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Hi friends!
New to the MB universe here. I recently got myself a later model 2014 e350 (the one with the facelift). The dealership said that this is normal and can be fixed at home but I have not found any threads that help. I’ve seen a few that deal with uneven trunk closures which usually happen after the trunk has been slammed with something blocking the way. But this is not the case. I came across a youtube video that pointed out that he got this same issue naturally over time but never pointed out a fix for it.
Normally small panel gaps and misalignments wouldn’t bother me, but this spans across the entirety of the rear end and is VERY apparent even from a distance so I’d prefer to find a fix sooner than later :/
I’ve attached photos of the trunk gap when the trunk is closed. Any information or a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!!
Edit: there’s no issues with the trunk latch, it closes and locks properly without issue. The surrounding plastic cover for the trunk latch is broken but the latch itself works fine.
Last edited by mg212; Jul 17, 2022 at 09:06 AM.
Reason: trunk latch update
With these cars at least 6 years old, I wouldn't expect the dealer to correct it for free.
I would like to know the procedure, too. I have hand turned the adjusters clockwise about as far as they will go and I still have a slight gap. Goal is to get the top of the taillight segments to match horizontally.
The way your trunk lid looks makes me guess the resting latch is not working. The "soft-closing" is not operating for some reasons...
The self closing trunk has 3 electrical assemblies that must work together: -- The lid closes by a cable pull : up/down-- The resting side has a soft-close catch-- The lid has a release latch: lock/unlock
follow that cable to its pulling gear actuator
If you're interested, remove that trunk plastic liner to uncover faulty mechanism. You may either fix for free it or replace it based on findings ...
For everyone else the trunk mechanisms need to be greased internally. It's child play to make this work reliably
pics later
overheated connection pins das ist das... Easter eggs for Cali
solder side ... solderless mix
solderless pins... turned soldered pins
Consider lubricating the lid puller mechanism hosted near the controller. It has to work against the 2 fat trunk springs to pull down the lid... a little grease goes a long way to make it move smooth.
> Pedicted failure:
The pull mechanism suffer from no lubrication and overload the electronic circuit with high current through loose connections.
When lubricated mechanism operates smoothly with minimal friction.
Same thing on the electronic side: when soldered the loose pins can no longer overheat from high resistance drop-voltage.
If you stop this game early, you'll prevent unnecessary wear and damage to plastics. You may also be interested in reworking the clunks out of your steering "convenience entry" mechanism.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 17, 2022 at 03:33 PM.
My my..... so much preventive to do ........ Thanks Cali
P.S Only 18 hours ago I was lubricating my Reverse Osmosis water system ( in Bali ) at its float switch for the raw water. It got stuck at the lever arm and alarm trigerred due to tank empty.... De Ja Vu
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jul 18, 2022 at 10:46 AM.
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