First Transfer Case, Now Car Shudders Upon Acceleration
#1
First Transfer Case, Now Car Shudders Upon Acceleration
I have 2014 E350 4matic that had a bad transfer case on it replaced by the dealership about 5 months ago. Although out of warranty, the dealership and MBUSA really stepped up and helped out with the cost. Now I've noticed that the car shudders (almost like going over a rumble strip) when I accelerate at around 65-70 mph. If it's a subtle acceleration, then it does not shudder, but if I press the pedal a little harder, like I am going to pass somebody, then it shudders. The shudder does stop when you stop accelerating.
I've read a number of posts on here that deal with this issue and it seems that people have been told everything from out-of-balance tires to a torque converter to a solenoid. I'm still trying to learn about all this, but my question is - is it possible that any of this is related to the replaced transfer case and therefore hopefully covered under that warranty or is it likely a new problem, which puts me SOL.
I've had the car for less than a year and have already replaced the water pump and the transfer case. Hoping this is something small because I do love this car and sure hope I didn't get a lemon.
Thanks for your help!
I've read a number of posts on here that deal with this issue and it seems that people have been told everything from out-of-balance tires to a torque converter to a solenoid. I'm still trying to learn about all this, but my question is - is it possible that any of this is related to the replaced transfer case and therefore hopefully covered under that warranty or is it likely a new problem, which puts me SOL.
I've had the car for less than a year and have already replaced the water pump and the transfer case. Hoping this is something small because I do love this car and sure hope I didn't get a lemon.
Thanks for your help!
#2
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
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'71 Pinto
Have the dealer revisit repair. If related to TC, repair is free. If not, diagnostics inclusive of fault codes should be free as they need to identify what is wrong to prove if it is related or not. You now have the choice of having dealer repair, DIY, or independent repair.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Have them check the driveshaft flex disc at each end for wear. These usually have a long life, but when worn they can cause vibration that you are describing under hard acceleration. I doubt there is any issue with your transmission after being replaced. The transmission and transfer case are co-joined in these later models and I assume they dropped in a whole new transmission for you.
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KEY08 (10-30-2018)
#6
Senior Member
I have had the exact same issue. My car was on original factory fluid at 80K miles. I took the valve body apart, cleaned out all of the solenoids, solenoid B2 was filled with metal fuzz, removed all of it with a magnet, did a complete flush of the tranny, torque converter and cooler, and now the car is back to 100% operation.
When was your transmission fluid changed last?
When was your transmission fluid changed last?
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#9
I believe they would still have to drop the whole transmission to get to transfer case, right? Maybe something got jacked up in there when they replaced TC? But the whole transmission was definitely not replaced.
#10
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Read this thread in its entirety: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...nsmission.html see attachment for referenced bulletin.
#11
Thanks for the heads up on that. So it appears by that bulletin, they followed proper protocol by just replacing TC? Also, the shudder I had before the TC was replaced happened when slowly cornering. Now it is on hard acceleration.
#12
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I would push for complete transmission replacement if in fact it is found to be related to TC repair. Read the details of all GregTR's posts in link provided.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Make sure your tires are at correct pressures to keep the tires at correct diameter. I assume you have not done any staggered wheel setup?
There are discussions about this locking disk problems in this forum. Some have suggested doing and done a wear in for the lock by jacking one wheel up and running the car with gear on for some 30 seconds or so that causes the locking disk to wear or clean up.
#16
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2014 E350 4M Diamond Silver
I just got staggered setup on my 2014 4matic just yesterday. I know lots of people did that in the past, so, I bit the bullet.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you use the staggered setup that MB use for the RWD the front tires are 245/40 R18 and rear are 265/35 R18. The tire diameter for front is 653.2 mm while for the rear it is 642.7 mm. This means your rear axle speed is 98.4% of the front or the front is 1.6% faster than rear.
What the above means is that when you drive on dry pavement the speed difference between the axles makes the center differential to slip at all times and causes wear to the locking disk.
On slippery surface the problem can be more serious. If the grip under wheels is not good enough the disk will NOT slip and forces the tires to slip against the driving surface, i.e. you loose some of the benefit 4-Matic is supposed to provide against the slippery surface.
#19
Finally heard back from the dealership. They said it’s the Torque Converter. They gave me 2 options. Replace the solenoids for 1200, which has 50/50 chance of correcting the problem. Or replace the torque converter for around 5200.
#20
Senior Member
a solenoid is $90 from MB ($45 if you get it from Mopar) and a torque converter is $790, again factory units from MB, where the hell are they getting these prices from???? A 650% markup is a crime, or at least should be.
https://www.oembenzparts.com/oem-par...oid-2202770998
https://www.oembenzparts.com/oem-par...IFJlc3VsdHM%3D
The reason I know these prices is because I was suspecting the same parts to be the issue on my car as I had the exact same symptoms as you, albeit I immediately stopped driving the car and cleaned the solenoids and replaced the fluid. Did not replace the converter only drained it of fluid at time of flush. It's been now 4 months and 6k miles since, car is still 100%, with zero 4rd gear shuddering and 7th gear drunk bumps effect, even when towing.
https://www.oembenzparts.com/oem-par...oid-2202770998
https://www.oembenzparts.com/oem-par...IFJlc3VsdHM%3D
The reason I know these prices is because I was suspecting the same parts to be the issue on my car as I had the exact same symptoms as you, albeit I immediately stopped driving the car and cleaned the solenoids and replaced the fluid. Did not replace the converter only drained it of fluid at time of flush. It's been now 4 months and 6k miles since, car is still 100%, with zero 4rd gear shuddering and 7th gear drunk bumps effect, even when towing.
#21
Super Member
I had a shuddering in my car when I first got it. A complete transmission fluid change including draining the torque converter solved the issue. I'ts been vibration free for almost 40K miles since the fluid change.