Hi everyone and I hope Im not posting in the wrong place.
We have this 2014 e200 w212 that has 16k miles on the clock until now and I would like to hear on which Services are critical to undergo as to prevent anything from failing in the future.
Car has no issues whatsoever “knock on wood” but during my last visit to the dealer they told me it’s early to change transmission oil, and all the car needs is engine oil and filter changes as it’s low mileage, but I believe it’s not true.
It’s really hard to bring in original parts where I live and prices are astronomical to say the least, so I have to plan every service ahead of time.
I would also appreciate any knowledge about weak parts in the m274, or anything that should be looked after more than the normal.
Here is a picture of a car that’s very dear to my heart with my dearest father, we shared the love of cars since ages and this car, as normal as it may seem, was a dream of ours.
I apologize for the lengthy read, but she's a garage queen for a reason …

Just follow the maintenance schedule and you'll be fine... probably a little overkill given the lack of miles.

Nice looking E-Class.

Engine oil and filter
Cabin filters
Brake pads and rotors if needed
Transmission oil at 60k miles
Rear axle oil at 60k miles (MB doesn't specify this but I do on my vehicles)
Coolant replacement at 100k miles
Windshield wipers
Spark plugs at 50k miles
Engine air filter at 50k miles
Main and auxiliary batteries - with a 7 year old garage queen I would replace batteries now

The maintenance schedule can be found on this site using the search feature.

I really wanted to go that route even thought it’s overkill, but to give perspective MB engine oil is 30$ a liter where I live..
it would easily rank up to thousands of dollars nonetheless, so I don’t want to be doing the wrong stuff.

Thank You for the complement and the advise,
You are absolutely right I replaced them both the past month, but judging by how its going this means my grandson is the one who’s going to change spark plugs and coolant
Anyways, do you know where can I get most recent part numbers for the parts?

I'm going to sound like a dick... you say this thing is a prized possession, but at the same time is costs too much the maintain. When you start to diverge from recommended maintenance intervals, your kind of on your own. Usually these judgements are based on personal experience.

I wouldn't be buying oil from MB... any oil that meets the spec called out in the manual is fine. On top of that, if I was driving that infrequently I'd probably change it once every two years. A good battery maintainer will help from dying batteries from lack of driving.

I wouldn't replace fluid solely based on mileage, as short trips are typically "severe service" as compared to lots of long trips and cumulative miles. I would follow the maintenance schedule with the following caveats:

Engine Oil: 10k or 1-2 years
Coolant: every 10 years
Transmission Fluid : every 10 years
Rear Axle Fluid: 100k or 10 years
Spark Plugs: 60k (no time based)
Cabin Filter: 2-5 years
Engine Air Filter: 40k or 10 years

For me ~10 years, is that half-way point for a lot of these cars... usually your getting into them as the second or third owner. You do this maintenance to "reset", not knowing what the PO did. Things like tires, motor mounts, suspension bushings, seals all perish due to time... Best advise is to drive the car, its not going to be an heirloom.

I don't expect these cars to be kicking like W123 and W124s with all the modern electronics... when those start to go in the future, it won't be practical to repair them. Especially when a lot the work requires specialty tools and software, which the latter MB is putting the squeeze on for the average guy and indy.

Try:
mbparts.mbusa.com
mercedesbenzstarparts.com
fcpeuro.com

These sites will help you find part numbers. You will have to find the best way to order the parts for delivery to your location.

the maintenance schedule specifies 10000 mile OR 12 month intervals, alternating A and B services.

Use any oil that is on the appropriate spec sheet for your engine. the engine / spec table is here. https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf
most MB petrol engines use either 229.3 https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en.html (earlier) or 229.5 https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html (newer)
note that 229.5 is valid for either.
the oil should say MB APPROVAL 229.5 (or .3) on it, *not* "Meets MB 229.x".


I mangled up my own version of the US service table specifically for my 2016 E350 4matic wagon, and it came out like this...


“A” Service at 12 months or 10,000 miles/16000 km, then every 2 years or 20000 mi. (32000km) (eg, odd 10k intervals)

“B” Service at 24 months or 20,000 miles (32000 km), then every 2 years or 20000 miles (eg, even 10k intervals)
Every 10k miles or year (A and B)

• Read service data, reset ASSYST PLUS display (A,B)
  
• Oil and filter change (A,B)
  
• Check brake fluid level (A,B)
  
• Check coolant level (A,B)
  
• Inspect tires (A,B)
  
• Inspect brake pads, rotors (A,B)
  
• Check/correct tire pressure (A,B)
  
• Check/correct spare pressure (A,B)
  
• Check warning/function lights (A,B)
  
• Check interior and instrument lighting (A,B)
  
