The Problem Video- https://youtu.be/FnDWkTH-pWk?feature=shared

Car- E250 2014 Facelift W212
Battery Fully charged Main and auxiliary both
Diesel Engine M651 D22 (651.924) OM 651

I am only facing this problem when car is cold/ standing overnight. My mechanic run the scanner and it has the following errors(images attached in ending).
NO ERRORS ON DASH AND NO OTHER PROBLEM FACING IN CAR EXCEPT DELAY FROM IGNITION TO CRANK. Please help!
CAN BUS under seat checked for water by mechanic! No water absolutely dry!

 

Your diesel engine takes a while before it decides it can crank when cold despite having perfect battery power.

The local specialist scanned the car with an excellent LAUNCH scanner. It shows all faults as STORED (ie. transients are not active), many of them pointing at lazy TCU response!! - Not to be ignored or brushed off.

Things almost could not be better. During troubleshooting be sure not to run down batteries.

=====
Here's my input... 2 prongs:

-#1- GLOW Control:
Go read your glow controller live data
look for data clues to guide your next step
Inspect the electrical feed of glow-plugs
Are all 4 plugs heating or fewer?


-#2- CAN COM's:
After Glow is proven good, go to town here...
Question CAN-C COM disruption.
This is the busy VIP bus, it needs to run fast
reset faults, reboot car (batteries off), then rescan to see what faults returns first: tranny?
I suspect a module is messing up your CAN-C, making it extra slow delays.


Main Chassis GND strap:
Starter cranks at normal speed sounds like connection is ok.


The odd part is delayed crank condition is cold only. That's screaming glow-plug control more than COM delays... all bets are on.

 

Sir, I got the error codes clear many times but they come back again once this delay start happens!
and I didn’t got the VIP Bus thing. I am not an expert just someone with a little more then basic knowledge. So if you can elaborate a little
thank you so much!

 

1. How long have you had the car?
2. When did the problem first show up?
3. How old are the batteries? (Cold weather weaken batteries)
4. How do you know the batteries are healthy? They can be fully charged and lose strength overnight.
5. As Cali mentioned, all your codes are STORED. Clear them and see which come back.
6. You implied that the problem does not occur when you have been driving a while. If it sits for a couple of hours, does the problem still occur?
7. How long is the car OFF overnight? 8 hours, 10 hours, 12 hours?
8. How long does it take before the engine actually starts?

 

Well you have chances we can get this working.

You've just provided a good clue:
the "stored" faults come back each time after cranking.
That confirms they are live transients.
So you do have a positively confirmed CAN disruption!

Now I bet you do have a major poor connection.
1- Either the chassis strap
2- Prefuse or F-SAM.

Essentially the power deeps down and crashes these VIP Modules on you fault report.

> Hands-ON:
Read voltages during the cold glowing period.
voltage deeps
crashes TCU
ECU needs drive-authorization (TCU!)

NOW is time to either go clean main strap or to test a bypass engine-chassis strap using a set of jumper cable for quick testing!
connect black to engine and other black to (-) BATT Post black side. (NOTHING connected to +/red) -Only black side.
We are creating 800Amps crank "starter" return path to Batt.
> Does this appear to shirten your bad delay??

 

1. Almost 6 months since I own it. It’s very very maintained by the previous owner.
2. This problem showed up recently when winters started or maybe the problem just showed up in winters.(20-25 days)
3. Batteries are just 14 Months old
4. I got it checked by the mechanic with his electronic device and individual cell in the battery too. (Attaching the report)

5. Got them cleared many times! They come back when the VIDEO thing happens. (Please see the video in attached youtube link if not seen yet)
6. It doesn’t do this when I drive it for few minutes or hours. Mainly happens when there’s a gap when car is OFF
7. 8-10 hour, but sometimes it happen even when car is OFF for 3 hours or so. Or just driven for 5-7 minutes and back to parking
8. Please see the video in attached youtube link if not seen yet. 55 seconds some times approx.
https://youtu.be/FnDWkTH-pWk?feature=shared

 

1. Where is chassis strap located exactly?
2. My mechanic checked all the fuses in front SAM. They all were fine.
3. My car has not even a single problem except the thing that happens in video. NO Dashboard errors

 

The main GND strap is located all the way under the car near muffler at the junction between trainy with engine.


main GND single strap
Try the bypass I talked about prior post, it's a faster test when you're focused on troubleshooting.

