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W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 OM642 ; R107 M117, Sierra 1500 LZ0
monoblocks revisited - BAT auction
I saw this on BAT and it rekindled my interest in getting a set of 18" monoblocks for my W212. I'd done research a few years ago and it looked like it was hard to find proper fitment. Well the owner of this one managed to do so ( https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...nz-e-class-11/ ), although they are 19"s. Anyone know the proper sizing and offset to get a set of OEM 18"s on our W212s?
W212 comes with lot of different wheel sizing and is pretty tolerable to different offsets due to huge wheel wells.
My W212 rides on ca 40 years old monoblocks in 18" sizing.
Would have to double check it, but they have ET in 30 mm range, what is smaller than OE wheels, but I actually like the looks of wheels sticking out.
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 OM642 ; R107 M117, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Thanks, not sure what you mean by "ca" though? The similar ones I've found from that era seem to be ET37, can you confirm which ones yours are (and possibly what model they came off of)?
I had the chrome mono blocks on two cars, my '93 S500 and my '01 SL500, If I remember correctly they were 37 as you mentioned and our current 212's are 48 I believe, so they would stick out an extra 3/8" .
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 01-16-2022 at 08:32 AM.
Reason: Math
Thanks, not sure what you mean by "ca" though? The similar ones I've found from that era seem to be ET37, can you confirm which ones yours are (and possibly what model they came off of)?
ca=circa
Before W212 all E/300 class would come with ET below 30 mm, while S-class would have like 35-37 mm. As I said, W212 with huge wheel wells will accept most of them, so the only issue is cosmetic looks.
The classic monoblocks I have are Lorinser, who was popular tuner at the time and they have factory chrome, who is still holding at about 40 years of age, with just some pitting. In the past I bought OE AMG monoblocks, who were chromed in USA as that was in high demand a generation ago, but the chrome job was PITA and I had to respray where it flaked. They never looked good, while rechroming is cost-prohibitive.
About 15 years ago, I had my 560SL's wheels chromed. It cost a lot (but not NEARLY what it would cost now). Unless you don't drive your car in the rain or snow OR you live in Las Vegas , I would not recommend getting chromed* wheels. Dampness and ESPECIALLY any exposure to salt and the chrome will peel off - it's just a matter of time. Even before it gets unsightly, it can peel off the bead of the rim and cause unpredictable leaks. There is no magic chemical that will remove that plating, sanding is very tough because how do you control going through very hard plating to get to very soft aluminum, and electro-chemical industrial removal of chrome plating may be a significant fraction of the cost of chrome plating itself!
I have a garage queen so I don't worry about it.
Of course, if you have a problem with curbs, chrome plating is not a good idea This is also my problem with powder coating. No way to touch it up!
I've POLISHED aluminum wheels (1970's/80's Mercedes "Bundts") to the point that they look as shiny as chrome but with a more whitish cast. The high shine doesn't last forever even under limited use, but a day every summer with some buffing compound can get them right back.
* My comments here involve triple (copper/nickel/chrome) plating and don't apply to the very modern overcoated vacuum-deposition "chrome", more environmentally friendly, but I've also seen THOSE wheels fail.
Last edited by strife; 01-15-2022 at 05:51 PM.
Reason: Can't spell, read, write
IIRC, older Mercedes, like early 90s, used smaller lug screws than newer models. I don't know what the cutoff is, but you definitely do NOT want to use a 14mm wheel with a 12mm screws, and I don't believe you CAN use a 12mm wheel with 14mm screws (I think those are the two sizes).. monoblocks were a thing on the R129's back when the W124 was still new
IIRC, older Mercedes, like early 90s, used smaller lug screws than newer models. I don't know what the cutoff is, but you definitely do NOT want to use a 14mm wheel with a 12mm screws, and I don't believe you CAN use a 12mm wheel with 14mm screws (I think those are the two sizes).. monoblocks were a thing on the R129's back when the W124 was still new
The lug bolts change to 14 mm come with W211. Older wheels had big holes, so they will still fit newer models, but you need to observe seat radius.
My Lorinsers come what I think was cone seats, but over the years they got so beaten up, that I could not measure it for sure. I put original bolts with R14 radius and gave it extra torque, observing for some time to make sure they hold. They do just fine.
I think LCG has a point, I don't think you'd want to use a conical lug nut in a spherical seat, or vice- versa, length is also a concern, so choose wisely! Also just for fun I'll throw this out there, I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the '12 and '13 E classes had different lug nuts than the '10-'11 and '14- '16.
Bad *** W124 and plate! Why'd you sell? I'd love to have a 94-95 W124 (or even better, C124)
Thank you sir!! I do miss it and wish I hadn’t sold her. As I too would love another one. I sold her 16(?) years ago to buy an XJR. Hindsight is always 20/20.
01-13-2022, 12:30 PM
, I would not recommend getting chromed* wheels. Dampness and ESPECIALLY any exposure to salt and the chrome will peel off - it's just a matter of time. Even before it gets unsightly, it can peel off the bead of the rim and cause unpredictable leaks. There is no magic chemical that will remove that plating, sanding is very tough because how do you control going through very hard plating to get to very soft aluminum, and electro-chemical industrial removal of chrome plating may be a significant fraction of the cost of chrome plating itself!
This is also my problem with powder coating. No way to touch it up!
