axxiom

I took my car in for its 90K service at a local mechanic specializing in foreign autos and specifically Mercedes. We've been using this mechanic 3-4 years, since we stopped going to dealer when the factory warranty expired. During this visit, the mechanic told us the front passenger bulb was burned out and that it was an HID bulb. He quoted me $203, which I declined. Went to Napa auto and replaced the Halogen bulb for $18. He also showed me uneven wear in the front tires (Pirelli Cinturato P7) and told me that the bearings and hubs need to be replaced for $1,500. Naturally with the bulb experience, I no longer trust this mechanic. I took it in to my local tire shop (Evans Tires) where the Pirellis were installed just 25K miles ago along with an alignment. The tire shop told me that it's normal for these cars to chew through tires at this rate and that I just need new tires and another alignment. I've been rotating these tires every 5K miles since they were installed 5 years / 25K miles ago. I asked specifically about the bearings and the tire shop (which also does suspension work and other mechanical repairs) told me that they did not think it has anything to do with the bearings. Question for this group is whether its normal for front wheel hubs/bearings to need to be replaced on this vehicle at 90K miles; and if it is not, is there any way that I can test to determine whether the the bearings are indeed bad? If there is no way to know without removing and inspecting the bearing, how did the mechanic come to that conclusion that the bearings were bad? Also, is the tire shop right when they tell me that these cars eat through tires like a kid with a snow cone and that I need new tires and another alignment at 25k miles? I've attached pics of the tires which were in the front of vehicle for the past 5K miles and are now in the rear.

CaliBenzDriver

your tire picture shows almost normal sign of lower control arm bushing needing replacement.

Thing is with astronomical labor charge and cheap China parts... you're better off simply replacing the lower control arm than the bushings.

Buy the part and make an Apt to have the suspension shop quickly install it. The shop telling you tales is spinning misleading fantasies. Customer honesty is not his strong suite.

We understand that aligning loose wheels is a complete waste of ressource many shops are welling to entertain.

Check for looseness by raising car from central front lift point then...
freeplay 9to3 o'clock: tie rod (30% chance) freeplay 12to6 o'clock: bearing (5% chance)
no freeplay: control arms bushings (90% chance)

report findings!
✌️

axxiom

Thank you for the tip. There is some freeplay in the 9-3 range, but very minor. I would guess ~ 5 degrees of play. In the 12-6, there is even less freeplay, which as you've indicated, rules out bearing. So sounds like your vote is for the control arm bushings. I'll lift it up again and inspect.

CaliBenzDriver

5° is HUGE... sounds like a farming tractor!!!

9to3... you have a bit of steering play, likely in the tie rods. See if it's only on passenger side or both... they can get simply loose or worned out too.

Soft control arms rubber bushings are designed to time out and routinely get serviced, don't think twice about them.

Ball joints are more sturdy but hey, everything must go... potholes and curbs get the best of their plastic bearing surfaces

K-Mac

Other then high mileage and worn bushings other essential fact is to realize OEM there is “NO ADJUSTMENT” to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear.

Example right hand wheels the result of high cambered roads, or both wheels - wheel squat, excess inner edge wear through altered height, transporting extra weight.

The often quoted, reassuring “full front and rear ‘4’ wheel alignment” is in fact only Toe - directional adjustment.

Align Tech can adjust Toe all he wants but the uneven tire wear still exists.

All he can advise is that has adjusted the “Toe” back to factory specs!

The deletion of both Camber and Caster - allowing to adjust tire contact angles - spread load more evenly has been brought about through cost cutting and the ever increasing speed of auto assembly lines.

At KMAC we saw the need therefore to re-instate once again from the early 90’s full front and read adjustment - TO FIX IT RIGHT THE 1st. TIME.

FOR ALL MODEL W212 FRONT CAMBER ADJUSTMENT (BOTH SIDES)
E200-E550 #502916-1 $345
E63, E65 AMG #503616-1 $345
Less cost then 1 hi-performance tire.
Precise single wrench adjustment - accurately (under load - direct on alignment rack). Fit without need for suspension arm removal.

SEE SPOILER RE FRONT & REAR KITS AVAILABLE


AUDI to VOLVO - KMAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964!