E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

2011 E550 - Starter + Coil Issue WTF

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Old 11-16-2018, 10:14 PM
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2011 E550, 2018 Land Cruiser, 1966 Vette
2011 E550 - Starter + Coil Issue WTF

Have a 2011 E550, purchased new Spring 2011, wife's DD, 40K miles, always serviced on time at selling dealer, out of extended warranty 6 months ago.

She drove off the other evening heading to class she teaches about 5 miles away. She calls me and says the engine suddenly started running rough and a light, probably CEL, is flashing intermittently. She says she's halfway there and opts to continue rather than return. Once she arrives the car dies in the parking lot and won't even crank.

I called the dealer and head over to meet the tow truck. Both the tow driver and I smell a burning odor emanating from the passenger side engine but cannot see anything. Car indeed does not crank.

Dealer calls today to say the #1 cylinder "misfired" and shorted and burned the coil pack, hence the burn smell. Repair is $582. When asked what caused this, the reply is "misfires can happen randomly". Plugs were replaced at the last service in April btw.

As for engine no-crank, dealer says starter is gone and quotes $1500 to replace with a reman unit. Apparently not related to the misfire/coil pack issue.

They also recommend "fuel injector cleaning" for an additional $183.

Total cost to fix is $2165.

My gut is screaming BS; it just seems odd these two issues popped up simultaneously. I of course could have it towed elsewhere for a 2nd opinion in that we can get along just fine with my truck as our only vehicle.

What do you think? Bite the bullet and fix it or go elsewhere? The car has been great to this point, never any issues save for a repair to the air suspension under warranty when 6 months old. We plan on keeping it for a while longer. I just dont know that I trust our dealer any longer.
Old 11-17-2018, 09:55 AM
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Mud
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Well, first, I can't see the injector cleaning service as being needed. It's usually running something like BG 44k through the fuel rail, not removing the injectors, screens etc. If you use a good tier gasoline the injectors are probably fine. If you're going to clean anything, clean the throttle body as it pulls in oil vapors from the pcv system and gets dirty over time. But that's more involved and more expensive. So I think just leave all that stuff alone, injector service is usually easy profit line for the shop.

Coil packs can randomly go out, I've had that happen. But sometimes it's the connector boot that shorts out, causing the misfire.

I agree that's a lot of coincidence but from this perspective I can't say either way about the starter. I wonder if a starter wire got shorted out for some reason and then killed the starter. The car dying seems a bit odd - most engines will continue to run (roughly) if one coil pack is disconnected.

That's a lot of money for one coil pack and rebuilt starter replacement. Are you able to DIY the work or maybe you don't want to mess with it. In that case you're indeed stuck at the dealer or as you said get it towed to another shop. But then theres 2 tow costs plus whatever the second shop comes up with. Of course you want that indy shop to be qualified to work on your car. I don't have a 550 so I don't know difficulty of starter replacement. But my own view is I'm also suspicious of the circumstances from your description and the proposed fixes.

Last edited by Mud; 11-17-2018 at 10:02 AM.
Old 11-17-2018, 11:20 AM
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Originally Posted by fingroupb
Have a 2011 E550, purchased new Spring 2011, wife's DD, 40K miles, always serviced on time at selling dealer, out of extended warranty 6 months ago.

She drove off the other evening heading to class she teaches about 5 miles away. She calls me and says the engine suddenly started running rough and a light, probably CEL, is flashing intermittently. She says she's halfway there and opts to continue rather than return. Once she arrives the car dies in the parking lot and won't even crank.

I called the dealer and head over to meet the tow truck. Both the tow driver and I smell a burning odor emanating from the passenger side engine but cannot see anything. Car indeed does not crank.

Dealer calls today to say the #1 cylinder "misfired" and shorted and burned the coil pack, hence the burn smell. Repair is $582. When asked what caused this, the reply is "misfires can happen randomly". Plugs were replaced at the last service in April btw.

As for engine no-crank, dealer says starter is gone and quotes $1500 to replace with a reman unit. Apparently not related to the misfire/coil pack issue.

They also recommend "fuel injector cleaning" for an additional $183.

Total cost to fix is $2165.

My gut is screaming BS; it just seems odd these two issues popped up simultaneously. I of course could have it towed elsewhere for a 2nd opinion in that we can get along just fine with my truck as our only vehicle.

What do you think? Bite the bullet and fix it or go elsewhere? The car has been great to this point, never any issues save for a repair to the air suspension under warranty when 6 months old. We plan on keeping it for a while longer. I just dont know that I trust our dealer any longer.
Well, I don't know how much the coil pack cost but to change one is a super easy job. Take the intake air box off the engine and then it is one screw and the wire harness to disconnect / connect to change the pack. If it is just the coil pack then I would just buy the part and change it myself.

