95viper

Has anyone replaced these? I watched available videos and read what I could find but many variations of engines and 4matic conflict the process.

anyone have experience with a 2011 E350 RWD model?

ZakiGarage

Mine is a 2011 E300 RWD model M272, they were replaced at 90k & 160k km.
Repair manual says to jack the engine and should be enough room to remove the mounts,
But that's not the case from my experience and the local MB shop next to me, the exhaust has to come out to get the mounts out.
There might be an easier way to get them out.
Also, you'll need the 16mm offset tool for the nut on top of the mount, very hard to get at.

95viper

Thanks, I ordered the tool so will get under there today to inspect things. I read others dropping the steering rack a bit while lifting engine and being able to get out forward. Wonder which is more work, that or exhaust? Also with offset tool do you go at the top bolt from above or below?

AllPhonesAretap

Your car has the M272 the 90degree V-angle makes it hard than on the m276. However, I was able to do my engine mounts SOLO, DIY in a day.

atraudes

Dropping the steering rack is simple. Just remove two bolts and it comes down. The exhaust is riskier as you'll be dealing with bolts that are quite rusty. I replaced the mounts on my '11 4matic with the M272 and it wasn't easy but it was doable. The biggest hurtle was that the front drive shafts would run into the frame at some point when lifting the engine, restricting how much room you get to work. Given that it's not the same problem on the RWD, I would suspect it's much easier. Snaking the mount out of the side with the steering column is the biggest pain.

TNJohn

I have your car, a 2011 E350 RWD, and I replaced the front and rear engine mounts last month @ 72,000 miles. There were absolutely shot and attribute that to age as they were the originals. The special 16mm top mount bolt tool is absolutely necessary and available from Baum Tools. The way I removed the left front mount was removing the bolts holding the A/C compressor and shoving the compressor out of the way, allowing the mount to come out to the front. That is the method given in WIS. You do not need to remove compressor hoses. I prefer this to dropping the steering rack, but no harm is done doing that. Just don't remove all the rack bolts or you will have a much larger headache on your hands. Best wishes,

John

95viper

Thanks everyone for the replies. My tool arrived at 6pm and I finished at 9pm. I have 30min of cleanup and putting the trays back tomorrow.

I decided on the steering rack because driver side was tight and I could only get the tool on it from below. With rack moved it was much easier.

The passenger side top bolt came out from top side. I wasted 30min and was frustrated with getting the top bolt started on new mount passenger side. It just wouldn’t catch so a touch of antiseeze and getting a little pissed helped it go in.

torquing the top bolts was a pia too. Overall though your advice was priceless and job was easier than expected.

trans mount was a piece of cake.

BenzV12

You sound like a Ed China , kudos to you
Happy Driving