Wood trims - PN A-212-680-12-93
Wood trims - PN A-212-680-12-93
Hello to all .
Need confirmation Please- I've read various answers.
Regarding wood trims fading on 10-13 models with the burlwood trim
If there a specific date when they rectified these issues . i.e. date stamp on the box
Thanks in advance
Need confirmation Please- I've read various answers.
Regarding wood trims fading on 10-13 models with the burlwood trim
If there a specific date when they rectified these issues . i.e. date stamp on the box
Thanks in advance
I know. I do not intend to live with it. Looking for options.
Speaking of options anyone here try the hydro dipping method, Chatted with a gentleman who does vinyl wrap and also suggested looking into Hydro Dip. Longevity wise its supposedly the way to go.
Speaking of options anyone here try the hydro dipping method, Chatted with a gentleman who does vinyl wrap and also suggested looking into Hydro Dip. Longevity wise its supposedly the way to go.
I have actually hydrodipped a few W107 parts. It isn't a panacea; it looks good, but not "quite as good" as the real thing. Also, these W212 parts are generally on a "backing", or are riveted to a complex assembly (like the vent), which would involve very considerable and tedious masking (after sanding) for the underlying brown color that also needs to be applied. Hydrodipping would also require 2-part catalyzed clearcoating, block sanding, and buffing, again, somehow around the probably unremovable vent components and on hand-holdable pieces not mounted on a car. So, it might be doable, but it would be difficult. But, I admit it would be likely that you would wind up with something lasting because the inks (no, really - INKS) used in hydrodip are designed to be UV resistant and automotive clearcoat is also supposed to be very UV resistant.
You really need the skills of hydrodipping AND automotive painting in order to do this well. Mine were barely adequate to do the SL parts and they were 100% wood and very simple shapes.
I've seen new pre-facelift sets selling for from between $1000 and $1600 on eBay, or $1300 discounted on the Internet. If I really thought that buying those would be the end of my problems with it, I might have been crazy enough to pull the trigger, even though I really need only the "front" pieces (they aren't sold separately AFAIK).
Still hoping that I can learn how to wrap vinyl. If I can do that LH front piece with the vent (I bought a used one to develop skills with), I can do it. Failing that, I might remove all the parts that need doing and see if the local wrap guys can do it.
You really need the skills of hydrodipping AND automotive painting in order to do this well. Mine were barely adequate to do the SL parts and they were 100% wood and very simple shapes.
I've seen new pre-facelift sets selling for from between $1000 and $1600 on eBay, or $1300 discounted on the Internet. If I really thought that buying those would be the end of my problems with it, I might have been crazy enough to pull the trigger, even though I really need only the "front" pieces (they aren't sold separately AFAIK).
Still hoping that I can learn how to wrap vinyl. If I can do that LH front piece with the vent (I bought a used one to develop skills with), I can do it. Failing that, I might remove all the parts that need doing and see if the local wrap guys can do it.
Trending Topics
RE: (they aren't sold separately AFAIK).
Replacement burl pieces can be found at suburban auto parts online. i redid the front for about 600. facelift had the different vent style, and thats what i received. product id's matched up...i was satisfied considering the doors were fine for some reason.
Replacement burl pieces can be found at suburban auto parts online. i redid the front for about 600. facelift had the different vent style, and thats what i received. product id's matched up...i was satisfied considering the doors were fine for some reason.







