E350 cdi Blue Efficiency 3.0 V6 2010
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magLipVE
E350 cdi Blue Efficiency 3.0 V6 2010
Hi members.
Tried to find a thread on changing the fuel filter on my E350 265 Hp but couldn't find one.
So I had to go it alone with just WIS for comapny and thought I'd recount the way I went around it in case it might help any other members.
This applies to the V6 with a resonator poking out across the fuel filter from the Charge Air Duct which goes from the turbo outlet as high pressure to the intercooler on the left-hand side.
With this model, it is not possible to remove the filter until you have removed the duct. I suppose you might be able to loosen a few bits and force it out and then in but I wan't prepared to try this.
First of all, identify which of the three filters you have on your engine. They are very different and you should be able to do this beforehand simply by lifting off the engine cover.
Secondly, I would strongly recommend changing the accessory, multi-rib belt at the same time because you are going to have to do most of the steps anyway. It is possible to do this job without removing the cooling fan assembly but access is really tight and I have found it easier to pull the fan.
Disconnect the central air cover duct at the cover by lifting the two clips either side and tucking it underneath. Remove the engine cover. Pull out the bonnet release cable at three points: left centre and right. Push a flat screwdriver down each of the two rectangular slots at the font of the horizontal plastic panel and the push backwards to unhook the panel.
Eight 10mm bolts release the metal panel beneath the plastic one you just removed and then you can reach in behind the grill with a flat screwdriver and release the clips so that you can swing it up and remove the grille. Un-clip and rotate forwards, the plastic panel which protects the tops of the radiator and intercooler matrices.
From underneath, you need to remove the front guard, then unclip and pivot the plastic protective strip downwards. While you are down there having fun, undo one screw on the right-hand side which clamps the AC pipes to the fan assembly. On the left-hand side you can reach up and cut a tie-wrap then remove the plug which powers the fan.
Removing the fan assembly now is straightforward: It sits in four slots so just lift it up and once disengaged, push it to the right-hand side of the car (your left) and wiggle upwards; it will come out almost at 45 degrees. It's one of those where you puff and pant and are just about to b****r off down the pub and then it falls out when you align it just so!
With that out, I taped some card against the radiator to reduce the risk of bending the fins. You now have good access to remove the belt cover. . This is two male torx at the top and then you have to pull it up to disengage the plastic pin at the bottom. I had to push it up from underneath and it was so tight that it took two of us, one below and one above. Grease that well before you put it back! Now undo four torx female self-tappers and remove the charge air duct cover, then two male torx bolts which hold the duct to the block. At the top of the duct is a screw and a clip which you slide out to disengage the pipe.
If you are going to change the belt then pull out the clip underneath left, where the duct meets the intercooler and remove the whole lot for inspection and cleaning. Mine leaks a bit of oil from the turbo so it was worth cleaning it all out. Take care to make sure seals are ok and in place.
On top, you need to remove the air duct which crosses between the two air filters. There is a MAF sensor each side; slide the grey clip out and then squeeze the connector to pull it off. Undo the four snap clips, two each side. Unscrew two self-tappers which hold the upper and lower air filter box halves - each side. On the right-hand side undo the male torx which holds the box down. Using a 7mm socket, unscrew the jubilee clip which clamps the duct to the turbo inlet pipe red seal. Unless I've forgotten something, you should now be able to wiggle the cross-duct out and clear, removing the breather pipe at the red seal. I replaced the air filters at this point since I knew for a fact that they hadn't been changed in 15,000miles. One more screw holds the charge air duct in place and then you can remove this too. In my case, the green O ring had split so the hoist was out of action for two days whilst I ordered up a new one. I replaced all three seals whilst I was there. Let me know if you need the part numbers.
Finally, you can unscrew the allen key clampdown the back of the filter, undo the pipe clips and pipes, then remove the filter. I removed the clips with one of those old black carpenters nail removers/pincers and cracked the pipe seals with a pair of water pump pliers.My filter has a pre-heater on top of the filter but the out pipe is sealed off. I had to transfer the seal from the old filter and I should have ordered a new one; make sure you have it on correctly and properly sealed. I got this wrong and fuel persisted out.
This is quite a long job and I suspect that it often doesn't get done at all. Mine has done 70,000 miles and I so no evidence that it had been changed. Another job jobbed!
