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E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

Greetings From DFW METROPLEX

 
Old 01-15-2019, 07:13 PM
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2011 E350
Greetings From DFW METROPLEX

Greetings, just purchased a 2011 E350. Didn't say it in the ad but appears to be the AMG sport package, wheels at least. 265/35R/18 rear and 245/40R/18 Front. The only major hit on the inspection was the paddle shifter (-) was broken off. Dealer agreed to replace. Alignment seemed fine, drivability was fine. Everything electrical seemed to work I ran everything I could, stereo, navigation, windows, lights, moonroof, Just turned over to 96K during the last day or two. The only major mechanical item I see of note was the Transmission filter and fluid was changed around 30K. I don't see any record of it being changed since then but not to say it wasn't. Erring on the side of caution I will probably have it changed soon but not a immediate rush. Tires seem decent for 96K but again probably some new sneakers for summer, Either Michelin Pilot Sports or Pirelli Cintaurato P7 A/S.

High mileage aside is there anything specific I should be on the lookout for? Everything seems to work, I didn't notice any codes, leaks, ride was smooth and quiet. Assuming dealer did minimal work to get ready for sale, is there anything I should be paying specific attention too?

Quick Summary, Silver, Black interior, appears to be the MB Tex Leather but no tears. A good coating of Mequiar's conditioner/cleaner wouldn't hurt but not a big deal. Camera and Navigation, two of my major highlights. According to local and internet chat I have the NTG4-212-V18.0 which appears to be self install version. Question will the NAV update apply to just the NAV or the Entire COMAND system as in includes a software update AND NAV?

Should have in possession in a couple of days, they are fixing the paddle shifter prior to delivery. European car background, I came from a Volvo XC90, Audi and BMW. Of the three the CX90 lasted the longest. Between the Audi and BMW the Audi was the better of the two but not by much. I might have gotten a bad one and threw out with the bathwater but starting over again with Mercedes. I was looking for a balance between, condition, price, mileage, and value. Hopefully I found it, seems to be a good start.

Hope to learn and share information as I go along.
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:50 PM
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A few basic questions that since I am a nugget I can probably get away with for a few weeks at least.

1. Is there more to a AMG sport package besides the wheels (offset rear.) I am guessing different rear axle ratio due to the offset tires but just wondering. Is there anything else? I am guessing since it is not a full AMG my guess is the VIN decoder would show as a E350 normal is there VIN decoder for E350 SPORT?

2. What major items maintenance wise I should be on the lookout for in the coming mileage. Coming up on 100K Looks like Oil Change is fresh, I am thinking major items, like, Water Pump, Belts, Fluids, etc... I can handle filters in fact I am expecting since there is no record of recent replacement I am planning on changing the basic items for used vehicle purchase.

A. Cabin Air Filter,
B. Engine Air Filter,
C. Spark Plugs,
D. Transmission fluid and filter but not immediate.
E. Cooling system flush although might be good as time as any for water pump and thermostat and of course probably Serpentine Belt and Tensioner. Since no recent record of replacement getting a good baseline.

Anything wrong with my logic or am I getting too paranoid?
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:32 AM
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2016 E350 Sport... 2001 C320 Avant Garde...
Greets from the DFW area. You should acquire a Data Card for your car. It will answer many of your questions.

There are several sources from which to pull your build data. Here is one... https://www.datamb.com/
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Old 01-16-2019, 09:14 AM
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2011 E-350 4Matic Sport
Check the fluid filled engine/transmission mounts, they are prone to early failure. My 2011 has new mounts at current 54k miles. Engine mounts are a chore, if the mounts are collapsed get the dealer to do them before you buy.
Check the pcv oil separator located rear of passenger side cylinder head, if there is oil in the throttle body tube, or if the unit is seeping oil, replace the separator.
Good time to check brakes and flush brake fluid.
Also good time to spray clean MAF sensor in throttle body.
Look up intake flaps, these can jam or the vacuum pivot can break. Thus is more for info than having to do anything right now.
General preference on plugs is NGK Laser Platinum Plug PLKR7A, preferred over oem Bosch plugs.
I think transmission fluid and filter change is a good idea, the 2011 has more frequent change intervals if I remember right.
Not sure you need to replace the water pump, etc but that's up to you.
I had also replaced the belt but tensioner etc was fine. Easy enough though.
Mbpartsdirect, fcpeuro, seem to be prevalent parts choice. I use Rockauto and EBay as well but with an eye to exactly what quality of parts are offered.
Rear diff fluid change, I did this way early, fluid looked great but I think at 100k it's time. I used MB fluid but other good quality synthetic is out there too. I used MB only because my car was still under warranty.
Oil change, I use Mobil1 European Car Formula 0w40 and Mann Filters. Oil from wallymart and filters from Rockauto.
Have had good experience with Pentius air filters for thousands of miles on our vehicles, yearly Blackstone oil analysis bears out no contaminants. They are inexpensive, also got them from Rockauto.
Good luck!

