E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 11:41 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by VW2MB
Yeah I'll probably just update the bulbs or something. About all I can do short of a retrofit. It's just crazy that my old skool TSX projectors have way better output and cutoff. And when I say old...I mean like Pre-'06. I understand the LED/Laser lights are gonna just look better n brighter. But HIDs(unless many manufacturers don't use them anymore) on run of the mill cars, appear brighter...or...have a better sharper cutoff



Yes I have the auto lights and cornering lights. Again, on a street by myself that's dark? They are really good yes. But if I get out and hop in another vehicle with hids? Or even leds? (Not talking luxury cars either) the light output in combination with the cutoff and beam pattern make mine look weak. Yes my brights are incredible. And they do indeed light up signs as far as what seems like a mile. My year is 2012 with the auto cornering feature. Also wanted to confirm, that yes, my lights do indeed point the way they are supposed to. They aren't aimed low or anything. It's just the intensity of the beam itself that seems kinda faded.



When purchased(a year ago) car had 67k. It now has 78k. Yeah may go with the nightbreakers. It was between them and the phillips gen 2 XV2. Is there any reason or science behind why other cars headlights appear brighter while in your own car? I understand most car companies use different headlamp builds, but aren't all bulbs made my essentially only a handful of companies? Unless they produce their own ballasts but outsource the bulbs then I get it.

And yes, I have the lil angel shield looking burn in. I just don't understand this. I've owned multiple cars with HIDs and even aftermarket HIDs (55w) with projectors and reflectors...what about this model makes the burn in happen?



Well I will definitely say I was completely unaware of this function. The only time I remotely see something like this happen, is when I have the automatic feature on, and my brights come one...once a car pops up practically 3/4 of a mile down the road facing me? The lights automatically adjust down until they pass and then the brights come back on. But my understanding was that the brights simply turn off and back on automatically rather than the low beams adjusting also while brights are not illuminated. Fog light setting? Confused about this as well. I thought that's what the LED parking lights below the bumper are for. Plus when I press the fog button anyways, it turns on the rear fog light inside the taillight...
If you have Bi-Xenon lights the led light bar below bumper is the Daytime Running Light. When fog lights are ON the DRL turn OFF because DRL is made to shine light in every direction for the cars visibility to others. In fog you want light that does not shine anything up as it would blind you against the fog.

The way the lights in my 2011 E350 worked is as follows:

When the lights are on AUTO and ADAPTIVE head lights is set ON in the cluster menu and the light control stalk is pushed forward in the Hi- beam position the head lights automatically adjust or ADAPT to the distance to the car in front of me. The Lo- beams stay ON until the red tail lights disappear in the distance way out. It seems the Hi- beams do not come ON no matter how far the car is as far as I can see it. The head lights adjust to very far illuminating the road better than most cars with Hi-beams do but stay on Lo- beam. When the red tail lights disappear and there is no on-coming traffic the head lights switch to Hi-beam. These lights are just awesome for highway driving as very seldom you have situation where the Hi-beams can be used and normal Lo-beams do not give much lighted distance in front of the car. Perhaps this is why so many cars and trucks have their Lo- beams adjusted way too high that blind others.

While driving in fog condition the Bi-xenon lights take fog light position. This happens when the fog light button next to the main light switch is pressed. This sets the main driving lights to the minimum distance, it turns the DRL OFF and the rear left fog light ON. Yes, in the 2011 E350 (and current 2010 E550) the DRL light bar (hockey stick) stays ON with the main head lights but it is on lowered power. Somewhere I read it is at 30% power compared to full power during daytime driving.

My 2010 E550 lights work the same as above but it does not have the fog light button next to the main light switch. I have to turn the main switch to ON position (normally keep it in AUTO) and pull the switch knob out.

The Bi-xenon head lights on the 2010-2011 are the best lights of any car I have ever been in. My 2013 S550 has Bi-xenon lights but they do not give light on road nearly as well as in the E-class. I don't think the adaptation part works, just the switch between Hi-beam and Lo-beam. S also has separate Hi-beam light fixtures in the front but still the lights on my E550 give better lighting of the road.
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 12:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3
For me, 7000k is way too blue and I'm not a fan of the color temp of many LED lights I see on vehicles (too harsh). I did see the Osram Night Breaker which is 4200k (typical OE), which supposed 200% more light... only $180/pair.

