2009-2013 W212 OE Factory Tail lights facelift conversion rewiring toturial
I recently bought a facelift kit from the dealership with all OE parts and I'm DYI-ing the installation.
Specifically, now that I put the rear bumper on after I took it from the Bodyshop I installed the 4 pcs tail lights (2 in the fender and 2 in the trunk).
I have found that the outer lights are plug-and-play but the inner rear position lights did not light up with the fog lights although the reverse light was working and there were errors in the instrument cluster.
I took the assemblies to my bench and will share with you what you need to know to get them running by swapping wires, but I didn't bother to remove the errors which I think are resistance-based or SAMR.
Where the old inner assembly had break lights working simultaneously with the outer lights the new inner assembly doesn't.
To make the facelift tail lights work you will need to change the wiring.
- The old assembly wiring was
- Common (negative)
- Fog light
- Reverse light
- Break light
- Rear position light
- Null (empty/blank)
- the new assembly wiring was
- Common
- Rear position light
- Reverse light
- Fog light
- Null (empty/blank)
- Null (empty/blank)
(It is numbered on the connector but the wires are all white with no marking so DO NOT mess up and use markings or masking tape with the numbers so you don't forget)
- The new assembly wiring reorder
- Common
- Fog
- Reverse
- Null (empty/blank)
- Rear position light
- Null (empty/blank)
If anyone knows a fix for the instrument cluster errors please reply to this thread and share it!
I know this isn't an exact tutorial but tbh I am not a professional electrician.
Hopefully, this will help someone who doesn't want aftermarket quality and bought the assemblies from the dealership or OEM.
Last edited by tR3; Dec 9, 2022 at 03:51 PM.




To loose the capability of rear SAM telling you that X Y Z bulbs are blown out is kinda risky.
Basically, I am more interested in how to fool the SAMR module into thinking your tail lights are working without resorting to reprogramming the module.
For now, I am going to try to get the resistance right and see if resistors inline with the wires can fool it or if there is more to the story as I tbh not an automotive electrician, so I will try to modify the hardware, and share the solution without risk.




I am wondering too what are the difference rear SAM wise for before facelift to facelift one, if any for its wiring to tail light assy.
Based on my experience doing T10 LED bulb conversion, oddly enough it is not purely amperage based sensing for trunk light and in-cabin ones.
Something more complicated is the blown or incompatible bulb sensing method by some modules.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...y-you-say.html