• Check horn (A,B)
  
• Check washer fluid (A,B)
  
• Check exterior for visible damage (A,B)
  
• Check windshield for damage (A,B)
  
• Check wiper blades (A,B)
  
• Check first aid kit expiration (A,B)
  
• Clean visible area of water deflector (A,B)
  
• Check parking brake (A,B)
  

Every “B” (20k miles or 2 years)

• Check exterior lighting (B)
  
• Check wipers,washers (B)
  
• Replace charcoal interior dust filter (B)
  
• Check poly V belt for wear (B)
  
• Check vehicle underside for leaks,damage (B)
  
• Check tires for damage/cracks (B)
  
• Check condition of steering, tie rods (B)
  
• Check front axle and ball joints (B)
  
• Check rear axle and ball joints (B)
  
• Check spring/strut/shocks (B)
  
• Check drive shaft flexible couplings (B)
  
• Check power steering fluid (B)
  

Additional work:

• Replace brake fluid - every 2 years
  
• Clean/Lubricate Panoramic Roof - every 30K/3 years
  
• Replace engine air filter - every 50k/5 years
  
• Replace spark plugs - every 50k/5 years
  
• Replace ATF oil/filter - every 60k/6 years
  
• Replace fuel filter - every 150k/15 years

and like the others said, do the differential fluid when you do the ATF fluid.

I personally believe tires should be changed when they are 5-7 years old, even on a garage queen with no mileage, as the rubber hardens and loses traction and integrity.

No worries I see your point, and I understand where the misunderstanding is coming from.
As for the expenses I’d clarify that Im planing to do all the services, but I wanted to know which are the most urgent or important to start with in a practical manner, there are no parts where I live and I have to source them internationally myself, buy them, then find a way to get them to here with a specific importer to each item’s category because there is no shipping.
This thread is not about how things are going here but a new E-Class can be $120k, which can buy you a nice apartment btw and you’d still have some left, so the value proposition is a vast deference between a country that has the latest and newest of these cars, where they’re probably mid 20s now, and an isolated district that has no more than a total of 50 cars of this model.
People argued for generations about the definition of a car, some call them assets, tools, or maybe pollutants, while others view them as marvels, symbols, and ultimately precious items.
Neither are wrong in there own terms, but we both know which of the 2 is more likely to be here.
After all as consumable as this car or asset may seem to you, it’s definitely way more than that to me, and I have no plans on selling this beauty In any future, as cars are increasingly becoming less enthusiastic in design and build quality, and that’s a subject for another thread.
Lastly, I’d love to pass it on to my son because it came with a looong story that he’d love to remember.
And thank you for the tips I truly appreciate the help.

I think I will have to send them an email and ask them directly, because they don’t seem to list engine parts for the e200.
If anyone knows European-based vendors let me know.

Thank you for the help, it’s nice that you worked your own version out of the system.
Notes taken on the deferential fluid as I forever thought it’s unnecessary on non LSD or locking defs, that’s the beauty of forums they you teach a new thing everyday.
As for tires your absolutely right, couldn’t believe the deference when I changed them a year ago.

I like the idea that works for millions of farmers for lot of generations.
"disconnect the battery, coffee can over the exhaust and walk away"
When coffee can can be symbolic here as it was design for old tractors who had tailpipe facing the sky, protecting the car from rodents seems to be often the issue.
I had my diesel sitting for 2 years, when it was restarted only once in the period. The engine fired on 1st turn.
Gasoline evaporate faster, so might give more headache, but modern fuel tanks are pressurized and even 2 years old gas in my boat open tank still runs the engine just fine.
When you disconnect the battery, it will stop the FSS clock, so you will not have to worry about updating the maintenance schedule.

you *should* try and drive the car at least a 1000 km a year, and not just short couple-km in-town trips. a few 100km trips are much much better than 100 1km drives. the annual maintenance is equivalent to the 16000km maintenance. Once a month, when the weather is nice, vacuum, wipe, wash and wax it, get the family dressed up and go for a sight seeing trip somewhere 50 km or more away. don't race it, just drive smooth and mellow. once or twice a year, take it out into the country somewhere, and drive it harder for a half hour, get the revs up to decarbonize the engine, use "S" mode, and the paddle shifters if you have them, and just generally push it harder to get the RPMs up for awhile.. Mountain roads are great for this.

Fill the gas tank after each of these runs and store it full.

btw, the car will tell you when its due for an A or B, thats on the ASSYST Display on the dash (buttons on left of steering wheel, display in the speedo). It adjusts the miles and times based on how you drive.