I know we refer to it as etching, but I'm not sure that's known... as literature says is off-gassing of plastic, which just happens to "collect" in a V pattern. The lenses are PC and I don't think isopropyl alcohol is strong enough to affect the surface. The kit does not come with the cleaner (separate) and nor any protective coating. So I imagine, unless the gassing stops, that it becomes more a "maintenance" item every few years.
Teroson is an adhesives company owned by Henkel, the MSDS shows 97% IPA so it must be strong enough to eat polycarbonate and evaporate quickly, the V pattern is formed by heating the natural oils in PC until they evaporate and stain the inside surface, so it would make sense it could be cleaned off, question is without relubricating the PC how long will the "V" stay gone ?
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 01:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Arrie
If you have Bi-Xenon lights the led light bar below bumper is the Daytime Running Light. When fog lights are ON the DRL turn OFF because DRL is made to shine light in every direction for the cars visibility to others. In fog you want light that does not shine anything up as it would blind you against the fog.

The way the lights in my 2011 E350 worked is as follows:

When the lights are on AUTO and ADAPTIVE head lights is set ON in the cluster menu and the light control stalk is pushed forward in the Hi- beam position the head lights automatically adjust or ADAPT to the distance to the car in front of me. The Lo- beams stay ON until the red tail lights disappear in the distance way out. It seems the Hi- beams do not come ON no matter how far the car is as far as I can see it. The head lights adjust to very far illuminating the road better than most cars with Hi-beams do but stay on Lo- beam. When the red tail lights disappear and there is no on-coming traffic the head lights switch to Hi-beam. These lights are just awesome for highway driving as very seldom you have situation where the Hi-beams can be used and normal Lo-beams do not give much lighted distance in front of the car. Perhaps this is why so many cars and trucks have their Lo- beams adjusted way too high that blind others.

While driving in fog condition the Bi-xenon lights take fog light position. This happens when the fog light button next to the main light switch is pressed. This sets the main driving lights to the minimum distance, it turns the DRL OFF and the rear left fog light ON. Yes, in the 2011 E350 (and current 2010 E550) the DRL light bar (hockey stick) stays ON with the main head lights but it is on lowered power. Somewhere I read it is at 30% power compared to full power during daytime driving.

My 2010 E550 lights work the same as above but it does not have the fog light button next to the main light switch. I have to turn the main switch to ON position (normally keep it in AUTO) and pull the switch knob out.

The Bi-xenon head lights on the 2010-2011 are the best lights of any car I have ever been in. My 2013 S550 has Bi-xenon lights but they do not give light on road nearly as well as in the E-class. I don't think the adaptation part works, just the switch between Hi-beam and Lo-beam. S also has separate Hi-beam light fixtures in the front but still the lights on my E550 give better lighting of the road.
Yeah I believe your MY works different from mine. I only have adaptive hi beam in my settings.
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 02:11 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by VW2MB
Yeah I believe your MY works different from mine. I only have adaptive hi beam in my settings.
correct, yours are one year newer and better, something is wrong with your car, maybe go to the dealer and have the lights set correctly

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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 02:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pierrejoliat
correct, yours are one year newer and better, something is wrong with your car, maybe go to the dealer and have the lights set correctly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBsCaiSENbI
My lights are adjusted perfectly fine. They reflect off things far down the road. Aiming was never the issue. It was the useable light output on the road itself when it dimly lit to moderately lit conditions. Again, on a dark road by myself? Without high beams....say a rural back road? Perfect lighting. Most times don't even need my hi beams. But in city driving they are just, ok ish. Even a match is bright in a dark room. But turn on something as small as a nightlight and that light is far less bright or useable(at least to our eyes.). Wish I could post a pic honestly. But I have a thread on here that shows how my lights are....or at least similar. They aren't mine exactly. Let me check..
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 08:43 PM
  #31  
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Cleaning the inside of the lens would require removing not just the bulb but the projector.. but if it would work, I would consider it.

Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
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Old Jan 25, 2021 | 11:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
Cleaning the inside of the lens would require removing not just the bulb but the projector.. but if it would work, I would consider it.

Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
The cleaning pad is introduced thru the cornering light or just above it the reflector assembly has a space.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 09:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
Cleaning the inside of the lens would require removing not just the bulb but the projector.. but if it would work, I would consider it.

Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
Looking for replacement HID Bulbs for the Bi-Xenons on my car as well. Do you know if we are to choose the CBB D1S or CBB D3S? They both look the same and am not sure which one to chooose.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 10:15 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pierrejoliat
correct, yours are one year newer and better, something is wrong with your car, maybe go to the dealer and have the lights set correctly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBsCaiSENbI
How are those lights better? All I read is MB disabled the adaptive low beam function on later cars and the only thing left is the switch between low beam to high beam. I had that in my 1985 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. There is no adaptation to the distance of car ahead. This hardly makes the lights better.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:55 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Arrie
How are those lights better? All I read is MB disabled the adaptive low beam function on later cars and the only thing left is the switch between low beam to high beam. I had that in my 1985 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. There is no adaptation to the distance of car ahead. This hardly makes the lights better.
I agree.


This, is what mine look like. On a slope with the beam spread in one area. One would think it would be rather intense. However it isn't. It's...average? So that leads me to believe, yeah, it's time to replace them. And don't let the lights surrounding the area fool you into thinking they're bright. 1-10 I'd give these about a 5.5-6 on a good day.


EDIT: Again, let me emphasize....I'm on a slope. Like, a steep decline so much that I have to make sure the front doesn't rub. And they still look, moderately bright? Imagine them spread across a normal beam pattern 25ft in front?
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 09:24 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Arrie
How are those lights better? All I read is MB disabled the adaptive low beam function on later cars and the only thing left is the switch between low beam to high beam. I had that in my 1985 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. There is no adaptation to the distance of car ahead. This hardly makes the lights better.
If you have a chance to compare them, you can see the minor changes they made from '10 through '13, less prone to burn in and more venting to prevent overheating, I just assumed these were improvements to the light fixture. I believe the xenons in my '13 are about the best lights I ever had. That's why I'm confused by VW's posts. Maybe an upgraded bulb will help, my bulbs are original and granted I don't drive much at night, certainly if I changed one, I would see the difference.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 03:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SEPicks
Looking for replacement HID Bulbs for the Bi-Xenons on my car as well. Do you know if we are to choose the CBB D1S or CBB D3S? They both look the same and am not sure which one to chooose.
From what I can see it would be D1S but you will want to double check this. I don't own the car and am going off the bulb guide I found.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 04:41 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by pierrejoliat
If you have a chance to compare them, you can see the minor changes they made from '10 through '13, less prone to burn in and more venting to prevent overheating, I just assumed these were improvements to the light fixture. I believe the xenons in my '13 are about the best lights I ever had. That's why I'm confused by VW's posts. Maybe an upgraded bulb will help, my bulbs are original and granted I don't drive much at night, certainly if I changed one, I would see the difference.
Yeah maybe the previous owner drove a TON at night. It was a government official after all. Who knows. But yeah maybe I just need to switch bulbs. See the difference. Also, yes our cars use D1S. But are they inferior to D3S? In light output...
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 07:40 PM
  #39  
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This https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...D3S-xenon-bulb says D3S have a different connector, and operate at a different voltage, they are NOT interchangeable.
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:31 PM
  #40  
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There is no performance difference between D1S and D3S. D3S has a higher pressure of the gasses inside the capsule and is mercury free. D1S contains mercury.

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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
There is no performance difference between D1S and D3S. D3S has a higher pressure of the gasses inside the capsule and is mercury free. D1S contains mercury.
So other than a safety hazard when handling, there's no difference to the bulbs? After driving past a CLS last night, I realized the issue is definitely with my bulbs. Will be looking into XV2 or NB
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:40 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by VW2MB
So other than a safety hazard when handling, there's no difference to the bulbs? After driving past a CLS last night, I realized the issue is definitely with my bulbs. Will be looking into XV2 or NB
These aren't interchangeable. You still have to use D1S, I was just saying in terms of performance D3S is not better.. just a newer generation.
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:40 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
These aren't interchangeable. You still have to use D1S, I was just saying in terms of performance D3S is not better.. just a newer generation.
No I already know they aren't interchangeable lol. I have only been speaking in terms of performance.
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:50 PM
  #44  
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Yeah, performance wise there should be no difference at all.
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