The starter in my 2010 E550 4M develops a slow to crank restart after running (engine at working temperature) think it's time to replace the starter.
Search both the forum and youtube some saying need to remove the cat some doesn't.
Anybody has the starter replacement bulletin info in PDF?
Thank you in advance!
Search both the forum and youtube some saying need to remove the cat some doesn't.
Anybody has the starter replacement bulletin info in PDF?
Thank you in advance!
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konigstiger
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- Join DateJul 2003
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- install starter.pdf (297.3 KB)
- bottom engine compartment paneling.pdf (646.7 KB)
- install components for exhaust system.pdf (152.3 KB)
Quote:
https://youtu.be/8fIZycPMhow
Originally Posted by konigstiger
OE part # 0061516001 (006151600188 = re-manufactured), see attachments.https://youtu.be/8fIZycPMhow
Thank you so much as usual Konigstiger!
You are definitely above and beyond and help me a ton through all these years.
Cheers
MBNUT1
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Don't think that I am completely down with their support system particularly in the back. Nice rumble on the restart.
Noyu,
I tackled this issue a couple years ago on my 2011 E550 4matic. It was a very straight forward replacement. I was lucky to use my friends lift. I removed part of the exhaust for easier access, again very straight forward. The best advise was to "pre-buy" the exhaust clamp that instantly broke when I applied any force to remove it, totally needed it. Just be sure you have the correct starter for your application. I was delivered the RWD version and it required a trip to the dealer to get the correct one. No big deal just slowed down the job.
Good luck!!
I tackled this issue a couple years ago on my 2011 E550 4matic. It was a very straight forward replacement. I was lucky to use my friends lift. I removed part of the exhaust for easier access, again very straight forward. The best advise was to "pre-buy" the exhaust clamp that instantly broke when I applied any force to remove it, totally needed it. Just be sure you have the correct starter for your application. I was delivered the RWD version and it required a trip to the dealer to get the correct one. No big deal just slowed down the job.
Good luck!!
Quote:
Search both the forum and youtube some saying need to remove the cat some doesn't.
Anybody has the starter replacement bulletin info in PDF?
Thank you in advance!
I replaced the starter on my 2010 E550 RWD and did not need to remove any exhaust components. I bought the starter from AutoZone and it was actually a little bit longer than the old starter but it still fit.Originally Posted by noyu
The starter in my 2010 E550 4M develops a slow to crank restart after running (engine at working temperature) think it's time to replace the starter.Search both the forum and youtube some saying need to remove the cat some doesn't.
Anybody has the starter replacement bulletin info in PDF?
Thank you in advance!
Just remember to disconnect the electrical wires first as it is a "fight" to get the starter out with the thick wire from battery connected. I learned this the hard way.
But the 4-matic may be different for the exhaust parts...?
Thank you all for the tips and suggestions.
I have a friend has a hoist and will tackle this in a safe environment without risking being injured.
I have mixed answer as well during my research as some said no need to remove the exhaust while other said it's neccessary, perhaps may be it's the difference between RWD and 4M.
Thanks again will keep everybody posted on my repair.
Cheers
I have a friend has a hoist and will tackle this in a safe environment without risking being injured.
I have mixed answer as well during my research as some said no need to remove the exhaust while other said it's neccessary, perhaps may be it's the difference between RWD and 4M.
Thanks again will keep everybody posted on my repair.
Cheers
Quote:
I have a friend has a hoist and will tackle this in a safe environment without risking being injured.
I have mixed answer as well during my research as some said no need to remove the exhaust while other said it's neccessary, perhaps may be it's the difference between RWD and 4M.
Thanks again will keep everybody posted on my repair.
Cheers
Yes, the difference is RWD vs 4M. Originally Posted by noyu
Thank you all for the tips and suggestions.I have a friend has a hoist and will tackle this in a safe environment without risking being injured.
I have mixed answer as well during my research as some said no need to remove the exhaust while other said it's neccessary, perhaps may be it's the difference between RWD and 4M.
Thanks again will keep everybody posted on my repair.
Cheers
For the 4M the starter is on the driver's side. There are 2 ways to replace: Remove the front part of the exhaust or - as I did - lower the steering rack.
Quote:
Thanks for your post.Originally Posted by E-Star
For the 4M the starter is on the driver's side. There are 2 ways to replace: Remove the front part of the exhaust or - as I did - lower the steering rack.
What's involved if I go with your method?
Do you mind to share some tips?
Thanks
Nothing special. 2 bolts for the steering rack and another 2 bolts for the attached board. All 4 have nuts on top. Start with disconnecting the steering coupling (just one bolt + nut), unplugging the cable for the steering valve and releasing 2 brackets for the hoses.
To avoid a misaligned steering wheel after reinstalling I marked the steering rack with a laser pointer, then loosened it a bit, pushed it to one side with a hammer and a piece of wood and measured the distance. Use the reverse procedure when putting it back together.
It's not an advanced job and you'll see what to do if it is in front of you.
To avoid a misaligned steering wheel after reinstalling I marked the steering rack with a laser pointer, then loosened it a bit, pushed it to one side with a hammer and a piece of wood and measured the distance. Use the reverse procedure when putting it back together.
It's not an advanced job and you'll see what to do if it is in front of you.
Quote:
To avoid a misaligned steering wheel after reinstalling I marked the steering rack with a laser pointer, then loosened it a bit, pushed it to one side with a hammer and a piece of wood and measured the distance. Use the reverse procedure when putting it back together.
It's not an advanced job and you'll see what to do if it is in front of you.
Originally Posted by E-Star
Nothing special. 2 bolts for the steering rack and another 2 bolts for the attached board. All 4 have nuts on top. Start with disconnecting the steering coupling (just one bolt + nut), unplugging the cable for the steering valve and releasing 2 brackets for the hoses.To avoid a misaligned steering wheel after reinstalling I marked the steering rack with a laser pointer, then loosened it a bit, pushed it to one side with a hammer and a piece of wood and measured the distance. Use the reverse procedure when putting it back together.
It's not an advanced job and you'll see what to do if it is in front of you.
Thank you for your detailed information.
I will Check everything once I get the car on a hoist and hopefully things will go smoothly as planned.
Thanks again








