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about 2 months ago, I would get the ABS, ESP, and all the safety control inoperative lights on the dash when it started raining. When it stopped raining or driving in dry weather, I would not get the error. Recently in snow, I got the error again and it stayed on this time. I lost all of the ABS and ESP and lane changing safety programs.
I scanned with iSoft scanner and got the code C01A100 - component ‘A7/3m1 (High pressure flow and return pump) is defective or it’s power supply has and open circuit or short circuit’. I was hoping it was just a whee sensor but I would have gotten a code for that. Any one els experience this or is my ABS/module toast?
ESP deals with brakes and as such you don't really want to temper with your brake controller. This is Bosch advanced crown jewel.
Usually the rear radars get soaked through the loose wiring seals but here you managed to get an internal ESP code.
Do you have any other faults besides ESP module?
--1-- 75% chance It maybe one of the many solderless pins is causing a poor connection
or
--2-- 25% chance it maybe an old fashion painted GND causing a poor connection as well.
> Troubleshooting:
- Clean the nearby ESP GND post with power out.
- Inspect the ESP harness connector for oxidation
- Get PCB resoldered with no parts and no coding necessary
- Else replace ESP Module with a matching unitcoded to your car by a specialist.
Hope this help you resolve this.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 28, 2024 at 04:28 PM.
I was able to view data on the scan tool: Tried to clear but didn't work
Supply voltage of component a7/3m1 = 0v
supply voltage of control module = 14.96V
Supply voltage of valves and output stages 14.88v
I looked for the grounding area to the body but didn't see any. I'll take a look again tomorrow hopefully with better light. Unless someone can help post location. Same with harness corrosion... I'll see if that's it. But I did notice some water in the area under the brake booster. Maybe drain blockage there?
I've had relay issues before solved by S-Prihadi where I couldn't start the car in freezing Temps- was just a bad relay. Was able to start it for over one year now with a $6 relay (dealer wanted $10k lol) am hoping it's something easy.
I was able to view data on the scan tool: Tried to clear but didn't work
Supply voltage of component a7/3m1 = 0v
supply voltage of control module = 14.96V
Supply voltage of valves and output stages 14.88v
I looked for the grounding area to the body but didn't see any. I'll take a look again tomorrow hopefully with better light. Unless someone can help post location. Same with harness corrosion... I'll see if that's it. But I did notice some water in the area under the brake booster. Maybe drain blockage there?
I've had relay issues before solved by S-Prihadi where I couldn't start the car in freezing Temps- was just a bad relay. Was able to start it for over one year now with a $6 relay (dealer wanted $10k lol) am hoping it's something easy.
Parking sensors work by the way.
Thanks!
Okay, this raises a flag: "Supply voltage of component a7/3m1 = 0v"
I hope it's another $5 repair and not the $5k ESP job, right?
If you can confirm the connector pin has power and the circuit has a clean GND then ESP needs work.
One would say: first check the fuses then trace the ESP schematics.
🤞
about 2 months ago, I would get the ABS, ESP, and all the safety control inoperative lights on the dash when it started raining. When it stopped raining or driving in dry weather, I would not get the error.Recently in snow, I got the error again and it stayed on this time. I lost all of the ABS and ESP and lane changing safety programs.
I scanned with iSoft scanner and got the code C01A100 - component ‘A7/3m1 (High pressure flow and return pump) is defective or it’s power supply has and open circuit or short circuit’. I was hoping it was just a whee sensor but I would have gotten a code for that. Any one els experience this or is my ABS/module toast?
Appreciate any advice.
I believe this is bad ground as MAIN SUSPECT.
This module N30/4 uses 2 power supplies.
1 power supply is for big ABS motor
1 more smaller power supply for the logic board.
Depending on your car being RHD or LHD and if a B03 Start Stop version, these 2 fuses can come BOTH from Front SAM or F32 Prefuse.
.
W70 ground is not at a good place when it comes to being wet and salty from snow road treatment.
Yep, you must remove the plastic fender inner liner
Sorry for the delay. Was able to get to the grounds and cleaned them up but code still persists. The first fuse in the Front fuse box is the one that goes to the abs is good also. Is there anything else I need to check, before buying a new/used abs pump? Additionally all brake lines are a disaster in this car. Rear sub-frame is also about to go. MBUSA says they can't help me until it's completely broken (or dead I guess in a tree) .