Last edited by Mud; 01-16-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mud View Post
Check the fluid filled engine/transmission mounts, they are prone to early failure. My 2011 has new mounts at current 54k miles. Engine mounts are a chore, if the mounts are collapsed get the dealer to do them before you buy.
Check the pcv oil separator located rear of passenger side cylinder head, if there is oil in the throttle body tube, or if the unit is seeping oil, replace the separator.
Good time to check brakes and flush brake fluid.
Also good time to spray clean MAF sensor in throttle body.
Look up intake flaps, these can jam or the vacuum pivot can break. Thus is more for info than having to do anything right now.
General preference on plugs is NGK Laser Platinum Plug PLKR7A, preferred over oem Bosch plugs.
I think transmission fluid and filter change is a good idea, the 2011 has more frequent change intervals if I remember right.
Not sure you need to replace the water pump, etc but that's up to you.
I had also replaced the belt but tensioner etc was fine. Easy enough though.
Mbpartsdirect, fcpeuro, seem to be prevalent parts choice. I use Rockauto and EBay as well but with an eye to exactly what quality of parts are offered.
Rear diff fluid change, I did this way early, fluid looked great but I think at 100k it's time. I used MB fluid but other good quality synthetic is out there too. I used MB only because my car was still under warranty.
Oil change, I use Mobil1 European Car Formula 0w40 and Mann Filters. Oil from wallymart and filters from Rockauto.
Have had good experience with Pentius air filters for thousands of miles on our vehicles, yearly Blackstone oil analysis bears out no contaminants. They are inexpensive, also got them from Rockauto.
Good luck!
as far as rear differential , whats the interval for that?? I never changed it eversince i got the car.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:49 PM
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Funny you should mention mounts...The one I looked at prior to this one, seemed to have possible mount failure. Make sure I am understanding correctly. Cold start, When in reverse still cold the vibration sounded and felt like a massaging chair. Did it in drive but more pronounced in reverse. vibration smoothed out as engine warmed up and driven a few miles. That vehicle was a 2010 E350 4MATIC. Same price for 2010 4 MATIC with 113K and 2011 E CLASS Regular with only 96K. If I was still back east I would consider the 4 MATIC but I will take less miles and a year newer. Engine mounts seem fine on this one no rattles, no vibration smooth as silk both stationary and moving.

Fluid flushes and filter changes are pretty much my standard unless I can see that they were competed recently. Copy Separator, good catch.

Copy FCP Euro in fact they just did a delivery yesterday. I had some parts ordered for the BMW but traded during their shipment process. I need to return those and will still order but parts for current E350 I have had good luck with Bosch on previous vehicles and would almost swear by them but not to say I can't be swayed. I concur on Mobil 1 I would prefer 5W30 if possible since my Explorer takes that and I don't have to keep two types of oil in stock. I used to go with FRAM filters mainly for the non skid grip to help remove and install. I concur Blackstone, haven't used them in a while but wouldn't hurt probably next oil change.

