Help Intermittent engine miss / stumble on a 2012 E550
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Joined: Aug 2016
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ML350, E550 Coupe, 53 F100, 458 Italia, 458 Spyder
Help Intermittent engine miss / stumble on a 2012 E550
I am experiencing a Intermittent engine miss / stumble on a 2012 E550 mostly when cold. I did change the spark plug boots since they were in poor condition. If I shut the car off open and close the door the problem goes away. No idiot lights show on the dash. I scanned the car and recovered the following codes which I have googled and did not find any information.
U0100 communication with combustion ecm faulty
u4010 data received from combustion ecm were implausible
u0416 data received from the traction system control module were implausible
Any Ideas?
U0100 communication with combustion ecm faulty
u4010 data received from combustion ecm were implausible
u0416 data received from the traction system control module were implausible
Any Ideas?
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From: 122W, 37N
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
those errors suggest a bad connection on a CANbus, of which these cars have like 6 or 8 different ones interconnecting dozens and dozens of different modules. CAN is sort of like an automotive ethernet, it uses a single twisted pair to send high speed digital data messages from any module to all the others on the same CANbus.
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
@Crunch69 you only replaced the spark plug boots? How many miles? Any other recent maintenance?
The codes appear to be communication or CAN related. My suggestion with CAN issues is to start with this:
The codes appear to be communication or CAN related. My suggestion with CAN issues is to start with this:
- THOROUGHLY test and verify the starting [main] battery to ensure its healthy, low voltage during cranking and while running can cause various problems
- does hurt to fully charge it first
- Disconnect main battery for 10 min
- Reconnect main battery and clear codes
- Rescan for codes
- Start engine and drive, see if codes and/or issue come back
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2016
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ML350, E550 Coupe, 53 F100, 458 Italia, 458 Spyder
current mileage 85K Mercedes replaced the cam position sensors just prior to going ou
current mileage 85K Mercedes replaced the cam position sensors just prior to going out of warranty. I did not drive the car for a couple of months after the repair and then it would occur intermittently and correct itself almost as fat as it occurred. Of course it has been to long to tie them to it. Is there a way to test which connectors are bad? Could I pull the plug from the cam sensor without harm to a running engine to see if the issue occurs? or could that be catastrophic?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2016
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ML350, E550 Coupe, 53 F100, 458 Italia, 458 Spyder
no oil in plugs have disconnected battery and cleared codes many times the issue might not occur for 30 days or more and then disappear after the car is shutdown the door is opened and closed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2016
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ML350, E550 Coupe, 53 F100, 458 Italia, 458 Spyder
current mileage 85K Mercedes replaced the cam tensors just prior to going ou
current mileage 85K Mercedes replaced the cam tensors just prior to going out of warranty. I did not drive the car for a couple of months after the repair and then it would occur intermittently and correct itself almost as fat as it occurred. Of course it has been to long to tie them to it. Is there a way to test which connectors are bad? Could I pull the plug from the cam sensor without harm to a running engine to see if the issue occurs? or could that be catastrophic?
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
You mean the issue occurs very infrequently... as in once every 30 days (or more) the problem will start. Once the problem starts, the only "solution" is turning the car off, opening and closing the driver's door?
I'm assuming you've tried to just turn the car off and restart? I'm wondering what the door opening/closing is doing... Are the codes always the same? To me it sounds like, the car is NOT driven much or sits for long periods of time. When you do start the car, the issue arises and then "fixes" itself. Only to reappear a long time later after its been sitting.
I'd be thinking a weak battery... sitting will cause a battery to lose charge and since you can still start the car its not totally dead. However it could be on the cusp of producing odd glitches typical of a weak battery.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2016
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ML350, E550 Coupe, 53 F100, 458 Italia, 458 Spyder
The problem might only show up every 6 months or so. How many volts should the battery be at? I only drive the car a few times a month for about 300 miles. I was told by a merc tech that opening and then closing the door does some sort of reset. I thought it was crazy but when the problem occurs turning the car off and restarting does not cure the issue it will not go away until the car is turned off the door is opened and closed and then restarted.
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From: Fredonia, WI
2012 E550 v8-Biturbo
Static (engine off), the battery should be approximately 12.5 volts. [When running, the system could charge the battery to 14+V, but that depends upon the driving condition]
If you don't drive much, you might consider getting a "battery tender" to keep the main battery charged well.
If you don't drive much, you might consider getting a "battery tender" to keep the main battery charged well.
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
for AGMs
~12.8 VDC = 100% charge
~12.6 VDC = 75% charge
Between 12.8 and 12.6 VDC would be good, engine off and no load. In addition, during starting the voltage should remain above 10 VDC. As far as opening and closing the door to reset, I'll honest is the first I've ever heard of such a thing.
~12.8 VDC = 100% charge
~12.6 VDC = 75% charge
Between 12.8 and 12.6 VDC would be good, engine off and no load. In addition, during starting the voltage should remain above 10 VDC. As far as opening and closing the door to reset, I'll honest is the first I've ever heard of such a thing.
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From: 122W, 37N
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
to determine the charge state, the battery voltages have to be measured when the battery has been resting with no charging and no load for an hour or so. the nominal voltages generally given assume the battery is about 68F/20C. when you first take a battery off a charger, its voltage is quite elevated, that's known as a 'float voltage', and it takes maybe an hour for that to go away. ditto when a battery is under a heavy current load, its voltage is quite depressed, when you shut that load off, the battery voltage will gradually recover to the charge state voltage.
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From: Fredonia, WI
2012 E550 v8-Biturbo
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
I can't say definitely, as I didn't have a W212 new... based on EPC P/Ns and what's in both my 2011s, they appear to be Varta VRLA AGMs made for MB.
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From: 122W, 37N
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
indeed, the Mercedes branded battery in my 2016 sure looks like an AGM, and when I use Deka's car & truck battery applications finder, and enter a 2016 Mercedes E350, it suggests an Intimidator AGM, either a 9A48 (760 CCA) or 9A49 (850 CCA), both AGM, and the notes on each say "AGM Valve-Regulated battery Required".
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From: Pepper Pike Ohio
24 GLS580 '23 E450 4matic 12 E350 4Matic
Both my '12 and '13 came with AGM batteries, I have replaced both, with AGM batteries. Both Varta/MB group 48, now group 49 Duralast Platinum/ Autozone
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Mar 14, 2021 at 05:21 PM.
