P2004/0521 Swirl Flap Stuck Open. Fixed but still coding!
I removed the intake manifold and replaced the lever arm with this:
It has some positive reviews and I thought it would be a good choice.
After screwing it to the manifold and connecting it to the solenoid lever arm, I thought that it seemed very stiff. It had swiveled more easily before connecting it the solenoid....But I figured that was a good thing. After installation, I cleared codes and started the car. It sounded fine. So, then I went to work the next day, and as I pulled into the parking lot I saw the dang check engine light again. I checked the codes right there and then, and saw the same code. This didn't make any sense to me because my mileage was better than before and the car seemed to idle smoother.
Upon looking in the engine bay with the engine still running, I noticed that the lever arm and solenoid weren't really moving. Should my swirl valve be moving back and forth rapidly? Anybody have any idea what could be wrong now? I'm thinking that the issue is that the solenoid is busted and I need to replace it >.<
I'm sorry if this issue has been seen before. The only reason I found out that I could replace the lever arm was because of looking through this forum. But I can't find anything related to still having an issue even after replacing the lever arm. I appreciate any input.




What happens many times is that when the butterfly breaks, it causes the flap rods to bind, which can eventually lead to the flaps breaking and which in turn can lead to catastrophic internal engine damage. That's why it is recommended to just replace the entire intake manifold assembly.
If you take it apart again, check the movement of the flap rods individually (with the butterfly disconnected) to make sure they are not binding.
[Edit]: I myself went with a metal butterfly on the W211 but what was explained to me by a MBZ tech is that they make the OEM ones out of plastic so that in case the flap rods start binding, the butterfly will give before the flaps break and damage the engine internals.
Last edited by EuroDriverSD; Feb 6, 2020 at 03:27 PM.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...fold-700246330
You could also search on eBay, the rods also break. They're not supposed to move rapidly. They're basically tuned intake runners. At high rpms, it switches to one set of runners and at low rpms it switch to the other. So depending on where the flaps break, you either get bad performance at high or low rpms. The flaps get gummed up over time and become difficult to move, eventually those bits break. You can replace the lever and the road, but they will continue to get gummed up and eventually break off which can cause engine damage. That's why those bits are considered a short term fix. Long term is to replace the manifold and you're good for another 100k+. You could also pick up a rebuilt one on Ebay for $350, but you have to send in the core and $580 at Fcpeuro comes with a lifetime warranty as opposed to the 1 year on eBay. Still in theory it should last a while so maybe the lifetime warranty doesn't mean anything in this case. The one from FCP is the Pierburg which is the oem maker for Mercedes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E350-2006-2011-M272-V6-Engine-Modified-Intake-Manifold-Gasket-Set/192758184793


