Gents,

Money don't lie. I gave up and end up buying the proper de-pinning tool. Duggh.

2 most common female terminal you will come across inside the engine bay and they are known to get loose, the female terminal won't bite well.

1st one is : Kostal MLK 1.2.
See here for full information : https://www.ttieurope.com/content/da...N-C0111902.pdf
or see attachment

You will come across this MLK 1.2 when doing ECM connector and most sensors of the engine.
The famous VVT magnetic solenoid connector you guys bought its pigtail wiring kit for oil-leak-migration-prevention to-ECM is using this female terminal too.
Here I will explain 2 kinds of plastic connector for this Kostal MLK1.2.
One will only use its 1st lock feature and some will use its 1st and 2nd lock feature.

Let me explain :







If the 2 or 3 pin connector plastic body is from Hirschmamn, it only uses the 1st lock.
If the 2 or 3 pin connector plastic body is from Kostal, it will use both 1st lock and 2nd lock.


Hirschmamn 1.2 SealStar connector body, usually pressure sensors and the CamShaft Position Sensors. Only 1st lock is used.



Only 1st lock is used.









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The VVT solenoids, 2 pins connector by Kostal, it uses both 1st and 2nd lock.

I have not tear open this Kostal VVT connector, because I never had the proper de-pinning tool for MLK 1.2........yet, at that time.
Without the de-pinning tool, we can not push down the 2nd lock.













You can buy the tool from here, in Germany : https://www.automotive-connectors.co..._store=english




The ECM connector.









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The 2nd most common female terminal is the SLK 2.8


THE SLK 2.8 de-pinning tool ( extraction tool )









THE COP will be most likely the plastic connector you will need to work on.




You can buy the SLK 2.8 extraction/de-pinning tool from here : https://www.automotive-connectors.co..._store=english


The 1st lock of this COP connector by Kostal are hidden, 4 of them, 1 for each female terminal. Slowly take a look and you will find it.
The special de-pinning tool is to push down the 2nd lock, that "tounge" or latch, or whatever you wanna call it.










Becareful wjhen ordering any male or female terminal, be it SLK 2.8 or MLK 1.2.
The non sealed type means the end of the terminal 2nd claw is without a hole to grip the silicone seal
The sealed type means the 2nd claw has a hole for the silicone seal.




The crimping tool for proper crimping the unique 1st claw for the copper wire strand.
I gott this from Amazon Japan, but this set does not do the 2nd claw "hugging", I would not call 2nd claw as crimping
This will cover MLK1.2 and SLK2.8 and all other terminals needing this difficult style crimping to near as good as below.
If you want a true Kostal MLK 1.2 or SLK 2.8 crimper as MB uses, they cost CRAZY !!!! https://herthundbuss.com/en/kostal/







I got the 3 die kit and 1 crimper kit from Amazon Japan and 1 more crimper I bought locally ( very expensive ) with Pad-11 size die only.
The precision of the die-s dimension are a beautiful sight to see.




I also bought from Aliexpress China, a popular good quality crimper IWiss for its "seal" crimping capability.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...21ef1802YIFACM
Seems OK, but I have not use it yet like the Engineer brand.





This is the lower cost Engineer PA-21 but too small for SLK 2.8, only can do MLK 1.2 and it is not big enough for JPT /Lear 1.5 which is for the DLC/OBD connector.





Will continue..................

 

This one you probably will not need............

JPT or Lear 1.5 depinning tool. I got the cheapo one and broke it already and it was not a very good fit too.

The OBD/DLC connector use this female terminal. 2.2mm spread is what is needed, but I managed to get a 2mm spread only.



Cheap from China, 2mm and 3mm spread. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...21ef1802afZ59z

The one I broke is this set equivalent :
I think better if you guys buy this one :





Non sealed connector, OBD / DLC connector is inside the car, so no need silicone seal








Need to spread the fork gap a bit to fit into the DLC plastic slot, 0.2mm extra gap needed.











OBD / DLC connector repair thread : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...or-repair.html


Oky doky, happy poking around..........

 

Thank you so much! I've been looking for how to remove my ignition coil connector for years! Really appreciate it.

 

sigh, I miss the old Mercedes cable connectors of the 80s/90s, where they all used silver plated round pins soldered onto the wires and pressed into the connector blocks. totally designed for repair.

 

G