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I own an E300 bluetec hybrid with Distronic Plus. Most of the times DTR+ does not work. It shows the 3 messages stating that blind spot, cruise control and some pre-safe functions are unavailable.
Using a scan tool, when DTR+ is working, I can connect to the A89 module, but when the system fails, the scan tool also fails to reach it (as if the module was disconnected).
Since the issue is intermittent, I'd like to check the connections and maybe the state of the module, but I have no idea where it is located.
Does anyone have a clue or has gone through such issue?
I own an E300 bluetec hybrid with Distronic Plus. Most of the times DTR+ does not work. It shows the 3 messages stating that blind spot, cruise control and some pre-safe functions are unavailable.
Using a scan tool, when DTR+ is working, I can connect to the A89 module, but when the system fails, the scan tool also fails to reach it (as if the module was disconnected).
Since the issue is intermittent, I'd like to check the connections and maybe the state of the module, but I have no idea where it is located.
Does anyone have a clue or has gone through such issue?
I own an E300 bluetec hybrid with Distronic Plus. Most of the times DTR+ does not work. It shows the 3 messages stating that blind spot, cruise control and some pre-safe functions are unavailable.
Using a scan tool, when DTR+ is working, I can connect to the A89 module, but when the system fails, the scan tool also fails to reach it (as if the module was disconnected).
Since the issue is intermittent, I'd like to check the connections and maybe the state of the module, but I have no idea where it is located.
Does anyone have a clue or has gone through such issue?
Thank you all in advance
Sergio
I don't know where that module is located, but did have intermittent failure where just about everything was "unavailable" - difference is mine would go into Limp mode. Pull over and cycle ignition and it was gone for some amount of time. Strange as it seemed to me, it was the throttle sending unit. MB first repaired it with "new pins" (contacts?) and when it started up again 6 months later they replaced the throttle assembly - fine ever since. Good luck...
no it may happen suddenly during driving. When it does so, turning the car off and waiting for a couple of minutes solves it.
But most times it simply won’t work from cold start, it is not wet nor dirty. The car is kept on a garage. On these days, restarting the car won’t bring the DTR+ back to life.
Check the state of charge on your battery. I’ll bet that is your problem.
I will, just bought a battery charger today to troubleshoot it. Which battery do you refer? Main or auxiliary?
btw, yesterday I measured voltages on both, main was 12,1V and auxiliary was 12,9V, I found that odd. But today when I started the car it didn’t go to eco mode immediately as usual, but DTR+ worked fine for the entire day.
I’ll keep you posted since I believe this a nice study case distronic issues.
I don't know where that module is located, but did have intermittent failure where just about everything was "unavailable" - difference is mine would go into Limp mode. Pull over and cycle ignition and it was gone for some amount of time. Strange as it seemed to me, it was the throttle sending unit. MB first repaired it with "new pins" (contacts?) and when it started up again 6 months later they replaced the throttle assembly - fine ever since. Good luck...
thank you for feedback, mine does not go to limp mode, it doesn’t show any powertrain issues, works like a dream. On mine before buying it it stood for a while on the dealer and the auxiliary battery was dead, so lots of systems were disabled. I closed the deal after replacing that battery. Maybe it’s something related with power issues, as stated by KEY08, which I’ll try to sort.
Still, does anyone know where the distronic control module is located? I’ve looked all over the internet and couldn’t find a clue. According to a picture on another post for w221 it is located on the floor under the passenger seat. Does anyone know if the w212 has modules on that location?
I’m talking about the main battery. Just so you know a 12v auto battery at 12.1 is 50% discharged. You need to be reading above 12.4, and 12.6 is a fully charged battery. If ECO is not initiating replace the main battery. Start with the easy stuff before you go rooting around and messing with modules/controls/ SAM
I’m talking about the main battery. Just so you know a 12v auto battery at 12.1 is 50% discharged. You need to be reading above 12.4, and 12.6 is a fully charged battery.
Thanks, I’ll take a reading tomorrow and post it. If it’s low I’ll put it on the charger. I hope you are right, even if it takes replacing the battery.
This morning I checked the battery voltage. It was at 12,07V. Starting the engine e goes to 14,4~14,5 as expected. So I disconnected the battery and put in on a charger.
Don’t have much hope on the battery since I drove the car for a couple of hours yesterday. And the charging system appears to be working properly.
I second the main battery. Same symptoms occurred with my wife’s GLE with similar voltage readings. I charged it with the CTEK and that resolved it. It’s been a couple of months without coming back. With COVID we are driving less so I’m trying to charge my cars monthly to keep them up.