You SAM is good: nice!
How about Prefuse links: clean junctions to?

 

In bypass test I didn’t get which two black points are you talking about in jumper cable?

 

OK, that's crazy. Is your car an automatic or manual transmission? I noticed your feet did not move. You should have to apply the brake or clutch to start the car. The car starting "on its own" like that seems to be a hazard. I'd hate to be checking under the hood when that happens.

I found this: https://www.quora.com/Why-does-my-di...%20when%20cold.



But in your case, the engine doesn't even turn over until nearly a minute has passed. Therefore, something in the electronics is keeping the engine from starting. I'm beginning to think that there is a bad temperature sensor somewhere. Or, since this is your first winter with the car, it may have always acted this way when cold. Definitely get yourself a Mercedes-specific scanner. I recommend the LAUNCH Creader Elite BENZ 2.0. About $150 USD on Amazon in the United States. You need to see if there are any codes.

EDIT: I see you (or someone) has a LAUNCH scanner. Your codes can easily be associated with a weak battery or faulty grounding. However, the video is showing a different problem. Do ALL the codes come back, or only some codes?

You may actually need to scan your car with XENTRY since even LAUNCH is not 100% accurate with Mercedes, but neither are any third party scanners as good as XENTRY. You may want to go to an actual Mercedes dealer or reach out to @BenzNinja to diagnose your problem.

 

it's rather simple...
1- find the battery GND post at chassis : connect one side of black jumper cable.

2- find a chunky engine aluminum part. Connect the other end of black jumper cable to it. (red sides are unused).

This jumper cable setup bypasses the oxidized main chassis GND without getting under the car. If this makes your problem disappear, the main strap is ready to be serviced.
✌️

 

Here's the simple BYPASS TEST I am talking about:


Chunky engine GND area


Battery GND Post at chassis

When you connect the engine and the battery as shown above the oxidized engine-chassis undercarriage strap is bypassed.

This good secondary path results is a low resistance thus minimal drop voltage during 700A cranking.
Modules not powered by AUX don't see glitchy power.

Remove test-strap when test completed.

Proceed according to results: OEM strap oxidized?

Example of a secondary strap high and dry...


available engine bolt-in screw
Allow slack in thick cable for engine mount sways.


landing at chunky strut tower location

This cable can not get "shorted out"... as it is ground itself LOL
​​​​​​
Cranking the starter through oxidized single strap connection should be repaired at your leisure. Even new: one single screw connection is substandard.
Now you have options to make your chassis more reliable.

 

I use this "jumper cable" trick when I reboot my chassis. I do it that way to prevent high surge currents under my watch.

Disconnecting:
I remove the #13 brass chassis post for battery strap while car is asleep. Current is minimal and sleep will heal crazy SAMs and associates.


Reconnecting :
I use jumper from engine directly to the battery (-) post so Hyundai or computers do not see any surge spikes:
Only one clean bite connection.

Then after the GND circuit connection is made, I am clear to easily reconnect the brass post without any current going through it while it is bypassed by my jumper cable.

We reboot the chassis to clear gateway work stacks of sleepless FRONT_SAM/CGW. This Bosch module gets overwhelmed by traffic jam created by slow solderless modules.
It sucks by design, right out of the gate.
✌️
​​​​​​

 

Cali,
The issue is with Relay R.
Post #32 on my thread OP/he has informed me, as he was asking me 2 days earlier than this post. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8910953

To OP / Spruce,
You should tell the members in this post the issue being solved already and what was the cause.
That is the correct and polite way in a friendly forum such like here, and members like Cali has spend so much time helping you.
Do not ONLY spend time when you are desperate , be nice and spend a bit more time with update, so this post can be CLOSED, as Solved.

 

I thought I had reported at both the threads that I have solved the problem! That was not intentionally! Sorry and thanks to everyone for your time and efforts!