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'11 E350 4matic Wagon, new to me, issues needing attention
2011 E350 4matic wagon (sport package, pana roof), kind of fell into this car as an opportunity popped up. This will be my third MB wagon, having owned two W124s prior (first wagon the unibody around the rear subframe rotted out and the second one I'm still driving).
Overall the car is in good shape, records show a dealer serviced car. Body is solid, no dents, no rust, drives right (beside vibration at idle). However, still a 9 yr, 100k+ mile car with some issues.
So off the bat:
Vibration at idle, smooths a bit when warmed (likely motor and trans mounts)
Engine compartment insulation deformed (pulled away from firewall)
Rusty lug bolts
Curbed wheels
Small tear in drivers lower seat cushion and seam showing signs of cracking
Drivers seat lower side plastic broken
Rear headrest (driver's side) floppy
Third row seat cup holder broken (doesn't latched in)
I'm interested in adding a hitch, my E320 did wonderful with a small trailer. The only two options I've seen are either Curt or Stealth Hitch. I have a Curt on the W124, but looking at it for the W212 it doesn't appear as robust and they advise to use additional straps for bike racks (hokey). The W124 Curt hitch was wider, mounting between frame rails (torsionally strong) and it had reinforcement plates that carried the load further in along the frame rails. Whereas the Stealth Hitch looks great, though its ~2x the price ($450 vs. $850) when you consider the Curt + PWM convertor. Any feedback with either hitches?
Anything else to consider, worry, maintenance, prevention on this car? Couple things:
Intake manifold flap breaking at 100-150k miles, just wait till CEL?
I addressed the broken third row cup holder, the catch (small "Y" shaped piece) broke. The housing is made of ABS, so I decided to try glueing the piece back with ABS glue (plumbing). Cleaned up the grease, applied glue and pressed piece into place. Let it cure overnight and so far its holding... we'll see longer-term. It's not an expensive piece to replace ~$70.
Next, dealing with the busted rear headrest. Looking thru EPC, it doesn't appear the parts constituting the headrest are available separately and the headrest goes for ~$200. Quick search on eBay turned up a few headrests and I snagged the cheapest one (beige) for $35. I'll swap the covers and reinstall it.
Now to deal with the deformed engine compartment insulation. It has shrunk and curled, both at the top and bottom in a number of places. I thought about replacing the insulation... till I read that the engine needed to be removed, beside the couple hundred $ expense which might result in the same outcome.
Did some searching on the forum, service bulletin suggests replacement seal with extended front lip (A 212 628 08 00). Beside the seal, probably could add a few oversized washers to the plastic body nuts and screws that secure it.
Got some items from the dealer: revised engine compartment seal, lower seat trim and spare key. The revised seal (A 212 628 08 00) has a lip ~7/16" long, which isn't much... we'll see how it does.
Please let us know if you find a solution for the soundproofing beyond just the new seal. I already have the new seal and I can't fully tuck in my deformed soundproofing directly below the engine as it is too low.
Not too many wagon people on here as they're somewhat rare. The motor mounts are well known to go, the transmission mount is easy to replace, but the two engine ones are a bit tougher. There's several threads on here that are quite long that go into replacing them. Rusty lug bolts are pretty common, I never got around to getting new ones, some recommend Gorilla replacement ones, but they can be pricey. That tear in the seat just looks like a previous owner damaged it, it's not a common failure, usually it's a rip in the middle seam and the replacement cover is in the $250-$300 range. Not sure if the pan needs to be upgraded, transmission seems to have a better history than the W211. I have two M272 engines and I'm just waiting til the manifold goes before replacing it. The CEL light will tell you when it's time.
The other standard stuff is the thermostat going along with the oil cooler gaskets. When you're doing those, replace the pulleys/tensioners and belt as you take apart some of that stuff anyway to change the thermostat. Also keep an eye on your cv joints, the OEM axles are expensive, if you catch them early enough, you can just replace the boots. The axle seal can also sometimes go. Is your pano roof making any noise on ramps? If you go over them at an angle, sometimes you hear creaking/popping noises. The bolts can be loose. But as a wagon, maybe it's more stable and the body doesn't flex as much so maybe you won't have the same problem. I've also replaced my rear springs/shocks and need to do the same on the fronts as my sedan is over 100k.
Not too many wagon people on here as they're somewhat rare. The motor mounts are well known to go, the transmission mount is easy to replace, but the two engine ones are a bit tougher. There's several threads on here that are quite long that go into replacing them. Rusty lug bolts are pretty common, I never got around to getting new ones, some recommend Gorilla replacement ones, but they can be pricey. That tear in the seat just looks like a previous owner damaged it, it's not a common failure, usually it's a rip in the middle seam and the replacement cover is in the $250-$300 range. Not sure if the pan needs to be upgraded, transmission seems to have a better history than the W211. I have two M272 engines and I'm just waiting til the manifold goes before replacing it. The CEL light will tell you when it's time.