On my E400 cab the module was mounted inside the front grill emblem, stopping me from installing an illuminated star. You may look there.
Mine doesn't have that star, it is the square one.
That is one of the radar sensors, not the main module.
I left the battery charging although it is not draining any current. The voltage level is now at 14,4. I tested unplugging the charger. It dropped to 12,7V.
I'll leave it connected to the charger for a few more hours and then check if the car starts on ECO mode with the DTR+ enabled.
Mine doesn't have that star, it is the square one.
That is one of the radar sensors, not the main module.
I left the battery charging although it is not draining any current. The voltage level is now at 14,4. I tested unplugging the charger. It dropped to 12,7V.
I'll leave it connected to the charger for a few more hours and then check if the car starts on ECO mode with the DTR+ enabled.
Thank you all for your replies.
I don't know how old your car is but a starter going bad can cause very low voltage and keep some of thye gizmos from starting up correctly. I had this issue and changing the starter fixed it. Starter was cranking the engine just fine but sometimes took a long crank or had to crank second time to start it.
I don't know how old your car is but a starter going bad can cause very low voltage and keep some of thye gizmos from starting up correctly. I had this issue and changing the starter fixed it. Starter was cranking the engine just fine but sometimes took a long crank or had to crank second time to start it.
The car is a 2013 w212. The battery is the original one, 7 years old.
Today after leaving the battery charging for several hours, I started the car and didn't go immediately to eco mode as it used to do. Eventually it goes to eco mode after driving for a couple of minutes. A few minutes after shutting down the engine the battery voltage dropped again to 12,1V, so I suppose it reached the end of it's lifetime.
I'll leave it charging o overnight in a last try to revive it. If not, it is time for a replacement.
The car is a 2013 w212. The battery is the original one, 7 years old.
Today after leaving the battery charging for several hours, I started the car and didn't go immediately to eco mode as it used to do. Eventually it goes to eco mode after driving for a couple of minutes. A few minutes after shutting down the engine the battery voltage dropped again to 12,1V, so I suppose it reached the end of it's lifetime.
I'll leave it charging o overnight in a last try to revive it. If not, it is time for a replacement.
7 years is a good life for the main battery - ours lasted 5 years and now I keep it on an AGM specific trickle charge when it is parked in the garage. Voltage is only one indicator - you really should see if it'll pass a load test, my bet is it won't...
My 2013 E550 battery lasted almost 8 years before I replaced it. On a few occasions before replacing it. I would start the car, and it wouldn't shift out of park. I would have to run it for a few minutes, shut it off, and it would then shift out of park when I restarted the engine. After replacing the battery, I also noticed that the backup camera wasn't working also when the car was first started. I agree with KEY08, that it's time for a new battery.
My 2013 E550 battery lasted almost 8 years before I replaced it. On a few occasions before replacing it. I would start the car, and it wouldn't shift out of park. I would have to run it for a few minutes, shut it off, and it would then shift out of park when I restarted the engine. After replacing the battery, I also noticed that the backup camera wasn't working also when the car was first started. I agree with KEY08, that it's time for a new battery.
I also agree. I left it connected to the charger for these couple of days, the behaviour is still the same. Just by switching the car on, without starting the engine, the voltage drops immediately from 12,8 to 12,1V.
I'm looking for a good deal on a new varta agm battery.
I also agree. I left it connected to the charger for these couple of days, the behaviour is still the same. Just by switching the car on, without starting the engine, the voltage drops immediately from 12,8 to 12,1V.
I'm looking for a good deal on a new varta agm battery.
Varta makes a good battery, in Germany, owned by a great Wisconsin company, I don't know where you're located, but if in the U.S. you can get a Diehard Platinum for less and a three year warranty.
Varta makes a good battery, in Germany, owned by a great Wisconsin company, I don't know where you're located, but if in the U.S. you can get a Diehard Platinum for less and a three year warranty.
Costco sells Interstate AGM Batteries with a 3 year warranty. Cost was less than $200 with core charge about 4 months ago.
Costco sells Interstate AGM Batteries with a 3 year warranty. Cost was less than $200 with core charge about 4 months ago.
I put in my car a Duralast Platinum battery from AutoZone for little shy of $200 a couple years ago now. Came with 3-year warranty that is close to expire I think. Has not had any issues with it at all.
Duralast is made by Clarios as is Varta too, the OEM battery. See below info from the net.
"In 2019 Johnson Controls sold their battery division to Clarios, LLC, who manufacture DieHard brand, along with Duralast, Varta, and AC Delco, as well as 20 other brands. For a time, DieHard batteries were also manufactured by Exide."