Droning noise




if its tied to the engine speed, I'd be lookin ga tthe engine+transmission mounts, exhaust pipe holders, etc.
also while coasting at speed in N, very lightly apply the brakes, does the pitch or tone change ? if it ONLY changes with road speed, I'd be looking at the drive shaft... center bearing can make some pretty strange noises when they are failing. and if the flex disks are cracked, eeeek, change them out before they disintegrate, they can do a LOT of damage if they let go while you are driving.
if its tied to the engine speed, I'd be lookin ga tthe engine+transmission mounts, exhaust pipe holders, etc.
also while coasting at speed in N, very lightly apply the brakes, does the pitch or tone change ? if it ONLY changes with road speed, I'd be looking at the drive shaft... center bearing can make some pretty strange noises when they are failing. and if the flex disks are cracked, eeeek, change them out before they disintegrate, they can do a LOT of damage if they let go while you are driving.




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if it was a low speed noise, I'd suggest driving with both driver side windows wide open next to a smooth concrete barrier wall, and listen to the car noises reflected off that wall, but at higher speeds the wind noise would raise havoc.




I do think it’s either bearing on the wheel, center bearing on the driveshaft, or brake pad drag.
it’s going to the shop on Monday to figure it out. I’ll let you know if we get it fixed. I know exactly what you’re dealing with. Seems like front drivers side wheel (thinking bearing or brakes), but after a while your not sure if it isn’t directly under you around the transmission area (thinking prop shaft bearing or maybe flex disk tear).
I do not think it’s front diff. I think it’s either in the wheel, the wheel, or driveshaft. Again, mine has all new MB mounts for the trans and engine. But I wonder since the old trans mount was so compressed that it didn’t toss the driveshaft out of balance and accelerated that center bearing wear and tear. I’ll find out next week. These guys are good where I take it to. Told them to keep it as long as they need it, drive it at highway speed, just do whatever they need to figure it out. Mine is getting louder too. I have done the kick it to N at 80mph as well, and the sound doesn’t change. Nor does it really change with a gentle tap of the brakes. It’s a constant low decibel humming noise that shows up in the 50-80mph range.... no vibration in the car either, smooth as glass (once the tires warm up and soften out the flat spots after sitting for weeks at a time).
Last edited by nc211; Mar 11, 2021 at 11:24 PM.
Wheel bearings can be checked for play and rotated for feel. Another trick is driving in a big circle or freeway on/off ramp. Helpful when it’s only on one side. It can alter to noise or eliminate it.
Diff is a difficult one, besides checking for obvious debris in the oil.
Prop shaft or center bearing can be tested by getting the rpms up 4-5k and letting off. If its out of balance or the bearing is shot you’ll feel and hear it in the trans tunnel.
















The indi is suggesting a trip to the dealership to diagnose. I don’t want to do that because I am willing to bet they’ll say entire transmission, rear bumper, radio, windshield wipers. If it goes down the road of a transmission (which I really struggle with that idea), then this car goes bye bye. But I really don’t think that’s the issue. My transmission is silky smooth and operates flawlessly with no symptoms of any kind of trouble. I also struggle with the idea of the front differential since it the AWD is fixed with 55% on the rear and only 55k miles.
You pop the car in neutral at highway speed and it makes no difference.
but... when you apply the brakes, it takes maybe 3 seconds for the loud droning noise off the front rotors to appear, and the car yet again has that annoying shimmy. It’s leading me to the front rotors which now have 30k miles on them (along with the pads). I am leaning towards blanks and different pads to see if that fixes it.
Last edited by nc211; Mar 16, 2021 at 09:51 AM.








but... when you apply the brakes, it takes maybe 3 seconds for the loud droning noise off the front rotors to appear, and the car yet again has that annoying shimmy. It’s leading me to the front rotors which now have 30k miles on them (along with the pads). I am leaning towards blanks and different pads to see if that fixes it.
I spent two weeks going back and forth between wheel bearing, ball joint, engine mounts, wheel balance, drive shaft, u joint, flex disc, differential, carrier bearing as alignment. All of which is in good shape!
I took the car to AAMCO, and they said it’s a bad transmission but couldn’t tell me what exactly was bad. So I am going for 2 more opinions... one at another transmission spot and another at an import specialist.
Help! I really want to keep the car but It’s not worth 4K to fix it.




if its not been done in ages, you could *try* a drain trans + torque converter, drop pan, clean and change filter, refill, and see if that helps, but your symptoms sound like actual damage.
no way no how would I let Aamco or any other big chain shop touch it.
I would find a Mercedes or general european indie shop who's worked on that vintage Mercedes, and have them install a transmission from their preferred rebuilder, OR if you are in the USA (your profile doesn't say), get a rebuild from Sun Valley in southern California, and have a local import indie shop swap it and send your blown tranny back as the 'core'. around here, swapping a transm,ission is $1000-1200 labor, and a rebuild 7G is probably $3500 or something.
btw, a 2007 E320 is *NOT* a W212. I believe thats a post-facelift W211, and I do think it has an earlier version of the 7G transmission that our 212's have. A Sun Valley rebuild will be a better-than-original transmission as they update the things that fail.