You can't give up yet.
Make sure the wired connector side get power (+12V ) to it and ground. Test it with light load like a test light and then with minimum 50 watts bulb.
Confirm which ones are pin 1 and 25 for positive and 13 and 38 for ground. For sure 13 is visible from your photo.
.
Confirm the other 3 big male terminals, what are their numbers ?
Usually at the wired connector side with the female terminals, there will be pin numbers too.
If anything goes wrong, it is always the FEMALE terminal starting to loose its bite/tension.
Here is tricky if you do not have the genuine same type male terminal to test the "bite". But you can access it if they are too loose by feel and close up
magnified inspection.
At the esp module side, look at all its male terminal pins for sign of discoloration, signaling bad contact or oxidation.
I hope you can do the load test first on the wired connector .
Typical MALE terminal thickness is 0.75mm if for those big size ones (4) .
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Feb 4, 2024 at 12:50 AM.
I’ve been driving my second car mostly. But today was able to double check the fuses. I didn’t see it the first time because it doesn’t look the the other fuses - but the big 40A fuse (orange one) is blown. I got another one, errors went away! and went for a drive. The errors came right back on again after 30 seconds. Checked again and new fuse now is also broken.
I’ve been driving my second car mostly. But today was able to double check the fuses. I didn’t see it the first time because it doesn’t look the the other fuses - but the big 40A fuse (orange one) is blown. I got another one, errors went away! and went for a drive. The errors came right back on again after 30 seconds. Checked again and new fuse now is also broken.
what could this be?
Ok, your test now shows the big 40A orange fuse circuit is what's overloaded.
The question becomes what condition is causing that large fuse to blow (over 500W) ?
Yry to identify what components are supplied by that circuit branch. Then use ohmmeter on powered down car to measure circui load while disconnecting parts.
He good afternoon I just had that problem a wee ago with my 06 CLS500 I took it to dealership and they had a recall on the SBC Hydraulic system would have cost me 2500 they said but it was free 25 to 30 year warranty on them they said certain models so check it out any questions message me good luck
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Gixxer75008
He good afternoon I just had that problem a wee ago with my 06 CLS500 I took it to dealership and they had a recall on the SBC Hydraulic system would have cost me 2500 they said but it was free 25 to 30 year warranty on them they said certain models so check it out any questions message me good luck
Have you tried punctuation marks in your written communications? They're amazing!
That said, the SBC extended warranty was announced several years ago and registered owners received a letter from Mercedes Benz about it. Always a good idea to register your car with Mercedes. Not sure it's done automatically.
Last edited by JettaRed; Feb 10, 2024 at 02:40 PM.
Ok, your test now shows the big 40A orange fuse circuit is what's overloaded.
The question becomes what condition is causing that large fuse to blow (over 500W) ?
Yry to identify what components are supplied by that circuit branch. Then use ohmmeter on powered down car to measure circui load while disconnecting parts.
Hear me out on my theory - I think my ABS unit is bad. Initially when the problem started, it was in rain. In rain the car “primes” the brakes to remove the water on the rotors. So the ABS unit is triggered - hence why I think I got the error. Now, since it’s permanently an error and breaks the fuse, my thought is that the ABS or the “brains/module” is trying to kick in an ABS trigger for a test - and then tries to over load which hence blows the fuse. Does this make sense? Or should I keep looking for an electrical upstream issue?
Hear me out on my theory - I think my ABS unit is bad. Initially when the problem started, it was in rain. In rain the car “primes” the brakes to remove the water on the rotors. So the ABS unit is triggered - hence why I think I got the error. Now, since it’s permanently an error and breaks the fuse, my thought is that the ABS or the “brains/module” is trying to kick in an ABS trigger for a test - and then tries to over load which hence blows the fuse. Does this make sense? Or should I keep looking for an electrical upstream issue?
The 40 amps fuse I strongly believe is for the MOTOR only, of the ABS Pump Assy.
The smaller fuse is for the logic board and the 8 valves it need to operate.
The ABS motor can jammed up.
Here is a typical tear down of an ABS motor and notice how the 2 long prongs power connector from ABS logic board provide power to the motor.
This motor can seize if not the carbon brush worn out.
