Poor lighting xenon lights




Yes I have the auto lights and cornering lights. Again, on a street by myself that's dark? They are really good yes. But if I get out and hop in another vehicle with hids? Or even leds? (Not talking luxury cars either) the light output in combination with the cutoff and beam pattern make mine look weak. Yes my brights are incredible. And they do indeed light up signs as far as what seems like a mile. My year is 2012 with the auto cornering feature. Also wanted to confirm, that yes, my lights do indeed point the way they are supposed to. They aren't aimed low or anything. It's just the intensity of the beam itself that seems kinda faded.
When purchased(a year ago) car had 67k. It now has 78k. Yeah may go with the nightbreakers. It was between them and the phillips gen 2 XV2. Is there any reason or science behind why other cars headlights appear brighter while in your own car? I understand most car companies use different headlamp builds, but aren't all bulbs made my essentially only a handful of companies? Unless they produce their own ballasts but outsource the bulbs then I get it.
And yes, I have the lil angel shield looking burn in. I just don't understand this. I've owned multiple cars with HIDs and even aftermarket HIDs (55w) with projectors and reflectors...what about this model makes the burn in happen?
Well I will definitely say I was completely unaware of this function. The only time I remotely see something like this happen, is when I have the automatic feature on, and my brights come one...once a car pops up practically 3/4 of a mile down the road facing me? The lights automatically adjust down until they pass and then the brights come back on. But my understanding was that the brights simply turn off and back on automatically rather than the low beams adjusting also while brights are not illuminated. Fog light setting? Confused about this as well. I thought that's what the LED parking lights below the bumper are for. Plus when I press the fog button anyways, it turns on the rear fog light inside the taillight...
The way the lights in my 2011 E350 worked is as follows:
When the lights are on AUTO and ADAPTIVE head lights is set ON in the cluster menu and the light control stalk is pushed forward in the Hi- beam position the head lights automatically adjust or ADAPT to the distance to the car in front of me. The Lo- beams stay ON until the red tail lights disappear in the distance way out. It seems the Hi- beams do not come ON no matter how far the car is as far as I can see it. The head lights adjust to very far illuminating the road better than most cars with Hi-beams do but stay on Lo- beam. When the red tail lights disappear and there is no on-coming traffic the head lights switch to Hi-beam. These lights are just awesome for highway driving as very seldom you have situation where the Hi-beams can be used and normal Lo-beams do not give much lighted distance in front of the car. Perhaps this is why so many cars and trucks have their Lo- beams adjusted way too high that blind others.
While driving in fog condition the Bi-xenon lights take fog light position. This happens when the fog light button next to the main light switch is pressed. This sets the main driving lights to the minimum distance, it turns the DRL OFF and the rear left fog light ON. Yes, in the 2011 E350 (and current 2010 E550) the DRL light bar (hockey stick) stays ON with the main head lights but it is on lowered power. Somewhere I read it is at 30% power compared to full power during daytime driving.
My 2010 E550 lights work the same as above but it does not have the fog light button next to the main light switch. I have to turn the main switch to ON position (normally keep it in AUTO) and pull the switch knob out.
The Bi-xenon head lights on the 2010-2011 are the best lights of any car I have ever been in. My 2013 S550 has Bi-xenon lights but they do not give light on road nearly as well as in the E-class. I don't think the adaptation part works, just the switch between Hi-beam and Lo-beam. S also has separate Hi-beam light fixtures in the front but still the lights on my E550 give better lighting of the road.




I know we refer to it as etching, but I'm not sure that's known... as literature says is off-gassing of plastic, which just happens to "collect" in a V pattern. The lenses are PC and I don't think isopropyl alcohol is strong enough to affect the surface. The kit does not come with the cleaner (separate) and nor any protective coating. So I imagine, unless the gassing stops, that it becomes more a "maintenance" item every few years.
The way the lights in my 2011 E350 worked is as follows:
When the lights are on AUTO and ADAPTIVE head lights is set ON in the cluster menu and the light control stalk is pushed forward in the Hi- beam position the head lights automatically adjust or ADAPT to the distance to the car in front of me. The Lo- beams stay ON until the red tail lights disappear in the distance way out. It seems the Hi- beams do not come ON no matter how far the car is as far as I can see it. The head lights adjust to very far illuminating the road better than most cars with Hi-beams do but stay on Lo- beam. When the red tail lights disappear and there is no on-coming traffic the head lights switch to Hi-beam. These lights are just awesome for highway driving as very seldom you have situation where the Hi-beams can be used and normal Lo-beams do not give much lighted distance in front of the car. Perhaps this is why so many cars and trucks have their Lo- beams adjusted way too high that blind others.
While driving in fog condition the Bi-xenon lights take fog light position. This happens when the fog light button next to the main light switch is pressed. This sets the main driving lights to the minimum distance, it turns the DRL OFF and the rear left fog light ON. Yes, in the 2011 E350 (and current 2010 E550) the DRL light bar (hockey stick) stays ON with the main head lights but it is on lowered power. Somewhere I read it is at 30% power compared to full power during daytime driving.
My 2010 E550 lights work the same as above but it does not have the fog light button next to the main light switch. I have to turn the main switch to ON position (normally keep it in AUTO) and pull the switch knob out.
The Bi-xenon head lights on the 2010-2011 are the best lights of any car I have ever been in. My 2013 S550 has Bi-xenon lights but they do not give light on road nearly as well as in the E-class. I don't think the adaptation part works, just the switch between Hi-beam and Lo-beam. S also has separate Hi-beam light fixtures in the front but still the lights on my E550 give better lighting of the road.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBsCaiSENbI
Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
Also, about the CBBs - ignore that it says 7000k. This is not accurate. Real color temperature is 5450K and they provide far better output than factory HID bulbs in either our Macan or Soul Turbo, both using D3S bulbs.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBsCaiSENbI
This, is what mine look like. On a slope with the beam spread in one area. One would think it would be rather intense. However it isn't. It's...average? So that leads me to believe, yeah, it's time to replace them. And don't let the lights surrounding the area fool you into thinking they're bright. 1-10 I'd give these about a 5.5-6 on a good day.
EDIT: Again, let me emphasize....I'm on a slope. Like, a steep decline so much that I have to make sure the front doesn't rub. And they still look, moderately bright? Imagine them spread across a normal beam pattern 25ft in front?










