Friends, i have problem in my MB w212. Three months ago, there appeared noise when when i started engine in the mornings. Went to diagnose, the answer was camshaft adjusters needs to be replaced. So, i went to engine master and replaced - two camshaft adjusters, engine chain, spark plag and other details.
*entrance camshaft adjuster bought original, the other one replicate one.
Unfortunately, after repair the car shake up and gave very unusual noise (like a tractor) when i press gas and also appeared check engine sign. Later i changed camshaft adjuster magnet and engine oil filter. When i changed oil filer, the check engine sign disappeared and everything was ok, but the day after it appeared and car started to shake up while pressing gas.
i have been in several masters but couldn’t find correct solution. Several say that reticulate camshaft adjusters do not work good, so it is normal that i have problem.
i would be grateful if someone may help, if some one had similar problem and could solve it.

 

Correct me if I misunderstood your issue, your car was bad before and worse after repairs... I am going to venture, he who worked on your engine did not set VVT timing position correctly.

What CEL codes are you getting now? Use that information to guide your next step.
🎯

 

P233922

 

Khidir,

So, i went to engine master and replaced - two camshaft adjusters, engine chain, spark plag and other details.
*entrance camshaft adjuster bought original, the other one replicate one.

Give me your VIN code. How may KM/Miles is your engine ?
I believe if your car is before facelift of 2013 , you engine is M271 1.8L turbo, 4 cylinder.

01. STOP USING THE CAR UNTIL YOU REPLACE ALL NON GENUINE PARTS, with genuine ones.

Never never never buy non original timing chain. If that chain snap/broke, and if your engine is inteference type which I read it is if M271....meaning your valve will kiss your piston and bye bye engine = total loss.
I can't comment on non-original cam adjuster, but it won't be pretty as your EXHAUST side cam adjuster is non-genuine.
You also must replace the oil control valve for both camshaft adjuster and new timing chain tensioner.


My suspiciion to why you are getting : P233922
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-exceeded.html

It is because the NOISE your non-genuine timing chain makes, some of it matches the frequency of the knock sensor. knock sensor is a microphone. It listen to detonation/pinging inside the combustion chambers.
There are cases where certain mechanical damage making similar sound to what a knock sensor looks for and the sound triggered the knock sensor.

Here is a good example of a Ford 5.4L 3V ( 8 cylinder ) using non-genuine timing chain.
Watched carefully on how bad the quality of a typical non-genuine timing chain

Depending on your mileage, the plastic guides of the timing chain can also be worn out.
My indie mechanin told me the timing chain on M271 at 100,000KM is still OK.

Why I know so much, I just assist a friend in changing these components below for his C200 also using M271. All genuine. 70,000KM.
01. IN and OUT cam shaft adjuster magnets.
02. Oil control valve for both camshaft adjuster magnets
03. Timing chain tensioner.
NOTE : My friend engine's oil is not good enough all these time , he cheaped out and not use MB 229.5. He doesn't know shiet about cars.


Timing chain is to be replaced if it has "expanded/stretch" ( longer ) and you need a special tool to measure it without removing it. Exp
ensive the tool is. US$380 or so.
https://media.carooline.com/media/01...LU40125_GB.PDF
Mercedes also has this official tool.







Oil Control Valve



Chain tensioner -NEW

Oilc Control valve - used


DONE

 

I assisted in over seeing the work at my indie workshop, not me the one doing the job

 

is 'replicate' or 'reticulate' a specific brand, or do you just mean generic after-market parts? the only non-Mercedes stuff I'd put in my 212's engine would be parts made by the OE manufacturers that made the Mercedes part, and then only after researching that they are reasonably reliable and compatible.

Us North Americans haven't even seen a E250, the E300 or E350 was the smallest engine offered here in the 212 series. An E250 could be an M271 or M274 engine, depending on the model year. Or if its a diesel, then OM651.

 

If it is internal to engine or timing related , I will go 100% MB genuine.
Serpentine belt I dont mind going OE. However, since it is easier to go MB genuine for me, MB genuine it is then.

 

Dear S-Prihadi , thanks for detailed answer. Vin: WDD2120471A433653, odometer 180000 km

 

here's your datacard, the timing belt parts, and camshaft stuff...

 

LGC knows my Ebay knock off EPC cant produce data card .... heheheh

 

yah, owning several old benzes as well as the 2016, the $75/year for the EPC subscrition has been worth it. the 3 old 124's are all doomed to be scrapped, we just ahven't gotten to it yet. my beloved 93 300CE Cabriolet has wood rat damage and is DOA, the rat benz 1990 260E ran when parked, as did the 280,000 mile 94 E320 wagon, but both are tired and not worth enough to be worth the effort to sell.




