[QUOTE=CaliBenzDriver; but that's caused by ECU + delays that I've pinned on CAN-C CGW: ESP/ISM/...[/QUOTE]

Yes, I hope to get to reworking all mine before too long. already stocked up on plenty of Amtech flux and Kessler 0.3 mm solder, chem wipes, isopropyl alcohol, new extra fine tips and small bent tips for the Hakko, eyeballing a hot air station too and a electronic microscope to use with my new monitor. Old eyes.

Thinking I'm gonna start with the SAM units, had found some funky codes while doing something else in the rear SAM.

 

Rick, I am excited a PRO like yourself get to experience that transformation.
I will do anything to help a friendly Ret. service man as a token....

We're gonna get you setup until the last one of us prevails against chaos.


This is really easy compared to troubleshooting board components with a scope.

Your best choice is going to be big iron with 100W heat. No use for the surface mount tiny pencil tip.

THESE PINS act like MASSIVE HEATSINKS... trust me on that.

Many will agree that the last thing you want is a cold joint. You have to melt solder well and be QUICK about it : a 2 or 3 sec burst of hit. Not sitting there cooking the multilayered PCB.

Honestly, the ESP rework is easy once the box seal is opened (2.5Hrs). Use a second hand cloned ESP to swap in/out 20mn....

Next you got ISM: it's not easy to access screws with little clearance without a $15 magic wand from AMZ. This module is be_atch but fails with no-crank security alted. This is when my ECU began to give me GDI Timings.

EIS - Ignition key slot: this unassuming gem can rain on your parade with nearby buddy SCM. I fixed them together at once. I recall that got the car planted straight like a magnet holding center.
I remember I was pretty amazed by what AES delivered. I don't remember what that was.

THE TOP DOG WE ARE CATERING TO IS CGW it then allows ECU/TCU performance to soar.
The GDI injection timings
The well executed shifts

It's busy translating streams of message across.
It gets upset and every message takes a back seat delay. Some getting dropped then repeted...

THE ECU + TCU ARE BOTH
When given normal work environment without ESP spoiling the bus.
I bet TCU is always asking for wheel speeds
Same thing with LED Lights read wheel speed
and this is what DELAY ECU-TCU TIMINGS.
Its more than bangin tranny...
when they work hand in hand it's way different and stays cold, not sloppy regardless of use.

Buy yourself a used ESP match
work on it at your leisure for 3 to 10hrs
the big day is a 20mn swap (BATTS OFF)
then scan for clean report and data stream
Enjoy transformed ECU/TCU response

This will put a smile on your face if solders was reworked to satisfaction else reinstall original ESP and revisit bridges created between 2 pins (take pictures prior) - I kept my cover removed for first live test then RTV siliconed dried all night.

R-SAM is a good entry level module. It requires strong heat!! Not tiny solder iron. Whatever size tip you can use to solder between pins spacing.

When I pop any of my module I disconnect both my batteries. While the car is powered down, it ignores the act of surgery.

Anyway, rebooting refreshes CGW for best behaviors. This is real German world-class computer networking.... loves its reboots like PC!

 

that was how I did it - Same link here but with wording to state thread title.
Disabling “ECO START/STOP” Using the LAUNCH Creader Elite 2.0 Benz OBDII Reader - Page 2 - MBWorld.org Forums

Someone Else Found it.
read that thread from start to end.

 

Yup, I also put a link to your post in my post as well.

 

Using Launch, I got a communication error when attempting to change to last mode...this on a 2014 E250.

 

From the link to ygmn's post:
I can't find any module/system relating to powertrain/powetrain... I looked in everything that is related to powertrain, but can only find the ECO START/STOP ACTIVE/INACTIVE options. I can't find the "operation eco start/stop"...

Where is my Powetrain module??

Edit: maybe it's because I don't know how to get into "enhanced version"

 

your ignition must be ON with engine not running.
else EVU gets powered down without coms

 

yeah good point some people forget this part as soon as you plug it in readers go to work.

I always take the push to start button doohickey thing out and insert key since you have to cycle the ignition on/off wjhen reprogramming and tht makes it easier and less likely to make errors then with push start button.

Mine is 2015 so those with early cars I dunnot maybe things are different butI doubt it when it comes to ECO start/stop engine crap.

I would like to slap the politician who made this thing law or required or whatever.
And whoever patented it they are on the short list too. definitely not a gear head - probably ride a bike or EV everywhere.

 

Actually, it's been around a looong time. When I was stationed in Germany (West Germany back then), Volvo was putting a stop/start feature on their European cars. But, gasoline was about $6/gal there back in the early 80s. So, it was an attempt to save fuel, but not for political reasons. I just don't know how it worked with manual transmissions.

EDIT: Here you go.

https://w.wiki/AYWX

 

I actually tried it both ways, but there are 2 "ON but engine off" positions, so maybe I was in the wrong one. I will try with the key to be sure...

 

Position 0, the key is all the way to the left and the engine is off. Position 1 is one click to the right and turns on accessories with the engine off. Position 2 is the next click to the right and turns all electronics on and will allow the engine to run but has not started the engine. The last position to the right starts the car and automatically returns to the on position (#2). If you are using the start button, press it twice with your foot off the brake to get to the same thing as Position 2 (everything on with engine off).