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I still have regrets not hopping on a low mileage 2014 E550 available at the time, vice my low mileage 2016 E350. The air shocks (airmatic) were something I wasn't sure about on the E550 because of maintenance and one of the reasons I went for the E350. If that one is sans air suspension IMO that's a plus +.
Last edited by mtnman82; Jan 25, 2021 at 10:58 PM.
I still have regrets not hopping on a low mileage 2014 E550 available at the time, vice my low mileage 2016 E350. The air shocks (airmatic) were something I wasn't sure about on the E550 because of maintenance and one of the reasons I went for the E350. If that one is sans air suspension IMO that's a plus +.
I hear you on the regret, but; my '03 S500 cost me 6700 to get all four air struts, compressor and valve body replaced, that was a hard pill to swallow, best riding car I ever had though, better than my '07 S550. That's why in '12 I wanted steel springs!
I hear you on the regret, but; my '03 S500 cost me 6700 to get all four air struts, compressor and valve body replaced, that was a hard pill to swallow, best riding car I ever had though, better than my '07 S550. That's why in '12 I wanted steel springs!
Worst case airmatic scenario on E550 I'd ball-park $3k for struts, springs, compressor and valve body (no labor). Obviously, if you catch and fix leaks early... you'll likely save the compressor and valve body (~$1k). Seems like the rear springs (cheapest part) are the ones that fail the first or a broken airline... people ignore that $30-500 repair and then it becomes thousands.
Worst case airmatic scenario on E550 I'd ball-park $3k for struts, springs, compressor and valve body (no labor). Obviously, if you catch and fix leaks early... you'll likely save the compressor and valve body (~$1k). Seems like the rear springs (cheapest part) are the ones that fail the first or a broken airline... people ignore that $30-500 repair and then it becomes thousands.
Wow, I was on a trip home from Jersey, light came on as I crossed the Ohio line, by the time I drove the next 2 hours the compressor had run for hours, so I put one in, about two months later, I crossed a road construction site with uneven pavement and heard a very loud boom, right rear blew the airbag so I put two new rear struts on, four months later the front was sagging overnight, so I put a new valve body in, that slowed it way down but I had cracks in the top of the front strut mounts, so I replaced both fronts. Car was about ten years old at the time and around 56k miles. Lack of maintenance? I think not... Without going back through old invoices, I remember the parts were around 3700.00 labor on those four repairs was the rest.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Jan 26, 2021 at 09:45 AM.
Wow, I was on a trip home from Jersey, light came on as I crossed the Ohio line, by the time I drove the next 2 hours the compressor had run for hours, so I put one in, about two months later, I crossed a road construction site with uneven pavement and heard a very loud boom, right rear blew the airbag so I put two new rear struts on, four months later the front was sagging overnight, so I put a new valve body in, that slowed it way down but I had cracks in the top of the front strut mounts, so I replaced both fronts. Car was about ten years old at the time and around 56k miles. Lack of maintenance? I think not... Without going back through old invoices, I remember the parts were around 3700.00 labor on those four repairs was the rest.
What's interesting here, the first issue... why did the compressor run for so long? I've noticed on the W212 there's a "lock-out" feature if the compressor runs for too long (duty-cycle). As I tripped it, while running a bunch of Xentry tests. Seems like a built-in feature to "preserve" the compressor to an extent... granted, how it actually work while driving I don't know. For example, you have a chronic leaking spring/s, will it sacrifice the compressor to allow for continued driving or does is bottom out because the compressor locks-out at a certain point and your being flat-beded.
*edit*
and to add, the maintenance or repair comment wasn't directed to you, just you brought up the cost of repair and with labor I could see it being a few more thousand for sure.
What's interesting here, the first issue... why did the compressor run for so long? I've noticed on the W212 there's a "lock-out" feature if the compressor runs for too long (duty-cycle). As I tripped it, while running a bunch of Xentry tests. Seems like a built-in feature to "preserve" the compressor to an extent... granted, how it actually work while driving I don't know. For example, you have a chronic leaking spring/s, will it sacrifice the compressor to allow for continued driving or does is bottom out because the compressor locks-out at a certain point and your being flat-beded.
*edit*
and to add, the maintenance or repair comment wasn't directed to you, just you brought up the cost of repair and with labor I could see it being a few more thousand for sure.
Well first, it was a '03 S500, so different than the E"s second, I believe it was the strut was leaking in a "fold" of the rubber on the side that didn't blow up {left rear} very slowly, but we brought a lot of stuff home from New York, wife shops a little. so we were heavier on the way home, luggage and needful things, the trunk was packed. The compressor is on a relay and will shut down when it's hot, but does come back on in a few minutes again after shutdown so as you suspected, slightly protected and the system will sacrifice the compressor for ride height if your driving, first a yellow warning, then the dreaded red warning of death and flatbed need! While driving I only got the yellow, when I blew the strut it was red and going nowhere! I never had issues with any air lines or the pressure tank, but I could see how if you got one in a line, it would be a monumental task to remove all the interior pieces to find it. This car also had soft-close doors, air door locks, massage seats, soft close trunk and air rear headrest up and down, but that was the compressor in the trunk with it's own set of air lines.
As I'm corresponding here, I' m writing the maintenance procedures for a just completed 80 MGY ethanol plant just constructed, sorry, I get a little sensitive about Maintenance!
Wow, I was on a trip home from Jersey, light came on as I crossed the Ohio line, by the time I drove the next 2 hours the compressor had run for hours, so I put one in, about two months later, I crossed a road construction site with uneven pavement and heard a very loud boom, right rear blew the airbag so I put two new rear struts on, four months later the front was sagging overnight, so I put a new valve body in, that slowed it way down but I had cracks in the top of the front strut mounts, so I replaced both fronts. Car was about ten years old at the time and around 56k miles. Lack of maintenance? I think not... Without going back through old invoices, I remember the parts were around 3700.00 labor on those four repairs was the rest.
I don’t think it is maintenance as there is no maintenance to perform on air springs. I think it is mostly time, the 10 years or so, that dry rots the rubber. Your springs went out at around 56k miles, mine went at around 160k miles so mileage is way different but the time is about the same 10 years.
I bought parts (no compressor) for about $2800 or so. Did the work myself, which is very easy job front and rear. Hardest part is to jack the car up and take the wheel off for the job.
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