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Having done our W212 ceramic coating - along with all the prep work of paint correction, iron removing, etc - there is no way I would pay $1000 for it.
But it is worth the effort, absolutely.
Last edited by LILBENZ230; 07-12-2020 at 02:50 PM.
Now to deal with the deformed engine compartment insulation. It has shrunk and curled, both at the top and bottom in a number of places. I thought about replacing the insulation... till I read that the engine needed to be removed, beside the couple hundred $ expense which might result in the same outcome.
Did some searching on the forum, service bulletin suggests replacement seal with extended front lip (A 212 628 08 00). Beside the seal, probably could add a few oversized washers to the plastic body nuts and screws that secure it.
Any experience?
i had this on my 550 ever since i got it , tried to make it stay in there but nothing worked so i gave up, not a big deal.
(engine insulation)
Having done our W212 ceramic coating - along with all the prep work of paint correction, iron removing, etc - there is no way I would pay $1000 for it.
But it is worth the effort, absolutely.
Looks gorgeous! What ceramic coating did you go with? Do you wax or seal over the top at all?
Dealt with the deformed engine bay insulation, which I started prior with a couple plastic "washers" for the side panels and I removed the seal for the picture. Here's what I started with:
Notice in the back the insulation is damaged, exposing the inner foam core. I wanted to "encapsulate" the damaged area to prevent further damage and water ingress. Due to the felted surface of the insulation, I knew it was going to be a challenge for any tape to adhere and it proved true with this fire resistant tape (Polyken 268FR). The reason I went with this tape was its temperature rating, in the hopes it wouldn't lose adhesion at higher temps over time and its width (2"). However it never really stuck in the first place. Another tape I had was Tesa 51036, which adhered much better. It also carried a high temperature rating, but was only 3/4" in width and would require multiple overlapped passes to cover the damaged area.
I went with the Polyken tape and applied it in a manner overlapping the edges, so the tape would adhere to itself (it held much better). After taping up the damaged area in the rear, here's what I had:
Now with the insulation "repaired", the task was to secure it to the engine bay/firewall. In my case, the revised seal wasn't going to be enough on its own... between the shrinkage of the insulation material and deformed/curled top edge. If you notice, the insulation runs down behind aluminum heat-shields near the bottom of the engine compartment (on both sides). I try pulling the insulating around the engine compartment up a bit to allow the revised seal lip to cover/catch the upper edge of the insulation. However the heat-shields pinched the insulation at the bottom, so I loosened up a few of the nuts securing those heat-shields and was able to lift the insulation a little bit. This helped a little, still not enough.
Next I made multiple "washers" from plastic paneling (W124 parts car, fuel rail cover and battery) to secure the insulation. I used the thicker plastic (~1/16") to form three square/rectangular washers, which I placed at the sides (highlighted in blue) reusing the original sheetmetal hex screws that secured the rear firewall section to the sides. The third piece (highlighted blue), I placed in the middle which required a hole to be drilled in the firewall and an expansion rivet to hold it in place.
Finally I made a few washers from the thinner plastic (~1/32") and used those under a few of the plastic rivets (highlighted green), which originally secured the insulation.
That's it... YMMV. Now to detail the engine compartment and see how it holds up over time.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 07-16-2020 at 10:36 AM.
Thank you very much for the detailed writeup and great photos. I'm going to try to find some of the Tesa 51036 and give this a shot myself.
Did you notice any reduction in noise levels?
Thanks, I haven't driven it since... been detailing the interior and still need to replace the underbody panels in the rear from working on the airmatic. I doubt there is any reduction in noise... just driving this car is a reduction compared to my E320
Looks gorgeous! What ceramic coating did you go with? Do you wax or seal over the top at all?
Sorry, I missed this. This is Avalon King ceramic coating. No need to wax/seal it, as a matter of fact some of that can reduce its life. Just basic wash maintenance. It never sees an automatic car wash and is washed using 2 bucket method and the like.
