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Just picked up a 2012 E350 Convertible for the summer. I drive a 2020 E350 on a daily, so when this came along I couldn’t resist. I’m new to the w212 chassis as a whole. At one point I owned a 2009 E350 loaded with every single option available and loved it (sold it for a pretty penny too)
Anyway, based on what I have read the 212 is fairly reliable. The car currently has a 80k on it. Previous owner (private seller) did lots of oil changes, Wipers, a transmission pan gasket, differential flush, I believe and that’s it. What else is needed at 80k?
my last convertible was a Lexus ISC and the top was all electric. I believe these models have a hydraulic unit? I did notice a small tank with fluid behind a cover in the trunk but can’t figure out what it is..
yes, mercedes convertibles use hydraulics, and that tank in the trunk is indeed the hydraulic pump and reservoir for it. use ONLY the correct spec Mercedes hydraulic fluid or you'll gum up the works. if its dark, it should be flushed.
Just picked up a 2012 E350 Convertible for the summer. I drive a 2020 E350 on a daily, so when this came along I couldn’t resist. I’m new to the w212 chassis as a whole. At one point I owned a 2009 E350 loaded with every single option available and loved it (sold it for a pretty penny too)
Anyway, based on what I have read the 212 is fairly reliable. The car currently has a 80k on it. Previous owner (private seller) did lots of oil changes, Wipers, a transmission pan gasket, differential flush, I believe and that’s it. What else is needed at 80k?
my last convertible was a Lexus ISC and the top was all electric. I believe these models have a hydraulic unit? I did notice a small tank with fluid behind a cover in the trunk but can’t figure out what it is..
I would look up and do the 80k maintenance, I might look back through the 60 and 70k mile maintenance to see if you can verify that was done as well, nice car!
yes, mercedes convertibles use hydraulics, and that tank in the trunk is indeed the hydraulic pump and reservoir for it. use ONLY the correct spec Mercedes hydraulic fluid or you'll gum up the works. if its dark, it should be flushed.
I would look up and do the 80k maintenance, I might look back through the 60 and 70k mile maintenance to see if you can verify that was done as well, nice car!
previous owner did a transmission pan gasket around 65k a few oil changes a rear diff flush and wipers. Nothing crazy but was happy to see the trans pan gasket which also means new fluid. I had an 09 e350 and it had a widespread issue of a high pitch noise inside the rear diff, it was actually a piercing noise. Hoping I won’t ever have to deal with that’s again.
I ended up doing front pads and rotors at a local Indy and did the oil change my self (top side).
Ended up getting new wheels and 4 new tires. Not sure how I feel about it but it looks way better then the original wheels. 9.5 in the rear, 8.5 in the front.
Here’s a quick shot My e350 sedan creeping in the back.
service B was due in a matter of days when I took possession of the car.
re the top fluid, if you remove the carpet panel around the tank, the filler cap should be evident. the fluid should be pale gold and pretty clear, if its dark or dirty, you probably want to flush it, and no, I don't know the procedure on a late model cabrio, on my 1993 W124 cabrio, you suction out what fluid you can from the tank, top it off with fresh fluid, then disconnect the return line from the valve manifolds where it connects back into the tank, and use a hose to feed that into a waste container, then cycle the top several times, topping off the fluid each time it gets low, til it comes out clean and clear, then button it all back up, top it back up once last time, and replace the carpet cover
re: service, for my 2016 E350 the service schedule looks something like this (I summarized and condensed this list from the official docs, and only put in what's applicable to my E350 4matic wagon)
“A” Service at 12 months or 10,000 miles, then every 2 years or 20k (eg, odd 10k intervals)
“B” Service at 24 months or 20,000 miles, then every 2 years or 20k (eg, even 10k intervals)
Every 10k miles or year (A and B)
Read service data, reset ASSYST PLUS display (A,B)
Check warning/function lights (A,B)
Check interior and instrument lighting (A,B)
Check horn (A,B)
Check washer fluid (A,B)
Check exterior for visible damage (A,B)
Check windshield for damage (A,B)
Check wiper blades (A,B)
Oil and filter change (A,B)
Check brake fluid level (A,B)
Check coolant level (A,B)
Inspect tires (A,B)
Inspect brake pads, rotors (A,B)
Check/correct tire pressure (A,B)
Check/correct spare pressure (A,B)
Check first aid kit expiration (A,B)
Clean visible area of water deflector (A,B)
Check parking brake (A,B)
Every “B” (20k miles or 2 years)
Check exterior lighting (B)
Check wipers,washers (B)
Replace charcoal interior dust filter (B)
Check poly V belt for wear (B)
Check vehicle underside for leaks,damage (B)
Check tires for damage/cracks (B)
Check condition of steering, tie rods (B)
Check front axle and ball joints (B)
Check rear axle and ball joints (B)
Check spring/strut/shocks (B)
Check drive shaft flexible couplings (B)
Check power steering fluid (B)
Additional work:
Replace brake fluid - every 2 years
Clean/Lubricate Panoramic Roof - every 30K/3 years
Replace engine air filter - every 50k/5 years
Replace spark plugs - every 50k/5 years
Replace ATF oil/filter - every 60k/6 years
Replace fuel filter - every 150k/15 years
Last edited by Left Coast Geek; 05-21-2021 at 12:53 AM.
The bummer with offset wheel sizes is that they can't be rotated, and these cars tend to burn up back tires if you're a leadfoot. but they look cool, I guess.
I hope those aren't run-flats, they ride like they made of cement.
The bummer with offset wheel sizes is that they can't be rotated, and these cars tend to burn up back tires if you're a leadfoot. but they look cool, I guess.
I hope those aren't run-flats, they ride like they made of cement.
I do have a leadfoot. Luckily this is just a seasonal car, the tires should last a while. These are not run-flats, and I agree they ride very hard. These are Kuhmos or sumitomos I forget. The ride is great actually. On my 2020 E, it came with GoodYear's they are horrible....
I have friends who've had great luck with the Sumitomo's PO2's I believe, one has already gotten 45K miles out of his and good snow traction, likely not an issue for you!
I've always been a Michelin or Continental guy, but their cheaper than the DWS06's I love so much by 50 dollars a tire.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 05-21-2021 at 10:58 AM.
My 2016 wagon came with brand new Continental Contacts, the Mercedes specific 145/45R17 XL's, but they are pretty harsh, so when they wear down, I plan on giving Michelin Pilot AS a try. On my older cars I've been really happy with Michelin Primacy and Premier all seasons, 'grand touring' class, worked really well on both my Volvo wagons, and my W124s.
Last edited by Left Coast Geek; 05-22-2021 at 01:58 AM.
Absolutely love your E Class and it seems we are car twins as your car looks exactly like mine! I literally just purchased one two days ago as merely a weekend car and though it’s a 2012 I honestly think the style is unmatched in comparison to the rounded out newer models. I honestly can’t stop looking at it every morning and have to fight the urge daily not to drive it in comparison to my Volvo XC60. My fiancé has a 2019 E350 sedan which I love as well and it drives like luxury vehicle, (which it is) and the smoothness of the ride is undeniable. But I just love the agility of the 2012. So much power and intuitiveness. I can’t see enough about it. My brick red seats are just everything!
!
05-01-2021, 09:51 PM
