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I have some codes on this 2014 E350, one of which being a P2279 (intake air system leak), so I've narrowed down the general area where the hissing/leaking sound is coming from. When I pump air into the intake I hear the hissing on the rear passenger side of the engine, right next to the battery. I can't quite seem to find any air piping there, if anyone has any ideas/diagrams of air systems there that would be greatly appreciated. If you have any questions, ask away.
I have some codes on this 2014 E350, one of which being a P2279 (intake air system leak), so I've narrowed down the general area where the hissing/leaking sound is coming from. When I pump air into the intake I hear the hissing on the rear passenger side of the engine, right next to the battery. I can't quite seem to find any air piping there, if anyone has any ideas/diagrams of air systems there that would be greatly appreciated. If you have any questions, ask away.
What you're hearing is the crankcase diaphragm PCV calling you. It's plastic and rubber... while in there you have to remove the HPFP, so replace the follower-roller now.
Assorted to that chances are you have high blowby venting... so you want to lookup/fix your vacuum pump check-valve.
If you're on the fence for your sparkplugs job, now would be an easier task while intake plenum is removed... did someone say CPS pigtail?
Your suggested part list :
PCV cover
Roller-follower
green silicon 6x intake seals
(vacuum pump check valve)
What you're hearing is the crankcase diaphragm PCV calling you. It's plastic and rubber... while in there you have to remove the HPFP, so replace the follower-roller now.
Assorted to that chances are you have high blowby venting... so you want to lookup/fix your vacuum pump check-valve.
If you're on the fence for your sparkplugs job, now would be an easier task while intake plenum is removed... did someone say CPS pigtail?
Your suggested part list :
PCV cover
Roller-follower
green silicon 6x intake seals
(vacuum pump check valve)
I sprayed some soapy water on it and it didn't seem to bubble, but I'll put like a glove around it to see if the glove inflates I suppose. This thing is not supposed to leak air I assume, right? I mean the engine isn't running when I did this, I took off the throttle valve and pumped air into the intake manifold to narrow down the location of the hissing, so could it be normal that it vented the excess air that I pumped into the intake manifold? Thanks for the response, very helpful
I sprayed some soapy water on it and it didn't seem to bubble, but I'll put like a glove around it to see if the glove inflates I suppose. This thing is not supposed to leak air I assume, right? I mean the engine isn't running when I did this, I took off the throttle valve and pumped air into the intake manifold to narrow down the location of the hissing, so could it be normal that it vented the excess air that I pumped into the intake manifold? Thanks for the response, very helpful
I think you're starting to understand whete the air pressure you're pumping inside the intake plenum is escaping from...
Normally the air pressure travels the other way. Blowby gases escape through the PCV valve to intake then out through running cylinders.
What is you current mileage??
Do you have the last 50.kMi service history... we'll tell you what charges are missing, ok?
PCV is a sort of 100kMi anniversary bell - Of course with a high blowby engine, PCV diaphragm gets deep-fried cooked... around 75kMi (65 to 80k).
Good maintenance is done on schedule. Emergency repairs are accounted $3k at the time.
I think you're starting to understand whete the air pressure you're pumping inside the intake plenum is escaping from...
Normally the air pressure travels the other way. Blowby gases escape through the PCV valve to intake then out through running cylinders.
What is you current mileage??
Do you have the last 50.kMi service history... we'll tell you what charges are missing, ok?
PCV is a sort of 100kMi anniversary bell - Of course with a high blowby engine, PCV diaphragm gets deep-fried cooked... around 75kMi (65 to 80k).
Good maintenance is done on schedule. Emergency repairs are accounted $3k at the time.
Current milage on this car is a hair under 200k, not sure on the service history because it's not my car to be honest. I think I'm just going to replace the intake seals because they seem to be overdue anyways, and go from there.
Current milage on this car is a hair under 200k, not sure on the service history because it's not my car to be honest. I think I'm just going to replace the intake seals because they seem to be overdue anyways, and go from there.
sounds like a plan.
If its not your car, this low stress.
Start or with the engine running
Open the oil fill cap
while paying attention to hissing
if hissing stops or reduces with oil cap open then you know what to do: PCV.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Your suggested part list :
PCV cover
Roller-follower
green silicon 6x intake seals
(vacuum pump check valve)
You forgot spark plugs, as well. He has the same engine as I do (maybe you, too) and if he's going thru the trouble of removing the intake plenum, might as well do the plugs, too. The M276 is a pain in the butt for changing plugs. I need to check, but does the NA M276 have a vacuum pump like the turbo version?
You forgot spark plugs, as well. He has the same engine as I do (maybe you, too) and if he's going thru the trouble of removing the intake plenum, might as well do the plugs, too.
The M276 is a pain in the butt for changing plugs. I need to check, but does the NA M276 have a vacuum pump like the turbo version?
I know, initially I had the plugs service in there but took 'em of the list to stick to PCV. I was going to include chain tensioners and CPS leakers because it very likely needs all that jazz.
Yes, M276-NA does have vacuum pump that really appreciates the low blow-by condition. I have a superior break booster power now. Amazed each time I stop now.
