the reservoir to beyond max, attach the bleeder and pressurize, then bleed one wheel. I'll pop my head up to make sure the reservoir still has fluid and top off if necessary before moving to the next wheel. The advantage of this is if the hose does burst it's just air and also you don't have to clean out the pressure bleeder after you are done with denatured alcohol.

-chris

mercerized

Completed the fluid replacement with no complications. Used about 800 mL of ATE type 200

mercerized

Can anyone post the MB spec sheet 331.1 ?

cetialpha5

Well for MB spec sheets go to this site, they list them all. As for those brake fluids, there's only one on the list!

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoli...ets-sort1.html

mercerized

Thank you for that link.
In addition, the trade name for Safe 10 M is ATE type 200
MB 331.1 = Safebrake 10 M = ATE DOT 4 TYP 200 brake fluid

http://images.imcparts.net/shared/do...ype_200_en.pdf

belarus27

Can someone PLEASE post some basic steps in order on how to do it properly? Im gonna be doing this DIY soon , after i buy the power bleeder and would like to know the procedure.
do i put new fluid in to the bleeder or in the brake reservoir? Or both ? How much fluid i need to get (i read somewhere about 2 liters)
I know there are videos and posts on google.. but instead of putting all the info together i thought maybe you guys can give me an idea.
this is gonna be my first time so please be patient lol
thank you

p.s. looks pretty straight forward besides some steps

christsay

I would run the power bleeder dry as long as you keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the reservoir to make sure you don't push air into the master cylinder.

Raise car at wheel you are going to bleed. Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear, Passenger Front, Drivers Front.
Top off brake fluid reservoir to max (or more...) taking care not to spill. Optionally to save time use a turkey baster or syringe to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir and fill with new fluid.
Attach power bleeder and pressurize to 20 psi (mid way on the gauge).

Go to caliper to be bled and attach catch hose and container.
Open bleeder valve with 11mm flare nut or the closed end of the wrench to minimize chance of rounding off the valve.
Wait.... optionally tap the caliper with a rubber mallet.
MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE RESERVOIR. If it runs low close the bleeder valve, depressurize the motive, remove motive, re-fill reservoir with fresh fluid.
When fluid runs clear at caliper close the bleeder valve and move on to the next wheel.
MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE RESERVOIR.

When done just disconnect the bleeder, make sure the reservoir is full, and put the cap back on.

By running dry you don't have to worry about a motive hose leaking and spewing pressurized brake fluid all over your engine bay, fender, and hood. However you do need to keep an eye on the reservoir. If you run the bleeder with fluid just make sure you empty and clean after use.

-chris

belarus27

perfect!!!!! Appreciate it.

everything is straight forward . One question tho
on the paragraph above ^
top off brake fluid reservoir with new fluid obviously right? Right after i suck out as much fluid from the reservoir first?
suck out , top off , pressurize , bleed pretty much?

christsay

Yeah, it just saves you time. Instead of pushing all the old fluid in the reservoir through the lines suck out the old and replace with new and then the fresh fluid will get through the system faster.

If you do end up pushing air through the master cylinder you may become very sad, I'm not sure if the MC on our cars can be bleed while in the car or requires to be removed and bench bled if air gets into it.

-chris