About to go pick it up today. Dealer called and advised they were going to replace the (-) Paddle shift AND auxiliary Battery due to AUX Battery Malfunction. I had the message when I started yesterday but when the engine got running for a bit the message went away. I suspect just not being driven for a while, although I won't say no to replacement I think I can survive a couple of days. If I am understand correctly this is the battery in the hood? rear corner passengers side? The main battery is in the trunk to be honest I would almost rather replace myself and get a decent AGM type. I of course won't say no to FREE though. I have a portable jump start/battery pack I can keep onboard until I get the AUX battery replaced.
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:09 PM
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Your main battery should be under the hood passenger side firewall. The aux battery is buried under the dash. That is my recollection with a '11
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Old 01-16-2019, 05:33 PM
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2011 E-350 4Matic Sport
Originally Posted by belarus27 View Post
as far as rear differential , whats the interval for that?? I never changed it eversince i got the car.
Average I've always used is a 100k interval. To me, oil is cheap insurance and I changed mine at the halfway point. In hindsight the oil looked great, so I didn't need to change it at 50k but no big deal for some gear lube cost.
Rear diff is very easy to drain and refill.
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Old 01-16-2019, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mud View Post
Average I've always used is a 100k interval. To me, oil is cheap insurance and I changed mine at the halfway point. In hindsight the oil looked great, so I didn't need to change it at 50k but no big deal for some gear lube cost.
Rear diff is very easy to drain and refill.
do you know if there are any manuals or anything to show me the steps , or just any help or suggestions?? Im at 134k already
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Old 01-16-2019, 05:48 PM
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2011 E-350 4Matic Sport
Originally Posted by 2011E350 View Post
Copy FCP Euro in fact they just did a delivery yesterday. I had some parts ordered for the BMW but traded during their shipment process. I need to return those and will still order but parts for current E350 I have had good luck with Bosch on previous vehicles and would almost swear by them but not to say I can't be swayed. I concur on Mobil 1 I would prefer 5W30 if possible since my Explorer takes that and I don't have to keep two types of oil in stock. I used to go with FRAM filters mainly for the non skid grip to help remove and install. I concur Blackstone, haven't used them in a while but wouldn't hurt probably next oil change.
I like Bosch products as well, in fact I had installed a new set of Bosch plugs to replace the oem set. I saw a lot of feedback on using the NGK's and a bit of increased mileage from them, feedback also noted some of the cars had NGK as factory plugs as well. I was curious enough to swap out the new Bosch plugs for the NGK and surprisingly enough saw a real increase of 1-2 mpg that has been consistent since the plug swap. Performance seems to be about the same with both brands, either of which you can't go wrong with.

We also have another vehicle that takes 5w-30 but just my preference I use the 0w-40 oil that was spec'd for this E350.
However, I think I've seen others using 5w-30, I'm sure you'll get more feedback.

Oil filter info:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lter-pics.html

Filters, fluids, etc, use what you prefer, I'm just passing along info.



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Old 01-16-2019, 06:03 PM
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2011 E-350 4Matic Sport
Originally Posted by belarus27 View Post
do you know if there are any manuals or anything to show me the steps , or just any help or suggestions?? Im at 134k already
General steps:
Car needs to be level so you can get the correct fill level in the differential.
There is a drain plug and a fill plug on that rear differential.
Spray the plug areas a bit with cleaner to get any gunk out of those areas.
Loosen fill plug a bit first, then loosen drain plug. That's in case there is a problem with the fill plug, you're not stuck with a drained differential before discovering the fill plug problem. Not very common though.
Drain the fluid, and also remove the fill plug to allow fluid to drain completely.
When drained, re-install the drain plug. I use a bit of plumbers tape on the tapered drain/fill threads.
Fill the differential with fluid until it starts to drip from the fill plug opening, then re-install the fill plug. You can raise the body a bit (still keeping the driveline level) to give a bit of room to get a bottle up there. I prefer a hand pump that threads onto the quart bottle, makes life easier to just pump fluid into the diff.

I'm sorry, offhand I don't remember the fill quantity, easy enough to look it up.
As mentioned I used MB spec fluid, but it's essentially a synthetic 75W-85 gear fluid. I used part no. 001-989-33-03-12 but I've read others using a good quality Mobil1, Amsoil, etc. fluid without issue.



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Old 01-16-2019, 10:45 PM
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2011 E350
I did notice some cutouts in the frame for jack stands. I could like that/ I am not sure if it is a cutout that was there for lifts at shops and the average person can benefit from too. All items noted, as for the spark plugs since I am old school and change every 25K even if I went with Bosch I could try NGK at next change. I am trying to not get carried away with preventative maintenance that I wind up either immobilizing the vehicle or spend so much money that I wish I hadn't. I am trying to take a phased approach and items that can be done around the 100K time frame and items that will last a while. I figure with some good maintenance items yes some preventative but items that you really can't go wrong with considering mileage. I am a pretty firm believer in preventative maintenance especially high mileage/time items. Brakes, tires, struts, shocks, fluids and filters and yes probably the water pump, cooling system flush, thermostat and hoses seem reasonably easy so obviously tackle what I can by myself.

First things first and hopefully a fairly simple solution. Does anyone know of a interface cable that can connect the COMAND media interface cable but can run either Aux AND USB? I see USB and AUX adapters but trying to find one that can fit both without having to change out cables. I will be primary USB but want the option.
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