Well I took the intake off and there seems to be quite a bit of oil in there, normal?
Also I did snap a vacuum line like an idiot, any tips to repair it?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Show us a picture of the vacuum line.
When replacing the manifold, place the green seals on the engine first. I used some silicone grease on the intake plenum so that they would not stick to it like they did in your picture. When you replace it, you want the seals to remain on the engine should you need to lift and adjust the manifold.
When replacing the manifold, place the green seals on the engine first. I used some silicone grease on the intake plenum so that they would not stick to it like they did in your picture. When you replace it, you want the seals to remain on the engine should you need to lift and adjust the manifold.
This is right at the top left handside of the intake for context.
It wasn't too hard to remove the seals from the intake plenum, I just was able to grab them, but I will be putting my new seals on the engine first. When I bought them, the picture had green seals, but **** the seller sent me some blue seals, but I guess I will just have to work with it now.
Well, bad news. Put everything back together, topped off the oil to right at the max line, and drove for about 4 miles. Drove fine. I parked it for a couple of hours and check the oil, and wow it burned it right down to a quarter of the oil fill zone.
Well, bad news. Put everything back together, topped off the oil to right at the max line, and drove for about 4 miles. Drove fine. I parked it for a couple of hours and check the oil, and wow it burned it right down to a quarter of the oil fill zone.
It sounds like your engine is using a lot of oil very quickly.
You've replaced PCV but oil consumption has not normalized.
In this engine oil can go one of two ways: it drinks through the intake or it burns it through the cylinders.
It sounds like one of your cylinder may be under the weather with one or more messed up cylinder rings.
Do a cylinder bore scope or eye ball each individual sparkplugs for combustion residues. Compression test will give you clear evidence.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 01-28-2024 at 03:46 AM.
It sounds like your engine is using a lot of oil very quickly.
You've replaced PCV but oil consumption has not normalized.
In this engine oil can go one of two ways: it drinks through the intake or it burns it through the cylinders.
It sounds like one of your cylinder may be under the weather with one or more messed up cylinder rings.
Do a cylinder bore scope or eye ball each individual sparkplugs for combustion residues. Compression test will give you clear evidence.
🤞
No I have not replaced PCV yet, only intake seals thus far. I think my next best step is to replace PCV though. I will do compression test if it doesn't work.
No I have not replaced PCV yet, only intake seals thus far. I think my next best step is to replace PCV though. I will do compression test if it doesn't work.
The PCV does the wistling while the cylinder rings are doing the blowing. A new PCV diaphragm will help hold pressure for some time....
Suggest using an oil with better viscosity to help seal the carbonated piston rings.
High blow-by is usually also associated with a bad check valve at the vacuum pump. It's cheap replacement at bank-2 rear of exhaust camshaft.
🤞
Just pulled off the old PCV (left) and compared with the new PCV (right). Is this huge expansion on the old one causing the air leak? Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the car burns a lot of oil before, but anyway, what are your thoughts on this guys?
Just pulled off the old PCV (left) and compared with the new PCV (right). Is this huge expansion on the old one causing the air leak? Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the car burns a lot of oil before, but anyway, what are your thoughts on this guys?
You fixed the whistle 👏
worned out seal diameter
The gap between the seal and the shaft lets out more blow-by gases.
Now with smaller gap where is the extreme pressure going to escape ?
>>> Timely action now: Replace your CPS and VVT solenoids real soon to prevent "oil-in-harness" at your ECU/Lambdas.
The heart of that high-pressure loss situation is carbonated piston rings. What oil was used in this car ??
It may be a good idea to run a 10W-50 in summer... or your own blend of 6quarts of W40 + balance in W50... a sort of homemade Marvel's oil known as engine HONEY.
You got to seal your leaky cylinders. Is there a prive way to clean stuck rings like on the Toyotas?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 02-04-2024 at 08:15 PM.
The gap between the seal and the shaft lets out more blow-by gases.
Now with smaller gap where is the extreme pressure going to escape ?
>>> Timely action now: Replace your CPS and VVT solenoids real soon to prevent "oil-in-harness" at your ECU/Lambdas.
The heart of that high-pressure loss situation is carbonated piston rings. What oil was used in this car ??
It may be a good idea to run a 10W-50 in summer... or your own blend of 6quarts of W40 + balance in W50... a sort of homemade Marvel's oil known as engine HONEY.
You got to seal your leaky cylinders. Is there a prive way to clean stuck rings like on the Toyotas?
Yeah, it looks very worn out. To answer your questions, this car was run on 5W-30 as far as I know. Probably should run something more viscous to help with the piston seals right?
Yeah, it looks very worn out. To answer your questions, this car was run on 5W-30 as far as I know. Probably should run something more viscous to help with the piston seals right?
That's for sure
Right now your engine power is reduced because of imbalanced cylinders. This is taxing engine mounts with harmonic vibrations.
Take it easy with performance demand. It is running extra hot due to all the friction loses.
10W-40 will bring back 30% of missing power.
Lambda, tensioners...
🤞