S-Prihadi

Hi Guys,

Does anyone knows specific function/assignment/duty/whatnot of 30L ?
I have looked at DIN wiring numbers, there is no L.
I seen MB WIS for wiring/symbol/abbvs : L does not exist. 30, 30g and 30z only.



Thanks so much...

Left Coast Geek

where do those wires go on the other side of Z7/40z1 and z3 ?

Left Coast Geek

ok, I dug out that diagram for my 2016 E350 4M w/ full LED lighting... hah, whack, the left 'red/yellow' wire is spliced to a 'red/blue' wire on the other side of Z7/40z1, and the right red/blue one is spliced to red/yellow on the other side of z7/40z3, yeesh.

they connect through E2 (front lamp module) to the 'actuation module' and the 'headlamp control unit'.

circuit 30 is always unswitched power, so I bet these are the power to the headlight modules.

S-Prihadi

Thank you LC Geek,

I wanted to probe these 2 baby wires, but it is so tiny at 0.5mm wire and I am afraid to damage it by mere friction* of the probe needle ( *not accidental poking thru these baby wires insulator)
If I don't connect the connector to the light to access the connector side of its copper terminal ( female pin ), no CAN-H and CAN-L get to the light and light failure message on dash will light up.
I want to read these two small wires signal while it is in proper connection with the headlight assy.

The 2 positive power from the 2.5mm cables Black-red ( Z7/40z5 ) and Red ( Z7/40z4) are #30 as you can see in schematic and it is constantly powering the light even with ignition key out.
I was guessing and hoping the two baby 0.5mm wires #30L are trigger signal to power low beam and high beam thru some sort of electronic switch inside the LED Light Assy E2 for the
Black-red ( Z7/40z5 ) and Red ( Z7/40z4) to connect to designated devices in E2.

So best I thought, I need to asked about the "L" designation on a number 30.

I am trying to look for low beam and high beam analog +12 VDC signal , hoping I can use it to trigger a relay, when I want to add auxiliary lights.
This W212 is so full of CAN system, I feel hopeless when trying to look for good old analog +12 VDC signal.

Left Coast Geek

0.5 metric gauge is 0.5 mm^2 circular area, which is 0.80mm in diameter (0.5^2 * pi = 0.80). its roughly equivalent to 20 AWG, so thin but not THAT thin. that said, I usually try to backprobe a wire connector, at least if you can get the rubber shell off the back of it so you can stick a thin probe in the shell far enough to reach the contact crimp.

as far as aux lights go, I dunno, but my full LEDs put out more light than any car I've ever had before. yes, I used to add fog lamps to most any car that didn't have them

S-Prihadi

I will get a smaller backprobe kit.
The probe I have now is thick and insulated even at the probing shaft. I feel safer it is being insulated, when I bought it like a year ago.
Never get to use it till today... LOL
I also do not like to puncture wire insulator, not good for long term.




I will get this one below. Need the angled ones to work if connector installed and for future probing.



Maybe in the mean time I will try to see if I can push the rubber boot of the cable.
Its kind short to work with. My fingers are kinda crude, I hate working around fragile wires.
Remember in our old analog days, even Japanese cars don't use 0.5mm wires in engine bay...


This option 641/642 LED headlight is not bad, but not bright enough for me.
The last 5 years my right eye is degrading fast and its low light is bad.
I guess, too much nightvision Gen3 (green one ) single eye version monoscope use and those viewfinder camcorder use in my younger days is now claiming damage.

Also I don't like the way the LED 641/642 algorithm manages the front fog lamp, which can not be turned on independently from the rear one, unlike the older days.
I need to turn ON the rear one and then the headlight's small LED modules belonging to fog lamp group will light up and until only 70 KM/H.
It is not polite to turn ON rear fog lamp, unless it is really foggy.... which in my city at sea level and tropical temperature all year round, fog does not exist.
Albeit Mercedes is considered very polite compared to BMW and Audi and only have 1 side of rear lamp extra bright, yet I still don't like to discomfort the car behind me.
I like front fog lamp use because there are too much "dangers" on my roads which can benefit if I get a wider beam spread at close range and brighter.
A proper front fog lamp is a very "polite" non-glaring light.

