The hardest part of the DIY is putting the seal back on due to limited access to the hole. Large socket with hammer didn't work for me since there is a bar in front of the hole. It took me 45 mins to get the old seal off then another 4-5 hours to retry with large socket and finally build a tool to install the seal back on. I am sharing some tips to help anyone who wants to DIY this job.

right side seal part# 0139971946
List of tools:


support the car with stands
remove splash under the car by 8mm
remove the wheel by 17mm then install 1-2 bolts back on without the wheel
pry the axle nut cover off then remove the nut by 19mm
put the nut back on just a few threads then hammer the outer axle off the hub
remove the lower backward control arm ball joint bolt by 21mm
extract the ball joint by a small puller
pull the disk out/forward to get the outer axle out then hold/hang it by something
pop the inner axle out from under the car by a pry bar -- you need something like what is in the pic for the angle and thickness due to limited access via the frame under the car
remove the drain bolt by 6mm hex and drain the oil



take the axle off
refill 0.6L 75W90 oil with hand pump via the axle hole
remove the old seal by a small screw driver
clean up for seal pre-installation
place the new seal onto the hold the press it by the wooden tool then hammer it in
lub/clean the conact point of seal/alxe
put everything back at reverse order


This is the home made tool likes like. It's made by 4*4. Spec is: 3.5*3.5" base, 2" base hole, 5" arm.
I couldn't install the seal without it.

 

That is one good job, especially making the wooden buck to install the seal. I hope I never have to do this but your info will be invaluable for anyone tackling this job.

 

Just had this done on my car. A few other notes, the bolt holding the CV joint in is an external Torx, so it's an E24 socket.

Mechanic had a 5 pound slide hammer with a hook on it and that was used to pull the CV joint out and also remove the old seal.



Didn't do the ball joint, just undid the bolts holding in the strut. Doesn't seem to have affected the alignment, but I have a 3 year alignment warranty anyway. Putting in the seal wasn't too bad, just tapped it in using a 1/2 inch extension bar, a really long one must have been over 12 inches.

More than .6 quarts of fluid came out. Maybe it was overfilled at the factory or the previous owner had it changed and someone put in too much.

Done in slightly less than 2 hours.

 

What was wrong that made you replace it?

 

What a job! I did a visual inspection of my drivetrain and suspension when I changed my tires and wheels over for winter last week and noticed some oil on the inner front passenger axle so I think I am looking at the same issue. I'm hoping this is covered by the CPO warranty just before it expires. The soonest I can get into the dealership is next month.

 

As mentioned above, there was some seepage from the axle seal. The old one didn't look that bad. Basically some dirt and grease underneath it and also a layer of grime/grease on the joint. Cleaned it all off and will inspect it later to make sure it's still good.