E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start Fully Synthetic

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Old 01-08-2021, 03:45 PM
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2016 E350 Sport
Originally Posted by pierrejoliat
Except on a 4 magic it won't get the last Quart out because the axle is in the way.
PJ, I think your answer is confusing. On a W212 RWD car, the suction method works well to remove all the oil (I've successfully removed all the oil on mine with a topsider). It's on the 4-matic cars (the exception) that the axle is in the way. Right?
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Old 01-08-2021, 03:49 PM
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2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition 4x4
odd. on the older engines, the dipstick tube ran all the way to the lowest spot in the oil pan, so there was no way NOT to get all the oil.
Old 01-08-2021, 08:20 PM
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12 E350 4Matic 13 E350 4Matic AMG Sport
Originally Posted by DFWdude
PJ, I think your answer is confusing. On a W212 RWD car, the suction method works well to remove all the oil (I've successfully removed all the oil on mine with a topsider). It's on the 4-matic cars (the exception) that the axle is in the way. Right?
You are correct sir! LCG has a 4matic, FL as well, I did also assume the 2WD people knew they didn't have a front axle through their oil pans as well.LOL

Last edited by pierrejoliat; 01-09-2021 at 10:25 AM.
Old 01-09-2021, 09:55 AM
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Mud
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I've used both top-suction and bottom drain at oil changes, seems that I get about the same amount either way. Since my oil changes are once a year at low miles a few ounces either way doesn't really matter. The drained M1 goes to the mower or other equipment. And I don't really worry that I'm not wringing every bit of use out of that oil - IMO fluids are the cheapest insurance you can buy.
But the main reason I use the bottom drain on my infrequent changes is that it lets me take a good inspection look underneath for anything out of wack, oil leaks, suspension boots, steering etc. That would never get done on!y looking at the top of the engine.
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Old 01-09-2021, 08:50 PM
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2014 E350 Sport 4Matic Sedan
Originally Posted by Mud
I've used both top-suction and bottom drain at oil changes, seems that I get about the same amount either way. Since my oil changes are once a year at low miles a few ounces either way doesn't really matter. The drained M1 goes to the mower or other equipment. And I don't really worry that I'm not wringing every bit of use out of that oil - IMO fluids are the cheapest insurance you can buy.
But the main reason I use the bottom drain on my infrequent changes is that it lets me take a good inspection look underneath for anything out of wack, oil leaks, suspension boots, steering etc. That would never get done on!y looking at the top of the engine.
There really isn't any reason to obsess over getting every last ounce of oil out of the crankcase at an oil change. It is all but impossible to get all the motor oil out of the internals of an engine.

I'm not sure of the M276 engine in my E350, so I'll use the M273 that was in my SL550 as an example. Stated oil capacity for an oil and filter change is 9 quarts for the M273. But if the engine was rebuilt, it required 10.8 quarts to fill the engine back up. My wife's Outback is similar, which takes 5.1 quarts at oil and filter change, but total capacity is 6.0 quarts.

After I learned this, I no longer fret over whether a few ounces may be left in the oil pan when I use an oil extractor instead of pulling the drain plug.
Old 08-30-2021, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Gazwould
Simply put an oil's performance profile level is determined by the manufacturers specs it carries .









The best....

Is there a site or a forum where all these specs where compared?
Id love to read more on this if you still remember the source.
Old 08-30-2021, 12:38 PM
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https://360.lubrizol.com/Resources/R...formance-Tools
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