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i listened to your 16sec clip like four times. Tick-ticks are about normal besides tap tap.
-- The high speed rattling is the fuel pump working.
-- I can hear a much slower taping that should not be there... perhaps belt related.
> The one thing you can do is to provide a better oil viscosity to your engine. Better grade with more frequent changes.
These engines normally run extremely hot, the oil viscosity tend to degrade quickly ... 5kMi oil are in order
Thanks! I’ll get it check if there was anything wrong around the belting mechanism. The oil im using is a full syn mobil 1 0w-40 (gold). Changed every 10k. Is this an ok or do you recommend a 5w instead?
is the tapping serious if left alone for like 3 months?
Thanks! I’ll get it check if there was anything wrong around the belting mechanism. The oil im using is a full syn mobil 1 0w-40 (gold). Changed every 10k. Is this an ok or do you recommend a 5w instead?
is the tapping serious if left alone for like 3 months?
Mobil-1 OW40 wouldn't be my top choice!! It is known for marginal viscosity.
Go for a better brand and a 10W40 oil changed at 5kMi not 10kMi, that wears out your engine!
Good chance this will help quiet your lubrication issues.🤞
10w40!? That seems a little bit too much. 5w40 should be about right. 0w40 is too thin for the engine unless a 5k service interval is being done.
Oil is not a set religion for me... when I hear worn engine clunking It needs a thicker cushioning oil film.
The 0W or 5W negatively impact how fast this W40 oil will turn into a W25. I am well aware the first number is the cold polymer viscosity.
Cali leaves in California mild climates: 10W40 MOTUL is it for now and next choice on my list is Pennzoil Platinum but I trust Juan more than any marketing campaigns.
All the "10W40" oils are... the modern version of 20W50 I grew up on.
I think the 0W15 for Toyota helps understand their troubles with oil consuption
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 01-18-2024 at 03:44 AM.
Am a total novice. I noticed this sound recently and was wondering if anything is wrong. Your professional advice is very much appreciate. 🙏🏻
Normal. It's due to the high pressure injectors. I use 5w40 only from Ardeca if my supplier is out of stock I switch it to my back up Liqui Moly. If your in a colder climate I recommend 0w40 if not 5w40. Never put anything less then #w40. The oil weight is to thin.
Mobil1 is not what it use to be with there products.
10w40!? That seems a little bit too much. 5w40 should be about right. 0w40 is too thin for the engine unless a 5k service interval is being done.
?
The number before the 'W' describes the viscosity of the oil at low temperature. The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the better the oil's cold. temperature/cold start performance. The number after the 'W' describes how think the oil is at the engine's normal operating temperature.
It sounds normal to me. Direct injection engines tend to sound like a sewing machine in idle due to the high pressure fuel system noises (HP pump and injectors). Regarding oil, use the approval type specified in your owners manual. It's already "trimmed" to your local weather. You can usually find the approved brand names for each rating on your local MB website or use the BEVO: https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/
Last edited by Andre Cateb; 01-18-2024 at 12:54 PM.
Yup there are better options out there, not advertising but personally have good experience with Liqui Moly.
Me too, I'm using Liqui-Moly 5w-40 Molygen, and Examiners at Blackstone, recommend to continue as wear is very good compared to others in this engine family M276 NA, and if I want to bump oil changes to 7k, I can.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Rickman30
Me too, I'm using Liqui-Moly 5w-40 Molygen, and Examiners at Blackstone, recommend to continue as wear is very good compared to others in this engine family M276 NA, and if I want to bump oil changes to 7k, I can.
The thoughts are that low viscosity increases RPM required to cool your cylinders. As a result thin oil vaporizes and quickly turns black as it gets overheated.
You'd be much better off with a 40-weight such as the LM 5W40 or as approved by MB.
Modern lubrication rely on additive packages (zinc, borate,...) more than viscosity. Both combined provide effective spray cooling at driving RPM.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-22-2024 at 08:57 PM.
A mechanic had also told me that low visco oils could also damage the crank due to low pressure . Whatever you choose , it must be a Mercedes-Benz approved product
A mechanic had also told me that low visco oils could also damage the crank due to low pressure.
Whatever you choose , it must be a Mercedes-Benz approved product
yes, "approved list" means it has the compatible package of additives to run under extreme MB conditions. Lowet viscosity translates into lower pump pressure.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-23-2024 at 04:09 AM.
you can track how quickly the honey virgin color turn into liquidish black molasses. This is caused by limited pistons oiling at driving RPM. Any oil can do that regardless of brand. The champion should be a 5W-30 grade.
Here is a look at Motul 5W40 after 2000.Mi: 2107.Mi since oil/filter service
Fresh color holds given good sprayed pistons temps
All right, I said I did cheat constructively. I added a half-quart booster shot when my oil started to loose it's original viscosity.
At that point I had everything approved oil, low mileage service, bumped viscosity... that's when the extreme heat disapeared. No more sizzling hot smelly car garage. 1st time since new!
Funny thing is....
today my HL LED FAN did not come on after shutting down in the garage. The HL are no longer super-heated!.
The booster shot was an excellent idea.
Driving in "S-mode" around town helps raise the RPM for guaranteed cooling. Driving in "E-mode" to keep tranny shifting low may prevent producing enough pressure to spray cool.
++++++++ Rev Up Your Engine!! +++++
Case study: traffic jam situation
Say we get stuck idling for over 20mn.
Guess what happens to pistons squirters at idle? Nothing, they stay shut.
Then finally the road gets cleared and we resume driving.
That's when oil viscosity is stressed by cooling the heat stored in pistons again.
How about Reving up the engine at spray dpec. around 1500.RPM to preserve cooler viscosity.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-24-2024 at 03:57 AM.
Cali, what are your thoughts on adding oil catch cans for each side of engine?
I like the idea to collect vaporized oil before the plenum or intake valve stems.
It may now be unnecessary as we know how to stop vaporizing oil and limit crankcase pressure.
I call this "MOD2.1" when piston are normally sprayed at driving RPM, the engine stores minimal heat like a normal car as follows:
-- Oil pick up heat from sprayed pistons
-- Oil is cooled by coolant heat exchanger
-- Coolant temp is controlled by ECT and regulated by Tstat opening + Fan speed.
This is very effective way to remove extreme heat. Oil gets vaporized around 400F, not so much around 200F temps.
01-17-2024, 10:57 PM
