'11 E550 4matic Sedan, new to me, issues needing attention
#76
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
An old can of Aircraft decal and adhesive remover... probably full of Xylene. You know, the good stuff. Being in CT, the government says we can't such things anymore.
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pierrejoliat (04-23-2021)
#77
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interesting, my facelift 212 doesn't have those chrome handle liners. the handles themsleves are chrome on the inside, but I believe thats for the automagic unlocking (if you have the fob in your pocket, touch the metal part of the handle, and the doors unlock).,
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
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pierrejoliat (04-23-2021)
#78
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
interesting, my facelift 212 doesn't have those chrome handle liners. the handles themsleves are chrome on the inside, but I believe thats for the automagic unlocking (if you have the fob in your pocket, touch the metal part of the handle, and the doors unlock).,
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
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pierrejoliat (04-23-2021)
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
https://www.motortrend.com/cars/merc.../e-class/2011/
Click on features to see the cost of individual options.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
interesting, my facelift 212 doesn't have those chrome handle liners. the handles themsleves are chrome on the inside, but I believe thats for the automagic unlocking (if you have the fob in your pocket, touch the metal part of the handle, and the doors unlock).,
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
I've noticed on our older white cars, lots and lots of fingernail scratches in the 'pocket' around the door handle, probably from my wife's not-that-long nails. they rub out easily enough with a bit of Scratch-X, or most any cleaner-wax.
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pierrejoliat (04-23-2021)
#81
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I think it was an $84 option.
https://www.motortrend.com/cars/merc.../e-class/2011/
Click on features to see the cost of individual options.
https://www.motortrend.com/cars/merc.../e-class/2011/
Click on features to see the cost of individual options.
based on https://www.auto-brochures.com/makes...Class_2016.pdf
mine has...
- 2016 E350 4Matic Wagon - Luxury Edition
- Premium Package - COMAND nav, HK Logic7, Sirius, Voice control, heated front seats, power folding mirrors, rear side window sunshades,
- Lighthing Package with Full LED headlights and adaptive yada yada
- Keyless Go
- Lane Tracking (blind spot assist, lane keeping assist.... it beeps and buzzes but doesn't steer)
- Panoramic Roof
- 115VAC inverter (?? hey, it might be useful some day, but I've got a 200/400W cigar plug inverter already)
- MB-Tex - silk beige/espresso
- burl walnut wood
- polar white
#82
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hah, by 2016 it was probably a $200 option, but out of a $60K car, thats nothing.
based on https://www.auto-brochures.com/makes...Class_2016.pdf
mine has...
based on https://www.auto-brochures.com/makes...Class_2016.pdf
mine has...
- 2016 E350 4Matic Wagon - Luxury Edition
- Premium Package - COMAND nav, HK Logic7, Sirius, Voice control, heated front seats, power folding mirrors, rear side window sunshades,
- Lighthing Package with Full LED headlights and adaptive yada yada
- Keyless Go
- Lane Tracking (blind spot assist, lane keeping assist.... it beeps and buzzes but doesn't steer)
- Panoramic Roof
- 115VAC inverter (?? hey, it might be useful some day, but I've got a 200/400W cigar plug inverter already)
- MB-Tex - silk beige/espresso
- burl walnut wood
- polar white
I'm very happy to have paid $38000 for this car as a 28700 mile CPO just prior to Christmas...
(especially after 6 months of test driving a variety of $20-30K late model mostly japanese crossovers and sedans).
Last edited by Left Coast Geek; 04-23-2021 at 02:53 AM.
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Sooo. Motortrend claims thats a $59,900 base car, $837 for KG, $813 for lane tracking, $1395 for the Lighting Package, Premium 1 is $3282. The 115V inverter is $106. The Panoramic sunroof was $1013, for a grand total of $67346 plus tax and 'dealer' (rape) charges.
I'm very happy to have paid $38000 for this car as a 28700 mile CPO just prior to Christmas...
(especially after 6 months of test driving a variety of $20-30K late model mostly japanese crossovers and sedans).
I'm very happy to have paid $38000 for this car as a 28700 mile CPO just prior to Christmas...
(especially after 6 months of test driving a variety of $20-30K late model mostly japanese crossovers and sedans).
https://monroneylabels.com/
But just use the vin decoder and you'll know exactly what options the car has, no need for the brochure.
https://www.lastvin.com/
If the car was discounted, typical discounts are usually in the 5-11% range off MSRP but sometimes you hear of 15% off when there's some kind of special clearance.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
This is the inner door panel, Mercedes literally attached everything to it... so it goes in as one assembly. Very similar design concept with the rear subframe and front subframe/powerplant, etc... Have you wondered why they put the ECU on top of the engine? Makes for an interesting removal. Maybe I'll put together some more info on removing the inner panel as I didn't see the procedure fully documented in WIS and there's a few gotchas.
I have zero experience with rivets.
Thank u
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12 E350 4Matic 13 E350 4Matic AMG Sport
Yes, I have both and the fingernail scratches don't show up well in photos, I like the no chrome look better, but it does cut down somewhat on the scratches, I also use Scratch X a couple times a year, especially for my wife's drivers door, She has medium length nails.
