Oh no debate on time between services from me.. once a year, for sure, regardless of miles.

 

Okay, but back on topic... Is anyone using a hand-pump-free, pneumatic topsider extractor? And how do you like it?

 

I have the hand-pump OE one, and I have issues getting all the oil out as it is 4matic...I can get a little over 8 ltrs out, but not much more. I'm okay with that though...

 

I recently purchased a FIRSTINFOTOOLS 16L/4 Gal air/manual topside extractor. I'm running it with a Makiita MAC700 2.4 Gal compressor. The largest extractor hose fits down the dipstick's tube on my 2013 E550 4Matic just a little bit further down the dipstick tube compared to the dipstick length. It takes less than 10 minutes to extract the warm engine oil with the oil filter loosened. My compressor maintains 70 PSI while operating my extractor. I've also changed the oil on a Ford Focus, Jeep Liberty, and my lawnmower. I wish I had bought this sooner, along with my upcoming purchase of a QuickJack BL5000EXT.

 

Ah, someone with experience at pneumatic oil extraction. Good to read that you like it.

 

Not all of us drive as easy as others,Where I live its a 105 in the summer and the main reason at 5k oil change is thats usually when year or longer is up. Yes under normal perfect conditions 10 to 15k is fine, I drive hard and my wife drives easy, so after 12 months we change, sometimes its 6k sometimes 5k But I prefer to not run any oil over a year.I deal with engines that are run usually between 6kRPM and 9kRPM. Fresh top quality oil is a must!!

 

The 1 year oil change recommendation come from US lawyers.
I have no problem to trust German engineers on this one and don't hesitate to keep oil in seldom driven cars for years.
If you park your car for longer time - disconnecting the battery not only prevents lot of potential problems, but also stops the oil change clock.

 

Finally got my first oil change with MityVac 7201 , wow how much easier it made things.

Pretty happy with it , not messy and no need to crawl under the car and undo the splash guards x2 lol

Would recommend to friend

 

i don’t understand. Is there a procedural difference with 4Matics?

IME, you don’t actually plunge the plastic suction tube down the dipstick tube. Instead, you use the dipstick tube as part of the extraction tube by adapting the hose from the vacuum extractor to the opening of the dipstick tube. I find the large-to-small-tube rubber adaptor that came with my Mityvac is just the right size to plus up the dipstick tube on my M278. Set up this way, I’m able to get pretty much all the engine oil out (>8 quarts) without problem.

When I first used the Mityvac, I too was getting inconsistent extracted volumes, and playing with different insertion depths of the small plastic tube into the dipstick tube. Sometimes I’ll get 4 quarts, but could tease an extra 2 quarts out messing with the insertion depth. However, it was never close to 8 quarts until I had an epiphany and used the dipstick tube as part of the extraction tube.

 

The difference is that while you may find it best to seal the engine's fill tube at the top to create a vacuum, this procedure is not necessary with the RWD.

 

I'm not sure you understand what I'm saying. You don't have to insert any plastic tube into the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube is used as an extension of the extractor, replacing the smaller diameter plastic tube entirely. This can be done with regardless of 4Matic.

 

I’m curious, how does sealing the dipstick tube suck all the oil out if the dipstick tube doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the pan? The entrance to the oil pan cavity could be at the top side. I understand if the oil pan was collapsible (think straw in a bag). There isn’t enough vacuum pressure to force the oil up the sides of the oil pan, right?

 

I understand EXACTLY what you have written. I'm telling you that there is a gap at the bottom of the dipstick (between tube and oil pan bottom), and that by using the tube supplied with the extractor, I can pull out any oil below the dipstick tube. In other words, using the dipstick tube alone cannot pull all the oil out once the suction is broken at the bottom of the dipstick tube. This always leaves some oil in the sump.

I realize this is splitting hairs, as the dealers don't care to extract every last drop of oil, and the extra amount used (6.9+qts vs the normal 5qts in other cars) allows for some dilution of old with new oil. But I have ZERO difficulties getting to the bottom of the sump using the extractor's plumbing. The extractor tube goes straight to the bottom of the sump without fail.

On the other hand, I've read lots of other threads here about the difficulty getting to the bottom of the sump on the 4-matic, with the known interference of the shaft going through the oil pan. Poor dipstick tube design on the 4-matics that is not a problem with the RWD cars.

I'm glad you are happy with your method, as I am satisfied with mine.

 

BINGO...