The other standard stuff is the thermostat going along with the oil cooler gaskets. When you're doing those, replace the pulleys/tensioners and belt as you take apart some of that stuff anyway to change the thermostat. Also keep an eye on your cv joints, the OEM axles are expensive, if you catch them early enough, you can just replace the boots. The axle seal can also sometimes go. Is your pano roof making any noise on ramps? If you go over them at an angle, sometimes you hear creaking/popping noises. The bolts can be loose. But as a wagon, maybe it's more stable and the body doesn't flex as much so maybe you won't have the same problem. I've also replaced my rear springs/shocks and need to do the same on the fronts as my sedan is over 100k.
Thanks for insight.
agree on motor and transmission mounts, passenger side looks compressed, need to get car on lift again, but plan to replace anyway
getting replacement lugs once supplier has them in stock again, decided to try the SS capped MB lugs
agree tear is likely owner damage, but it also starting to split at the stitched seam
I manipulated the linkage by hand, moves freely (no sign of binding yet)
initial inspection of CV boots and axle/diff seals showed no signs of leaks
can't say I've heard creaking from the pano roof, the tracks were WELL lubricated though
If you plan on keeping it for a while, consider getting stuff from FCPeuro, lifetime warranty on all the parts they sell. Although you probably don't want to do the motor mounts again, it's not easy. They went at 60k on my W211. They're liquid filled so they don't last as long as regular rubber ones on other car makes.
There's many threads on the split seat cover. Usually cheaper to buy online from MB dealers that sell online.
For the intake, a new Pierburg one is about $600, but you can also get a rebuilt one for about $350 on eBay.
As for the creaking on the pano roof, there's a video on here on how to fix it in the sedan, basically drop the headliner and tighten up some bolts which are part of the frame for pano roof. It has nothing to do with the tracks being lubricated or not. You can get a small container of the lubricating grease from ecstuning. I think MB normally sells it as a 500 gram tub which is probably meant for service centers and would last for several cars worth. I got a small half ounce container of it for around $10 a few years ago and use it in both cars and still have plenty left. Or pick up the 500 gram tub for $70. Your wagon is probably more stable for the roof than the sedan so less body flex when going over a ramp at an angle.
Unfortunately wagons are not immune to the pano creak, I just did my 2015. The backs of my hands look like I had a fight with a cat - the metal behind that headliner has some sharp edges. Would be an easier project with an assistant.
I’m following this thread- I also have the engine insulation issue and broken 3rd row cup holder (which I’ll probably leave as is).
Performed an injection system cleaning today using a BG tool and ACDelco cleaner. Mixed 4 oz of cleaner with 18 oz of fuel, added to cleaning tool reservoir, connected tool to fuel rail and set shop pressure to ~40 psi. Started car, which didn't run too rough, occasional hiccup and it died after ~ 30 min. There is a CEL, which will need clearing, otherwise uneventful. Whether it was needed, who knows, had tools and cleaner, can't hurt. We'll see if it runs any smoother.
Filled up the tank for the first time with Citgo 93 and Liqui Moly Jectron. CEL went out after a few days of driving. Runs good, maybe a bit more responsive and hasn't cured my vibration I guess motor mounts are still in the cards
Picked up some polyethylene coated fire-retardant tape, which I plan on using to repair areas of the engine compartment insulation that are torn, worn (exposed foam) or edges separating. Once repaired, a few strategically placed supports along with the revised seal, should be good.
Also booked a paint correction and ceramic coating for the car, which has some light swirling and hopefully the coating will give some protection for a while.
Picked up some polyethylene coated fire-retardant tape, which I plan on using to repair areas of the engine compartment insulation that are torn, worn (exposed foam) or edges separating. Once repaired, a few strategically placed supports along with the revised seal, should be good.
Very interested in how this goes for you. I would like to repair mine. Photos would be awesome!
Picked up parts today from dealer to repair the airmatic leak, passenger-side rear would drop overnight. Turned out to be a pinhole leak in the nylon tubing, behind an exhaust heat shield, where the line must have rubbed against the body.
I ordered a repair line (A 220 327 10 45) and 4 fittings (A 000 327 03 69) to replace both air spring lines. Based on EPC, I knew the repair line was only 5' in length... once I picked it up, I begin second guessing whether it'd be long enough to do in 1-piece. Luckily I have a NOS airline from our shop which was from another car. It's the same 4 mm line, just 21' in length. So, FYI, if you need a LONG piece of tubing see if P/N: A 164 327 13 45 is available, it may be NLA or superseded.
I also received the lug bolts I ordered from Otis... must be the same manufacturer for MB, and at $70/set I'm happy. Time will tell how they hold up.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; Jul 8, 2020 at 03:50 PM.