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#87
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Sooo. Motortrend claims thats a $59,900 base car, $837 for KG, $813 for lane tracking, $1395 for the Lighting Package, Premium 1 is $3282. The 115V inverter is $106. The Panoramic sunroof was $1013, for a grand total of $67346 plus tax and 'dealer' (rape) charges.
Since you bought CPO didn't you get a printout from the dealer with the build sheet?
This is the build sheet for mine:
Last edited by LILBENZ230; 04-24-2021 at 08:17 AM.
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pierrejoliat (05-08-2021)
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Another project tackled... active bolsters, which weren't holding pressure and thus inop. Fix required a new "lumber support", P/N A0009108000 which is an assembly/frame holding both the lower lumber and active bolster [wings] bladders.
Certainly a job up there in effort, with the hardest part being unclipping the leather cover (bolsters) from the "wings". The lower seat cushion needs to be undone from the seat frame and moved forward a little (does not beed to be removed from car). The headrest guides are one-time use, luckily their only $7 ea. They have two locks, the upper being releasable with a screwdriver or pick. However the lower lock, a molded plastic one-way catch, needs to be broken to release from seat frame.
I did it with the seat in place... having it out of car would make access to the side bolsters better. You might end up fighting with the seat moving around as you pull and tug on it... YMMV.
The original bladders split right at the edge of the heat-sealed edge, like many you see online. Could the bladders be fixed... maybe. However the job is a bit of work to get to them... might as well and just replace the entire unit. The green circled areas on the bladders are the splits.
All the pictures are of the old unit, the new one was identical.
Certainly a job up there in effort, with the hardest part being unclipping the leather cover (bolsters) from the "wings". The lower seat cushion needs to be undone from the seat frame and moved forward a little (does not beed to be removed from car). The headrest guides are one-time use, luckily their only $7 ea. They have two locks, the upper being releasable with a screwdriver or pick. However the lower lock, a molded plastic one-way catch, needs to be broken to release from seat frame.
I did it with the seat in place... having it out of car would make access to the side bolsters better. You might end up fighting with the seat moving around as you pull and tug on it... YMMV.
The original bladders split right at the edge of the heat-sealed edge, like many you see online. Could the bladders be fixed... maybe. However the job is a bit of work to get to them... might as well and just replace the entire unit. The green circled areas on the bladders are the splits.
All the pictures are of the old unit, the new one was identical.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Do u think it is possible to re-seal those lumbar/bladder bags with food type hot seal ?
I think originally those bags were RF welded.
I think originally those bags were RF welded.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; 05-08-2021 at 10:04 AM. Reason: typo
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Do u think it is possible to re-seal those lumbar/bladder bags with food type hot seal ?
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Bag+Heat+...ref=nb_sb_noss
I think originally those bags were RF welded.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Bag+Heat+...ref=nb_sb_noss
I think originally those bags were RF welded.
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pierrejoliat (05-08-2021)
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Nearing the end... that while I'm there is a *****
Had some leaks from the oil filter housing/cooler area, so the plan is to:
* Replace oil filter housing and oil cooler seals
* Replace thermostat & flush coolant
* Replace accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner
* Replace P/S reservoir & flush fluid
Replacing the P/S reservoir would be a smart thing as you approach 10yr/100k. The reservoir has built-in filter and here's what mine looked like at 10 years and 100k:
I sourced a replacement reservoir from FCP who sold it as OEM, sure enough its a ZF unit with the MB star ground off (1/3 price of OE). A suck 'n fill at 50k and again at 100k with a reservoir replacement would be a good strategy.
Had some leaks from the oil filter housing/cooler area, so the plan is to:
* Replace oil filter housing and oil cooler seals
* Replace thermostat & flush coolant
* Replace accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner
* Replace P/S reservoir & flush fluid
Replacing the P/S reservoir would be a smart thing as you approach 10yr/100k. The reservoir has built-in filter and here's what mine looked like at 10 years and 100k:
I sourced a replacement reservoir from FCP who sold it as OEM, sure enough its a ZF unit with the MB star ground off (1/3 price of OE). A suck 'n fill at 50k and again at 100k with a reservoir replacement would be a good strategy.
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#92
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
I am wondering, when my previous car/s still have power steering fluid type.... I do oil change on it every 2-3 years thereabout.
Do you guys in the US do oil change on power steering ? I know it is not in the car maintenance manual.
Do you guys in the US do oil change on power steering ? I know it is not in the car maintenance manual.
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There's no service requirement for P/S, nor the differential on the W212... reducing maintenance is a strategy for the european manufacturers as it has implications for them, pretty sure financial, from what I understand. Building cars to last 20+ years and keeping them out of the landfill is not the goal for the legislators, nor the manufacturers.
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In the older days, we did the fluids like the AT, diff and P/S every 30k... even if some were considered "lifetime". You know, small price in the scheme of things. Today, I would adjust those targets based on the vehicle and fluids. Some guys still want to do 3k oil changes...
Then again, most people don't keep a car 100k and even less 200k.