 

That's the problem. Your explanation doesn't actually fit my reality and data. Can you explain how I can get between 8.5 and 9 quarts of used oil out of a M278 if there's a significant gap between the bottom of the dipstick tube and the bottom of the oil pan, and when I actually remove the drain plug, all that's left is a dribble that's not really worth my while to crawl underneath the car? I can understand that it's a 1.9-quart difference, because if so, I too won't be using my extractor method.

OK, have you actually tried the method I'm describing, instead of dismissing it out of hand and say it doesn't work?

 

The fact that I've been able to get essentially all the used oil out using the method I've described means that the dipstick tube actually gets pretty close to the bottom of the pan. The way it gets the oil out is exactly the same as if one were to use a plastic "straw" inserted into the dipstick tube, except the dipstick tube is built-in. I have no idea what you're saying with the collapsible oil pan and vacuum pressure forcing oil up the sides of the oil pan.

Note that the dipstick tube does not have to end some distance above the bottom of the oil pan. It can end close to the bottom of the oil pan, and only need a small gap to allow oil to flow into the tube for the dipstick to have an accurate reading.

 

Why should I? My C320 holds 8qts of oil, and my method pulls out all 8qts, for the last 15 years. The W212 uses 6.9qts, and I get the full 6.9qts out, too. No reason to make the process more complicated than it needs to be.

Again, I'm glad your method works for you. Mine works for me, too, so there's no reason to experiment, IMO. You do your thing, I'll do mine, thanks.

 

I see. I'm here to help others by providing real-life tested information for their consideration, and dispel any incorrect understanding of how things work. It'll be nice if you did me the courtesy of not actively rejecting my recommendations oiutright without actually testing and verifying them yourself.

 

I believe I've been more than magnanimous to you in recognizing and accepting your extraction method...

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFWdude

I'm glad you are happy with your method, as I am satisfied with mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFWdude

Again, I'm glad your method works for you. Mine works for me, too, so there's no reason to experiment, IMO. You do your thing, I'll do mine, thanks.

In contrast, you seem to indicate that your research leaves a single method that "dispels any incorrect understanding of how things work."

What I recognized and still maintain is that there are at least two methods available -- that both use the same suction method -- and that no one is better than any other. I will not further argue this with you. Move along with your opinion, and I'll move along with mine, which I feel (after 15 years experience) is just as viable as yours.

This thread is about use of the pneumatic method of siphoning out the oil, rather than the manual pumping. My request is that we return to that discussion, please.

 

No, you stated, "I understand EXACTLY what you have written. I'm telling you that there is a gap at the bottom of the dipstick (between tube and oil pan bottom), and that by using the tube supplied with the extractor, I can pull out any oil below the dipstick tube. In other words, using the dipstick tube alone cannot pull all the oil out once the suction is broken at the bottom of the dipstick tube. This always leaves some oil in the sump."

You also stated, "I've read lots of other threads here about the difficulty getting to the bottom of the sump on the 4-matic, with the known interference of the shaft going through the oil pan. Poor dipstick tube design on the 4-matics that is not a problem with the RWD cars."

These are patently false statements, given the results and findings on my 4Matic W212.

I too recognize that there are many ways to skin a cat, and you're free to choose whatever floats your boat. Heck, I was draining oil the old fashioned way via the drain plug for ages. However, stating that there's a gap at the bottom of the dipstick tube preventing complete extraction, and then going on to wonder whether dealerships are not doing a complete job because they only use vacuum extraction (even on 4Matics) clearly demonstrated that you don't believe one can use the dipstick tube as part of the extraction setup to perform a complete extraction.


Please show me where amongst the 40+ posts on this thread that you indicated the method I suggested is valid?

Look, I posted to this thread to help happyeds (the dude is selling his OEMTools manual fluid extractor needlessly), up_too_late, and nota_amg out, simply because they used the intuitive but ultimately incorrect method that did not allow them to get complete extraction. I wouldn't have interjected if I didn't think they'll find the information I have useful.

 

Your extensive and exclusive expertise is needed in this thread, from post #36-52. There is a lot of discussion on the challenges of siphoning all of the oil from the 4-matic, from 4-matic owners. It discusses the known driveshaft interference through the pan that I noted. It appears that sealing the dipstick tube at the top works best on the 4-matics (as you have found), although some posters quote dealer sources saying it's best to drain 4-matics from below.

Do some reading, I didn't make up this ****... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...xtraction.html

Less complication on the non AWD cars, so I will use a system that has worked for me the last 15 years. Thank you.

I will make no further posts on this off-topic discussion unrelated to the thread topic. I started this thread to ask for experience using the newer, air compressor/pneumatic equipment.

Should this thread not get back on track due to further off-topic arguing, I will ask a moderator to lock this thread.