On my tractor, a 1948 Ford 8N, I put one of those flaps on the vertical exhaust that cap it when the engine is off, and I put a cheap 10 watt solar panel on top direct wired to the battery to keep it fully charged. When I switch that tractor off, there is NOTHING connected to the battery anyways, so disconnecting it would be redundant (it has no lights or other aux stuff, just the ignition coil, and the alternator, and I wired the switch to disconnect both of those on separate poles).


(jonsing for a kubota L)

but, a 2014 E class is NOT a tractor, not by a long shot. For an E that sits for a month plus, I would want a quality battery tender like a CTek or NOCO, and plug it into the battery when I park it for more than a week. If this car has eco start/stop and the 2nd battery in the trunk, I might even want a SECOND 1-2 amp battery tender connected to that second battery since its isolated when the car is off. My Ford diesel F250 4x4 truck can sometimes sit for a few months, so I wired a connector for a battery tender. its parked outside, so I have a solar battery tender on it that I put on the windshield or cab roof. Thankfuly, it never freezes here on the California central coast, so I don't have to worry about bringing batteries inside in the winter..

Having decades of owning RVs and boat, I dealt with sitting equipment a lot.
Even with system who disconnect everything from battery, the cables alone allows for current leak, what eventually leads to dead battery.
On other hand battery with pulled clamp will hold the charge for at least 6 months with nothing more.
Battery maintainers are good, but over the years had couple of them malfunction, what ended in killing battery as well.
So my procedure is battery clamp off for up to 6 months and for longer time- battery maintainer with monitoring it every couple of months.
When I was owning tractor and forklift for occasional use - they would get battery pulled from boat or RV.

I have two "E's" one we drive daily and it has 82k after eight years of ownership, I follow the miles maintenance on that one. My '12 on the other hand rolls 3k a year, bought new as well nine years ago, even though the mileage is 30k, I follow the time requirement for maintenance, so four brake fluid changes, one coolant change and serpentine belt last year, tranny fluid and filter this year and both differentials, spark plugs too, as I worried they would seize after eight years.Tires just in case of dry rot, still half tread left. The cabin and air filters I do on the mileage though, not all of us with garage queens that LCG despises ignore maintenance.LOL.

Emad,
W212 with so much electronics + plastic engine parts is not someting good to hand down to your son.
I plan to keep mine if possible 15 years, but spare parts procurement for me is not even 10% of your difficulty level.
I understand "submarine" kind import for parts you speak off, I do that a lot for my friend's yachts parts.

I admire your enthusiasm, as the same time I feel sad too understanding how difficult it is to own a W212 when parts are hard to get locally for you.

Stay happy with the W212 yah.

The "electronic + plastic engine parts" become famous with W163 and W210 models.
Yet, over 20 years later most of them are still on the roads and well appreciated.
W210 diesels in nice condition can sell for about the same what W212 in similar condition/mileage

You have to put yourself in OP shoes. He is not in USA where parts are easy to get and authorized workshop plenty and Indie workshop can be good and knowledge ones.
Sure, anything can last as long as you are willing to monitor the wear and tear or condition of the device at good regular intervals and if parts are always available.
He is in a country where imports of everything is NOT EASY.

If possible OP need to have a proper scanner, good enough knowledge, tools and etc etc. Its basically like living OFF grid.
That is a big challenge just to keep a car for a long time ownership , unless there is a strong historical value or some sort of personal attachment to the car.

Good thing now internet is easy, so he is not as "blind" as I was in the 90s sourcing for yachts parts from USA or Singapore by fax and phone and having to buy every documents from MAN diesel and ZF transmission to
make sure I got the correct part number.

Ironically, living in USA, I am buying lot of parts for my MB in my old country Poland.
US distributors don't sell small parts and due to corrosion killing cars at younger age in Europe, I can find lot of used parts for cheap. (I think Europe has more cars on JY due to accidents as well)
Just bought spare High Pressure fuel pump for my Bluetec.
$2000 for new one in USA, got used one for $240.

K,
Diesel MB is so popular in Europe right. You love diesel too.
In fact any German made cars, if you have the proper channels in Europe (EU), the parts pricing for brand new is cheaper than in USA I would assume.
Many Audi owners in Indonesia suffers transmission-computer failure due to heat at bad traffic jam, locally the Audi distributor will charge like 250-300% of what one can get in Germany/Europe.

Strangely new MB parts can be bought cheaper in USA, than in Germany. It is used parts market who has lot of small parts available, when US dismantlers don't even answer questions about small parts from vehicle they are parting out.
From what I read, lot of US parts distributors will ship Worldwide, {maybe not to Ukraine} but regional duties can affect such purchase as expensive.
Than main issue is small parts availability.
In case you have steering rack failure in USA, you need > $3000 for new assemble. Having contacts in Europe you will find rebuild parts for few bucks.