I hope someone can make use of this narrative.
Tried to find a thread on changing the fuel filter on my E350 265 Hp but couldn't find one.
So I had to go it alone with just WIS for comapny and thought I'd recount the way I went around it in case it might help any other members.
This applies to the V6 with a resonator poking out across the fuel filter from the Charge Air Duct which goes from the turbo outlet as high pressure to the intercooler on the left-hand side.
With this model, it is not possible to remove the filter until you have removed the duct. I suppose you might be able to loosen a few bits and force it out and then in but I wan't prepared to try this.
First of all, identify which of the three filters you have on your engine. They are very different and you should be able to do this beforehand simply by lifting off the engine cover.
Secondly, I would strongly recommend changing the accessory, multi-rib belt at the same time because you are going to have to do most of the steps anyway. It is possible to do this job without removing the cooling fan assembly but access is really tight and I have found it easier to pull the fan.
Disconnect the central air cover duct at the cover by lifting the two clips either side and tucking it underneath. Remove the engine cover. Pull out the bonnet release cable at three points: left centre and right. Push a flat screwdriver down each of the two rectangular slots at the font of the horizontal plastic panel and the push backwards to unhook the panel.
Eight 10mm bolts release the metal panel beneath the plastic one you just removed and then you can reach in behind the grill with a flat screwdriver and release the clips so that you can swing it up and remove the grille. Un-clip and rotate forwards, the plastic panel which protects the tops of the radiator and intercooler matrices.
From underneath, you need to remove the front guard, then unclip and pivot the plastic protective strip downwards. While you are down there having fun, undo one screw on the right-hand side which clamps the AC pipes to the fan assembly. On the left-hand side you can reach up and cut a tie-wrap then remove the plug which powers the fan.
Removing the fan assembly now is straightforward: It sits in four slots so just lift it up and once disengaged, push it to the right-hand side of the car (your left) and wiggle upwards; it will come out almost at 45 degrees. It's one of those where you puff and pant and are just about to b****r off down the pub and then it falls out when you align it just so!
With that out, I taped some card against the radiator to reduce the risk of bending the fins. You now have good access to remove the belt cover. . This is two male torx at the top and then you have to pull it up to disengage the plastic pin at the bottom. I had to push it up from underneath and it was so tight that it took two of us, one below and one above. Grease that well before you put it back! Now undo four torx female self-tappers and remove the charge air duct cover, then two male torx bolts which hold the duct to the block. At the top of the duct is a screw and a clip which you slide out to disengage the pipe.
If you are going to change the belt then pull out the clip underneath left, where the duct meets the intercooler and remove the whole lot for inspection and cleaning. Mine leaks a bit of oil from the turbo so it was worth cleaning it all out. Take care to make sure seals are ok and in place.
On top, you need to remove the air duct which crosses between the two air filters. There is a MAF sensor each side; slide the grey clip out and then squeeze the connector to pull it off. Undo the four snap clips, two each side. Unscrew two self-tappers which hold the upper and lower air filter box halves - each side. On the right-hand side undo the male torx which holds the box down. Using a 7mm socket, unscrew the jubilee clip which clamps the duct to the turbo inlet pipe red seal. Unless I've forgotten something, you should now be able to wiggle the cross-duct out and clear, removing the breather pipe at the red seal. I replaced the air filters at this point since I knew for a fact that they hadn't been changed in 15,000miles. One more screw holds the charge air duct in place and then you can remove this too. In my case, the green O ring had split so the hoist was out of action for two days whilst I ordered up a new one. I replaced all three seals whilst I was there. Let me know if you need the part numbers.
Finally, you can unscrew the allen key clampdown the back of the filter, undo the pipe clips and pipes, then remove the filter. I removed the clips with one of those old black carpenters nail removers/pincers and cracked the pipe seals with a pair of water pump pliers.My filter has a pre-heater on top of the filter but the out pipe is sealed off. I had to transfer the seal from the old filter and I should have ordered a new one; make sure you have it on correctly and properly sealed. I got this wrong and fuel persisted out.
This is quite a long job and I suspect that it often doesn't get done at all. Mine has done 70,000 miles and I so no evidence that it had been changed. Another job jobbed!
I hope someone can make use of this narrative.