While discussing fog lamp.....
This is an example how an Audi driver, who does not understand the proper use of a rear fog lamp and Audi itself choosing both rear lamps to have fog lamp this irritating, how miserable being behind such an idiot



Imagine opposite traffic headlight seems lame compared to this Audi rear azz. He wont let me pass too, even after I flashed high beam twice.




This option 641/642 LED's CRI value is still not good enough, I think it is 70-75 only and not 85-90.
Good CRI value I find very important on bad roads with no lines/marking and has red soil ( dirt ) on the side and some grass/green , the higher color rendering shows non asphalt surface better
and more so in the rain. Basically I use the red soil ( dirt ) as road marker...

Our asphalt in the rain look so shiny black, its very bad visibility at night compared to concrete roads/highway which is light grey and so nice and bright at night
when hit by our headlights. The Audi photos above, that is concrete highway. It is just my GoPro Hero 5 is not good in low light.
.

Left Coast Geek

and duh, you're right, 0.5mm2 is strictly small signal wire, not power for the actual LEDs, but maybe standby power for some of the control electronics.

S-Prihadi

With headlight in auto mode, but in OFF state, without connector connected to LED light assy (E2 right side ), I was reading the 2 small baby wires Z7/40z1 and z3.
These 2 are constantly powered ON too 12 VDC. It could be the car waking up because door open and key inserted in ignition, only inserted.
I hate the push to start button feature and I kept that button at the glove box ...
So when car woke up it probably does its routine check and talking to the rest of other modules.

Anyway, those 2 wires can't be used to trigger analog command for auxiliary light/s. That is so sad.


Still curious on 30L...........
I think I know what 30L means. It seems the L means it is spliced/jumpered to Left Light Assy cables, the E1. Probably some internal new wire code/symbol not published yet and referring to LEFT.
The model year 2014 is the big time face-lift for W212, and the engineers are modifying 2009 documents. I am not surprised if a modified/amended documents can cause confusion or has errors.
Starting from clean sheet is easier to spot error on documents.

Why I am suspecting so is because of below :

Think about it for a second.
Why would both E1 left and E2 right (640/641 LED Assy) received, each light the same type of signals 56b Low Beam on 2 separate wires Z7/40z1 and z3 ?
If you see the cyan color circle I wrote as SUSPECT, that is a 56a Hi-beam labeled as also 15M and 14M but pin number on connector side of Front SAM N10/1 is different.
I suspect that one of these two 0.5mm cable, by right must be from a 56a Hi Beam pin 1 or 10, that is the error.





The left light is the Boss. The right side lamp is the slave.

Headlamp control unit, basic function
Document : gf8210p9890a

Task
To implement the exterior lighting functions, the headlamp control units The headlamp control units are connected to the vehicle's network process, among others, the following information: architecture.
It operates in master-slave combination. As the master, the Variant coding left headlamp control unit synchronizes the right headlamp control unit.

Above is the reason I choose to work on the right side E2 LED module. I was hoping it is not as complex as the left one E1.
Whoever tasked to draw this diagram , I pity the dude. With so many options worldwide for W212, let alone making the diagram, reading it for MB schematic-newbie like me is a nightmare.....

Anyway, I seen many 640/641/642 Intelligent LED documents are actually in the next generation W213 or its similar time period documents.
Quite confusing for me to read a 641 ( mine ) but no W212 stated, instead newer model W213 stated.


MB documents error is not new, even the camber and caster correction bolts WIS is only correct for one side of the car.
MB WIS AR40.20-P-0263EW - Adjust camber and caster at the front axle - 28.02.2018
is only correct for 1 side of the wheel, which is if for CASTER, it is LEFT wheel and for CAMBER is the RIGHT wheel.
Such error wasted so much of my time last year and including useless and confusing 2 or 3 extra visit to an alignment shop.