(pics from 2015 when all 3 were daily drivers)

 

OK, so Khidir car engine is the same M271.860 engine as my friend's C200, only more turbo boost probably for the so called E250/C250. Cheating MB !!



Camshaft Positioner using my EPC 2018. Same as LCG's pdf file.
(Exhaust) A271 050 26 47
(Inlet ) A271 050 25 47

Mercedes Indonesia gave this number for Camshaft positioner :
A 271 050 14 00 80 Inlet
A 271 050 15 00 80 Outlet
These are what got installed on my friend's C200 / M271.860


Central Valve ( oil control valve ) : Same as my 2018 EPC and LGC's PDF
A271 050 05 78 Inlet & outlet the same.


Timing chain tensioner : Same as my 2018 EPC and LGC's PDF
A271 050 09 11


Need these gaskets and plug* ( *timing chain tensioner )

NOTE : All EPC below based on my friend's C200 M271.860 VIN

 

At 180,000KM I think new timing chain + complete plastic guides is best to be replaced. MB genuine please.

BTW, my friend's engine is OK, it is the stupid 3 second noise at warm start up which made these repairs necessary.
The oil control valve unless really bad, that is one hard to diagnose. The moment it can not flow oil fast enough or proper quantity/pressure to the cam adjuster vanes, the stupid sound can occur.
So changing cam adjuster + oil control valve + timing chain tensioner = proven trio package. Based on timing chain still healthy.

Timing chain tensioner is also oil pressure based, so it can go bad or unhealthy too. Hence the trio change is a safe bet.

 

i do hate how the model numbers have become unmoored from the displacement with the advent of turbocharging. But everyone is doing that. Volvo, it uses to be t4 wa sa turbo 4, t5 was a turbo 5 cyl, and t6 was a turbo 6 cyl, but now they are *ALL* 4 cyl, and the numbers are more related to the peak output than the actual engine.

 

thanks, dear S-Prihadi. I will try to change it. Two days ago, there was oil in spark plug. We cleaned it and in two days there was no problem. It appeared again today

 

The cylinder chamber has only 4 entry points for either gasoline, air or oil
1 - Exhaust valve
2 - Admission valve
3 - Headgasket
4 - Piston rings

(1) is obviously out of the discussion
(2) implies the oil vacuum pump (crankshaft breather/PCV) is passing oil straight through the engine , or
is this a turbo engine (blown seal and oil is also passing from here)?
(3) the head gasket is blown. This engine overheated recently?
(4) basically the oil ring is "broken/lost sealing"

I would focus on the variants around (2) before getting into more complex parts.

 

You speak of oil at spark plug tip .... or oil at spark plug body and thread ?
If at spark plug body and thread, you need to replace all 4 seals for spark plug "recess" to cylinder head plastic cover. Item 29.




AA. If oil at the spark plug tip, as Juanmor40 explained and maybe also possible from oil-seal at valves stem.
https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/valve...00-cgi-204-048

Which cylinder has the oil at spark plug tip ? ( assuming it is the tip )


BB. The plastic cylinder head cover is also a oil separator ( PCV), sort of : Read page 12 & 13 of the M271 pdf. Read the entire document.
If the PCV system goes banana, it may inject oil into the intake air upstream/after the air filter.

Have fun troubleshooting.....

 

The file attached is for general information on the M271 cam adjusters issue.

 

Dear S-Prihadi,
thans for your deatiled respond. Do you know at what km interval i need to change fuel filter? is there any official MB recomendation?

 

Well, if you are now at 180K KM, best to change it.
Gasoline fuel clogging the filter is country dependent. The poorer the country is, usually the dirtier the fuel is, aside from fuel's bad quality in terms of its octane and whatnot.
I am talking of fuel purchased at the Pump and not transferred via drums to remote area.

However there is something you should know, the filter element, some are still sort of paper based ( cellulose ) and some maybe synthetic fiber.
Usually when its has been submerged in fuel for too long, the paper itself will breakdown and/or the adhesive holding the element be it paper or synthetic.
Fuel line clogging is what one can get. Hopefully the High Pressure pump does not suck it and get damaged.

On my small outboard powered co-owned boat ( 250HP x 3 ), I have super duper big and double pre-filter installed made by Racor 10 micron and 2 micron.
So the engines ( Suzuki ) has its own low pressure filter ( paper based, plastic housing ) and high pressure filter ( probably paper based too ), which I will change not due to dirt ( zero dirt ) but
the low pressure one is because of the paper element already too risky to keep. The high pressure filter usually get rusty inside ( steel housing ) and I can't get the max 6,000 RPM.