Sorry, I missed this. This is Avalon King ceramic coating. No need to wax/seal it, as a matter of fact some of that can reduce its life. Just basic wash maintenance. It never sees an automatic car wash and is washed using 2 bucket method and the like.
Thanks for letting me know. Looks gorgeous. I never use automatic wash either, just good technique hand washing. Still tempted by ceramic coatings but part of me would miss the satisfaction of a good waxing job.
Alternatively to repairing the insulation, the entire part is only $200. My dealer quoted about $700 in parts and $800 in labor to replace, I have no idea where they got that parts number. I wish it was easier to find an honest SA... If anybody knows one in Oregon let me know.
I imagine that it is quite the job to install and replace however, unless the fasteners are much easier to reach than one would expect.
Thanks for letting me know. Looks gorgeous. I never use automatic wash either, just good technique hand washing. Still tempted by ceramic coatings but part of me would miss the satisfaction of a good waxing job.
The satisfaction of doing it or the satisfaction of the results? If you're talking results, the car looks waxed all the time now and the hydrophobic qualities are way, way better than any wax I've ever used.
If you just enjoy it, you can still wax a ceramic coating. It's just not necessary.
The satisfaction of doing it or the satisfaction of the results? If you're talking results, the car looks waxed all the time now and the hydrophobic qualities are way, way better than any wax I've ever used.
If you just enjoy it, you can still wax a ceramic coating. It's just not necessary.
Both. I do enjoy the process quite a bit. Nice to spend some time with the car.
There’s also something special about the depth of carnauba that I haven’t quite seen from anything else. But if I can indulge in the occasional carnauba over the ceramic it sounds more appealing.
As winter has been closing in... I've been trying to get my detached garage setup enough to starting working over the winter. I've got a box of parts and not whole lot of time with a newborn.
Finished up the motor mounts and replaced the trans mount... nice, vibration-free gear engagement. Since the HVAC blower fan started chirping, that got replaced as well. Nice to see the replacement Behr is a genuine unit, they would do similar (grind down star) on their radiators. I know some will try to re-lubricate the bearings, but you could feel slight play (not present on replacement)... so its only matter of time before it'd chirp again.
Excellent attention to detail - I have same MY / Drivetrain. That engine insulation is also curling away on mine but luckily not delaminating too badly. Yet.
Using your info to correct it, has bugged me for a while. Thanks very much.
Had to laugh about your shop comments - been there done that lol.
2011 E350 4matic wagon (sport package, pana roof), kind of fell into this car as an opportunity popped up. This will be my third MB wagon, having owned two W124s prior (first wagon the unibody around the rear subframe rotted out and the second one I'm still driving).
Overall the car is in good shape, records show a dealer serviced car. Body is solidthr 212, no dents, no rust, drives right (beside vibration at idle). However, still a 9 yr, 100k+ mile car with some issues.
So off the bat:
Vibration at idle, smooths a bit when warmed (likely motor and trans mounts)
Engine compartment insulation deformed (pulled away from firewall)
Rusty lug bolts
Curbed wheels
Small tear in drivers lower seat cushion and seam showing signs of cracking
Drivers seat lower side plastic broken
Rear headrest (driver's side) floppy
Third row seat cup holder broken (doesn't latched in)
I'm interested in adding a hitch, my E320 did wonderful with a small trailer. The only two options I've seen are either Curt or Stealth Hitch. I have a Curt on the W124, but looking at it for the W212 it doesn't appear as robust and they advise to use additional straps for bike racks (hokey). The W124 Curt hitch was wider, mounting between frame rails (torsionally strong) and it had reinforcement plates that carried the load further in along the frame rails. Whereas the Stealth Hitch looks great, though its ~2x the price ($450 vs. $850) when you consider the Curt + PWM convertor. Any feedback with either hitches?
Anything else to consider, worry, maintenance, prevention on this car? Couple things:
Intake manifold flap breaking at 100-150k miles, just wait till CEL?