This job is way over priced just like spark plug change. Looking under the hood can look very intimidating for people who are not that hands-on but after that air box is removed it is all there. I changed spark plugs and for that, of course, had to remove each coil pack.

For the starter I think some of the exhaust piping has to be removed for access to the starter so this will be time consuming. I asked for a starter quote once and it was $650 for the part so with probably 5 hours of labor that starter job may not be that badly priced and for an indy to do it they would still charge nearly same hourly rate and the part will probably be from MB.

I would do the coil pack myself and leave the starter job for the dealer.

Update:
Looked at three parts sites konigstiger listed in another post. For my car, which is a 2010 E550, the ignition coil pack goes for $53 at parts.com, $54 at MBdirect and $30 at FCP Euro. At the dealer it probably is around $100. The dealer charging $582 for the coil pack change is absolute rip off if it indeed is just the coil pack change.

Your car is 2011 model but I think it is exactly the same engine as mine in the 2010 model.

Last edited by Arrie; 11-17-2018 at 11:35 AM.
Old 11-17-2018, 04:58 PM
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Thanks for the replys guys. I think I'm just gonna have them do it minus of course the FI "cleaning". I figure it's already there and diagnosed -- and with the holidays upon us I just don't have the bandwidth to do anything else. *sigh* I just hate getting a shellacking.
Old 11-17-2018, 05:02 PM
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If you plan on keeping the car for awhile you need to find a good Indy mechanic.
The stealership will bleed you dry.
Old 11-17-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bahnstormer
If you plan on keeping the car for awhile you need to find a good Indy mechanic.
The stealership will bleed you dry.
On the other hand, a couple $k fix on a car every so often is not that bad comparing to the other option, which is spending a lot more for a new or different car. I have nearly 160000 miles on mine and plan on keeping it as long as it can reasonably be fixed. This means even replacing tranny or the engine. My car has everything I need from a car so why spend lots of money to get a new one, which is not better other than for the electronic gizmos that I don’t play with anyway...
Old 11-17-2018, 08:20 PM
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That’s one heck of a warranty period and I hope the cost was beneficial. You are in a real pickle and it’s not like you can walk into the shop with a coil pack in your hand and install it. The starter replacement on these cars is not simple and involves removing the exhaust if I remember correctly. The thing is you need the diagnosis to be correct and this work to allow you to drive it out. My fear is this big estimate may grow even larger if they missed part of the issue causing your breakdown. I wish you well.
Old 11-17-2018, 11:41 PM
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Well Key the warranty cost was beneficial only for peace of mind in that we never had to use it. And you're right, diagnostics is the nut here as I simply don't have the tools, electronics, manuals etc at home to be competent to do that. Can I replace the coil pack and even the starter in my garage? Sure I have no doubt -- once the diagnosis is made. But when your wife is stranded and you've got to work the next day the decision to have it towed to the dealer makes sense. I too hope the diagnosis is correct and complete.

I'm with ya Arrie on the repair cost vs new. We tend to keep our cars for 10 - 15 years. If this is the only hiccup that's not too bad. Time will tell.
Old 11-18-2018, 01:51 AM
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Don't forget the $150 off $300+ in service that I just posted earlier. But if I were you, I'd just take it to an indy. The Bosch starter is $100-165 online from Rockauto, but even Autozone carries it locally and a new one lists for $200 and after a 20% discount code it's $160. Looks pretty much the same as any starter I've seen. Those sites claim Bosch is the OE for the starter which makes sense as Bosch makes lots of electrical parts.

I wonder if the short killed the battery somehow and that's why it doesn't crank. Maybe have them change the coil pack and check the charging system to make sure it's fine before replacing the starter if there's no crank.
Old 11-20-2018, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cetialpha5
Don't forget the $150 off $300+ in service that I just posted earlier. But if I were you, I'd just take it to an indy. The Bosch starter is $100-165 online from Rockauto, but even Autozone carries it locally and a new one lists for $200 and after a 20% discount code it's $160. Looks pretty much the same as any starter I've seen. Those sites claim Bosch is the OE for the starter which makes sense as Bosch makes lots of electrical parts.

I wonder if the short killed the battery somehow and that's why it doesn't crank. Maybe have them change the coil pack and check the charging system to make sure it's fine before replacing the starter if there's no crank.
Agreed. That sounds like the most reasonable first step. If it hadn't been towed to the shop and 'diagnosed' by them, I'd say, change the coil pack yourself and see where you are, but since it's there and they will charge for the diagnosis, have them at least do the coil pack.

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