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Hello everyone! I have a 2011 Mercedes E350 4Matic that is leaking brake fluid near the front drivers side wheel well. I'm trying to find part diagrams and/or part numbers. Is it possible to buy pre bent lines? It's to cold too see where the actual leak is coming from at the moment, but I'm assuming a line has corroded. As soon as I add brake fluid it can be seen leaking from near the fender. I called the dealership and they are quoting over $5000 to repair it if it is a line. Any advise or help is much appreciated.
Yes, one or both of your rear brake lines is rusted out behind the firewall, mine did the same and leaked from the same spot, the factory steel lines are almost impossible to use, I replaced with copper nickel brake lines all the way to the brake hose mounts, I also had to replace the brake shields, so did the rear axleshafts and bearings while I had it apart to replace the shields, took me nine hours to do the lines and five more for the brake shields with bearings and axle shafts, but I'm 65, so slow.If you do choose to take this on, you'll want to inspect your rear subframe for cracks and rust holes, mercedes gave it a 20 year warranty and you likely need one or will soon. I believe the parts bill for all of that above was less than 500 dollars.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 01-19-2024 at 09:14 AM.
I personally would look at your brake booster and reservoir to see if that is the source.
Sure, if in fact it is the booster, master cylinder or reservoir, let me know because I have all three new in box, genuine Mercedes, which you can have for half price I originally thought it was the rubber gaskets between the master cylinder and the reservoir
Yes, one or both of your rear brake lines is rusted out behind the firewall, mine did the same and leaked from the same spot, the factory steel lines are almost impossible to use, I replaced with copper nickel brake lines all the way to the brake hose mounts, I also had to replace the brake shields, so did the rear axleshafts and bearings while I had it apart to replace the shields, took me nine hours to do the lines and five more for the brake shields with bearings and axle shafts, but I'm 65, so slow.If you do choose to take this on, you'll want to inspect your rear subframe for cracks and rust holes, mercedes gave it a 20 year warranty and you likely need one or will soon. I believe the parts bill for all of that above was less than 500 dollars.
Did you have to drop the rear sub frame and how was it getting to the connections behind the firewall? Thanks.
I had a pinhole leak under the drivers side on one of the brake pipes. I watched some tutorials on YouTube and ordered cupro (copper nickel) brake line and the inline flaring tool from fedhillusa.com. I had to splice a 18 inch long length into the existing brake pipe and attach flare nuts and connectors. I had the car up on QuickJacks and was able to do it fairly easily for my first time. The dealership will not do this type of patch...they will only replace the entire run for liability reasons. Try asking reputable indys in your area if they will handle splices once you figure out where it is leaking from. If you decide to do the rear brake pipes, the subframe will have to be dropped because the one line goes above the frame closest to the body. When I went in for the subframe warranty replacement, the SA at the dealer pointed out that the rear brake pipe had corrosion and recommended it to be changed...I think the quote was @3k if I remember correctly. Bear in mind, they'll replace with the same steel line which is prone to corrosion. I declined and will cross that bridge when the time comes but replace with cupro line.
Did you have to drop the rear sub frame and how was it getting to the connections behind the firewall? Thanks.
Nope, I ran the line through the firewall first, then connected it to the anti-lock brake block, then removed old line from frame channels and retainers as I went back to the rear, the bendable brake line was much easier to work with than the factory lacquer coated steel, I did use a line bender to make it look good, if i remember correctly, the 50 ft of line was 125.00, the two dust shields were 180.00 for both and the rear axle shafts with bearings were 320.00 for the pair all MB parts. Obviously not the brake lines, I don't specifically remember what the on line dealer wanted for the new MB steel lines, but it was a lot more than 125.00 and these won't rust. I would have done the rear brake hoses too, but they had been replaced at my last brake job.
p.s. Raj is correct about the subframe with steel lines, the bendable copper makes it possible to feed it through the rear with out messing with the subframe.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 01-20-2024 at 09:00 AM.
I had a pinhole leak under the drivers side on one of the brake pipes. I watched some tutorials on YouTube and ordered cupro (copper nickel) brake line and the inline flaring tool from fedhillusa.com. I had to splice a 18 inch long length into the existing brake pipe and attach flare nuts and connectors. I had the car up on QuickJacks and was able to do it fairly easily for my first time. The dealership will not do this type of patch...they will only replace the entire run for liability reasons. Try asking reputable indys in your area if they will handle splices once you figure out where it is leaking from. If you decide to do the rear brake pipes, the subframe will have to be dropped because the one line goes above the frame closest to the body. When I went in for the subframe warranty replacement, the SA at the dealer pointed out that the rear brake pipe had corrosion and recommended it to be changed...I think the quote was @3k if I remember correctly. Bear in mind, they'll replace with the same steel line which is prone to corrosion. I declined and will cross that bridge when the time comes but replace with cupro line.
I think I'll try going to route for now just to have the car drivable, but as @pierrejoliat said I'll have to replace the whole lines.
This seems to be a very common problem with our cars and maybe one day we'll get a recall/warranty extension for it. I found this article from 2020: https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2...350-cars.shtml. Just incase anyone comes across this forum I'll post some extra information. I ended up going to the dealer to get a quote and I do not recommend anyone go this route. I'll attempt to splice in a patch for now so the car is drivable. I will see if I'm able to tackle this myself when the weather gets warmer as the entire line needs to be replaced. I will also be reaching out to local shops and getting estimates (If I go that route I'll post the estimate). I have attached a quote from my local Mercedes dealer (that labor is wild) as well as where the leak is and the condition of the lines in the rear. Thank you for everyone's help it was greatly appreciated.
I replaced both rear lines on my wagon right after Christmas. I didn't drop the rear subframe. It was a pretty big job but not the worst. Ask me about replacing valve cover gaskets on a flat 6 Subie😬 If you live in Michigan you can bring it to my house and I'll do it for a lot less than $5k sheesh.
01-19-2024, 08:43 AM
If you do choose to take this on, you'll want to inspect your rear subframe for cracks and rust holes, mercedes gave it a 20 year warranty and you likely need one or will soon. I believe the parts bill for all of that above was less than 500 dollars.
I originally thought it was the rubber gaskets between the master cylinder and the reservoir