First up, addressed the airmatic line leak. My hunch was correct, the repair line was too short for the passenger side (valve body-to-air spring) by about a foot. However it was long enough for the drivers side air spring. The leak was likely caused by the line rubbing against the body as seen below (area of leak circled in orange). The picture is from under the car, looking rearward toward left side, at the front of the spare tire compartment.
There were multiple areas between the mounting clips the line could have eventually rubbed. As a preventative measure in those areas I took vacuum line, split and applied over the tubing to keep it off the body. I replaced both lines, might as well... I also found the rubber intake line between the filter and compressor had nearly a hole worn thru (rubbing against a bolt head on compressor).
Started car up, rear end raised and I didn't hear any leaks. I'll let it sit overnight and check tomorrow if the rear dropped any. It would probably be good to replace the air filter, intake air line and probably order a compressor rebuild kit (bagpipeandy? eBay). It would also provide an opportunity to dry out the air drier (silica).
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3
Car sat overnight in garage and this morning it had only dropped 5 mm. At least 2-3 mm of that drop was yesterday within the first couple hours after compressor ran and raised rear end. I checked a few times while was working on other things.
Did the cabin air filter today and while it was out, cleaned the evaporator with Kool-It. The fluid that drained out the bottom was a bit dirty, but it also dripped thru the underbody paneling. So it could have picked some dirt there as well.
Having purchased a dealer sold & serviced 2011 Wagon 4 months ago from that dealer, I am sharing my experiences about this 212 Model:
- the ripped vinyl driver’s seat is quite common.
“MB-Tex’” the flimsy vinyl, is notorious for tears.
I’m replacing mine with leather seating inserts.
- the wood trim in E’s of 2010, 2011 &
sporadically in 2012, lacks a UV Solvent in the
varnish, so, fading is quite common.
Original owners who got & properly responded
to the “Tecnical Bulletin” got free re-do’s
within first 4 years.
Now, you’re on your own. My local dealer will
“wholesale”the 7 pieces I need for $1100.
My local MB Detailer will install for 100’s.
- the shocks & front struts were replaced today
with factory standard Bilsteins / very impressive
upgrade. Much better handling!
My Wagon was dealer maintained, but the ride
had really deteriorated in 10 years & 100k miles
- SAM Module - this critical part failed 2 weeks
after my 3 month warranty, & Smothers Santa
Rosa did reimburse me for the $800 cost, but
not for rental car, tow & time, nor the $225
an hour for service.
FYI : SAMS can ONLY be installed by dealer
with satellite linkage. My Independent
Pete’s Mercedes didn’t know this & cost
me $1000 in diagnostic searching only to
NOT be able to complete the task.
- I find the interior quality not up to par with
my previous 124 & 210 Wagons, nor my
300CE.
- I’m just approaching this 212 Wagon with a
punch list of tasks; interior seating upgrades,
bleached wood replacements, suspension
redos.
How could I forget to confront the Engine Mount
problems in my previous litany of sub-par standards in the 212 E Wagon?
Enlightened decades ago, the MB Engineers
used rubber mounts In the 124 & 210 E Series, The Mounts (2 Engine & 1 Transmission) were made of heavy rubber, &, in my experience, lasted about 90-100K miles before being
replaced for a (relatively) nominal cost.
The 212 has hydraulic fluid-filled bags which
tend to work fine the first 50K or so miles, and, if you’re careful on speed bumps, you can baby service towards 70-maybe 80K.
BUT, when they leak, you’ll know straight-away.
The one good thing is that you know the minute you turn on the motor & grasp the wheel if the mounts are failing because of vibrations.
The engine will be collapsed on the car frame & vibrating through the wheel & dash to your fingertips.
Replacing leaking 212 Mounts is quite a production, what with the Engine being lifted UP & Out to get the passenger mount installed properly.
My Independent quotes $2000 for 212 Mounts.
I walked away from buying 2 212 Wagons because the Mounts were clearly collapsing.
I bought my current 2011 Wagon with dealer-
replaced Mounts.
07-12-2020 | 02:47 PM
with a newborn.