Then again, most people don't keep a car 100k and even less 200k.
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I see "check power steering fluid" as a service B line item. Presumably if it looks dirty at that point it should be changed.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
I do my oil change for DIFF at 2 years or 20,000KM, same as as my 7 speed A/T. No replaceable lubrication fluid in my car is allowed to stay in use for longer than 2 years.
The improvement change in response of the transmission when it is almost 4 years , albeit 10,000KM old oil as I bought the W212, to new trans oil was obvious for sensitive me.
The improvement change in response of the transmission when it is almost 4 years , albeit 10,000KM old oil as I bought the W212, to new trans oil was obvious for sensitive me.
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With this black reservoir, small opening, green fluid... it’s really hard to judge by simply pulling the dipstick/cap.
When I flush I’ll try and save some of the old fluid... but the stuff that came out of the reservoir was a dark amber, almost like old brake fluid. The reservoir is original, but someone may have replaced the fluid in that past with something other than the correct fluid as well, hence the color.
They certainly replaced the coolant NOT with G48 or MB, BMW or Volvo dark blue-green stuff.
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changing ATF every 2 years or 20K miles seems way excessive to me, especially with the $$$$$ MB236.15 blue ATF that most W212 7G+'s use. factory says 60K / 6 years at least for my '16 E350. If I raced the car I might cut that in half.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Hi LCG,
It is 20,000KM or 12,427 statue miles.
As to why I choose 20,000 KM is based on operating hours.
During non covid days, my car only get 21 - 24KM/H average , majority of these is for sending and picking up my daughter from school, where 70% of the distance is actually already the paid highway.
So you can imagine what kind of bumper-2-bumper traffic Jakarta my city has. Even paid highway coming to a near snail speed is not uncommon during morning and evening rush hour.
20,000KM is already 800 - 1,000 hours for my W212.
Any typical lube oil passed 75C is starting to degrade.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com.../oil-breakdown
So I loose out on the temperature side of things and not 20,000KM worth of wear & tear or degrading addetives power and what not.
The 2 years is the natural degradation of the oil when already contaminated or used.
My engine oil is 5,000KM or 200-250 hours or 6-9 months max.
My car is turbo charged, so oil work harder.
Also no matter how clean an assembly plant it, it is wise to change the 1st oil OEM provide us by 1,500KM < 2,000KM , that includes engine oil, trans oil and DIFF oil.
Brake Fluid and Power Steering can wait.
I do not know what the techy name for this :............
When a new engine is exposed to 1st time oil, that oil need to stabilize certain things be it metal, gasket material and what not in the engine.
This 1st time oil always gets dirtier fast. That is a good sign, oil is working.
I still practice running-in oil change till today, for everything I own.
Below is my DIFF, when I installed an ABT type LSD, and its running-in oil 2,000KM looks like that.
Me trying to find metallic trace with magnet. I can't get locally a drain plug with magnet. I dare not use just any unknown quality magnet when it is for hot temperature. The magnet I use below the rectangular one,
it lost it sticking power by 50% or so when I placed it in engine bay, at ABS unit on the 4 brake pipes for 6 months or so.
ADD : 15 to 20K Kilometers oil vs engine hour life
It is 20,000KM or 12,427 statue miles.
As to why I choose 20,000 KM is based on operating hours.
During non covid days, my car only get 21 - 24KM/H average , majority of these is for sending and picking up my daughter from school, where 70% of the distance is actually already the paid highway.
So you can imagine what kind of bumper-2-bumper traffic Jakarta my city has. Even paid highway coming to a near snail speed is not uncommon during morning and evening rush hour.
20,000KM is already 800 - 1,000 hours for my W212.
Any typical lube oil passed 75C is starting to degrade.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com.../oil-breakdown
So I loose out on the temperature side of things and not 20,000KM worth of wear & tear or degrading addetives power and what not.
The 2 years is the natural degradation of the oil when already contaminated or used.
My engine oil is 5,000KM or 200-250 hours or 6-9 months max.
My car is turbo charged, so oil work harder.
Also no matter how clean an assembly plant it, it is wise to change the 1st oil OEM provide us by 1,500KM < 2,000KM , that includes engine oil, trans oil and DIFF oil.
Brake Fluid and Power Steering can wait.
I do not know what the techy name for this :............
When a new engine is exposed to 1st time oil, that oil need to stabilize certain things be it metal, gasket material and what not in the engine.
This 1st time oil always gets dirtier fast. That is a good sign, oil is working.
I still practice running-in oil change till today, for everything I own.
Below is my DIFF, when I installed an ABT type LSD, and its running-in oil 2,000KM looks like that.
Me trying to find metallic trace with magnet. I can't get locally a drain plug with magnet. I dare not use just any unknown quality magnet when it is for hot temperature. The magnet I use below the rectangular one,
it lost it sticking power by 50% or so when I placed it in engine bay, at ABS unit on the 4 brake pipes for 6 months or so.
ADD : 15 to 20K Kilometers oil vs engine hour life
Last edited by S-Prihadi; 05-10-2021 at 05:34 AM. Reason: big time typo error :)
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