First up, addressed the airmatic line leak. My hunch was correct, the repair line was too short for the passenger side (valve body-to-air spring) by about a foot. However it was long enough for the drivers side air spring. The leak was likely caused by the line rubbing against the body as seen below (area of leak circled in orange). The picture is from under the car, looking rearward toward left side, at the front of the spare tire compartment.
There were multiple areas between the mounting clips the line could have eventually rubbed. As a preventative measure in those areas I took vacuum line, split and applied over the tubing to keep it off the body. I replaced both lines, might as well... I also found the rubber intake line between the filter and compressor had nearly a hole worn thru (rubbing against a bolt head on compressor).
Started car up, rear end raised and I didn't hear any leaks. I'll let it sit overnight and check tomorrow if the rear dropped any. It would probably be good to replace the air filter, intake air line and probably order a compressor rebuild kit (bagpipeandy? eBay). It would also provide an opportunity to dry out the air drier (silica).
What did the correction and coating run you if you don’t mind me asking? I’ve been considering it for mine.
Its certainly region specific, but I was referred thru an acquaintance and he did it for $1000. Wash, decontamination (iron remover), 1 step correction (lighter swirl removal), panel wipe down, ceramic coating application (3 layers). I know it can easily go $1500+ and if you get into 2 and 3 step correction its easily $2-3k. Figure 10-15 hrs minimum of work and likely $60-100/hr for quality.
Also addressed the broken driver's seat lower trim. It took a bit of disassembly to get the trim piece out. I removed the seat storage compartment, lower seat cushion, and a couple electrical connectors. Then it was unscrewing and unclipping the actual trim piece, which FYI contains an airbag at the rear (backrest pivot).
Good practice for when the seat cover will need replacement due to cracking.
Car sat overnight in garage and this morning it had only dropped 5 mm. At least 2-3 mm of that drop was yesterday within the first couple hours after compressor ran and raised rear end. I checked a few times while was working on other things.
Did the cabin air filter today and while it was out, cleaned the evaporator with Kool-It. The fluid that drained out the bottom was a bit dirty, but it also dripped thru the underbody paneling. So it could have picked some dirt there as well.
Its certainly region specific, but I was referred thru an acquaintance and he did it for $1000. Wash, decontamination (iron remover), 1 step correction (lighter swirl removal), panel wipe down, ceramic coating application (3 layers). I know it can easily go $1500+ and if you get into 2 and 3 step correction its easily $2-3k. Figure 10-15 hrs minimum of work and likely $60-100/hr for quality.
Thanks for the info. I have been getting quoted about $1500, although might be higher as mine is metallic black.
I know the coatings are great, but honestly I enjoy waxing my car regularly. Between that and the price having a hard time convincing myself.
Thanks for the info. I have been getting quoted about $1500, although might be higher as mine is metallic black.
I know the coatings are great, but honestly I enjoy waxing my car regularly. Between that and the price having a hard time convincing myself.
Was going to be $800 just to perform the paint correction, which originally was all I was after. Typical life stuff... too many projects, too little time and currently in process of building detached garage. I've polished cars in the past, and I told myself I wasn't about to spend 10+ hrs in the driveway in the current heat and humidity to do it. Ultimately he only charge me another $200 to do the coating, so I figured why not give it a try.
You still need to (or should) maintain the coating, as it'll lose it hydrophobic properties over time, by top-coating with a sealant or wax or ceramic rejuvenator to prolong the like of the coating (2, 3, 5 years). The work required prior to applying the ceramic coating (so it lasts) is where the money is, as the coating itself (material) isn't too expensive. My maintenance plan is after rinsing the car to spray a drying-aid, which helps water bead even more and applies light layers of additional protection as you dry the car off with a MF towel.
Was going to be $800 just to perform the paint correction, which originally was all I was after. Typical life stuff... too many projects, too little time and currently in process of building detached garage. I've polished cars in the past, and I told myself I wasn't about to spend 10+ hrs in the driveway in the current heat and humidity to do it. Ultimately he only charge me another $200 to do the coating, so I figured why not give it a try.
You still need to (or should) maintain the coating, as it'll lose it hydrophobic properties over time, by top-coating with a sealant or wax or ceramic rejuvenator to prolong the like of the coating (2, 3, 5 years). The work required prior to applying the ceramic coating (so it lasts) is where the money is, as the coating itself (material) isn't too expensive. My maintenance plan is after rinsing the car to spray a drying-aid, which helps water bead even more and applies light layers of additional protection as you dry the car off with a MF towel.
Good to know, thank you. I’ve read mixed things about whether waxing over ceramic does anything. Some people say it just won’t stick. It’s hard to get a definitive answer.
I would love to learn how to do paint correction myself as I really enjoying cleaning my cars and to save the money, but I definitely don’t want to learn on the W212
Very interested in your fix for the engine compartment insulation peeling back. Mine is the same way and if your fix goes well I will probably copy your method for mine.
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I guess motor mounts are still in the cards 