Our ABS / ESP system is probably by ATE.
This is a good teardown video to see how our ABS - ESP electrohydraulic unit works.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by MercFiveHundred
Hear me out on my theory - I think my ABS unit is bad. Initially when the problem started, it was in rain. In rain the car “primes” the brakes to remove the water on the rotors. So the ABS unit is triggered - hence why I think I got the error. Now, since it’s permanently an error and breaks the fuse, my thought is that the ABS or the “brains/module” is trying to kick in an ABS trigger for a test - and then tries to over load which hence blows the fuse. Does this make sense? Or should I keep looking for an electrical upstream issue?
Where do you get your information about "priming" the brakes when wet? I'd like to read that. I'm pretty sure a spinning disc isn't going to hold water and would evaporate any residual moisture within milliseconds of applying the brakes. Of course, these are Mercedes and I am probably wrong.
I recall that brake thing too. Maybe it was a MB commercial or who knows what, but I remember it. I thought it weird they would put safety above emissions. If the car is totaled then you'd buy a newer car, which they want. If you died then the gov can no longer profit from you. Regardless of anything the gov says, $ is the root of all decisions, so I guess warm brakes it is? I'm only half joking btw...
I've never heard or felt any car do it, but maybe they managed to pull it off so it's not noticeable? Or maybe it's all just a rumor, but would love to know either way.
All the cars I've had in the past 20yrs don't seem to care much if the discs are wet. Maybe it's because they work so well normally that a 50% loss is still more than you need. I do remember some old 70's pos I had did care. Disc brakes would be iffy for a couple seconds, then work normally. I don't mean a little iffy, I mean you think you lost your brakes and a crash in imminent, iffy. Once cooled down, you get to live it all over again, so I'd often warm/dry the brakes manually.
Yes, our W212 has the dry-the-wet-brake feature.
If you go to WIS, and download all about braking-stability-ABS yada yada, you will find it.
I am not at my man cave , so the data is in my PC there and I can share when I am back in a week from now.
When I rebuilt my front 4 piston brembo caliper seals, I got deep into the braking-esp-abs system to know if I could bleed the ABS and learnt more about the
system.
The 40 amps fuse I strongly believe is for the MOTOR only, of the ABS Pump Assy.
The smaller fuse is for the logic board and the 8 valves it need to operate.
The ABS motor can jammed up.
Here is a typical tear down of an ABS motor and notice how the 2 long prongs power connector from ABS logic board provide power to the motor.
This motor can seize if not the carbon brush worn out.
Our ABS / ESP system is probably by ATE.
This is a good teardown video to see how our ABS - ESP electrohydraulic unit works. https://youtu.be/zmkAuDSU1Zo
OMG, thank you MS for your gently stimulating vacation interest.
Okay I kinda recall some one was dealing with this solderless stuff not long ago GREAT INTERESTING VIDEO
>> NUTSHELL REVIEW:
- The dry 40A motor drive needs service to get a lubricant factor: oil?
- The 40A go through eco-sized contact, lub-clean-service that!
- The loose pin provide gentle disfunctioning assisted by goofy firmware code - Safe reasons.
- Solder using good temp regulated iron and not too fast such as in video. Heat well the pins better that cold joint.
- I use DistronicPlus auto-braking and Brake-Assist all the time almost exclusively. The brakes in this car are from heaven - so far 😂... 40A pump motor contact pins: big job!
- RTV sealing case is piece of cake, no heatsink surface involved. Open it carefully not to damage any single internal (else $$$) discreat surface mounted component: SMD.
- Video guy missed an opportunity to siliconize the PCB with conformal coating. BEWARE NOT TO OVERSPRAY 40A motor connector socket pins. Use a brush applicator or tape around clean
- I just got done visiting the radar of my Distro+ without gaining acces to its PCB. Great liece of high-tech GigaHz antennae
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2024 at 04:22 AM.
I found a junkyard unit with the same part number (apparently there are at least 3 part numbers for the w212... and the same part number is on the module too - it’s sold as a packaged unit) It was 100USD came with the metal holding bracket and module. New - the total unit ex bracket is 1,000USD.
I did not use the bracket. It was totally different, but wish I could have used it. The donor part was metal while my original was plastic. Also the mounting holes for the bolts were spaced differently.
I did not use the donor module as it needs to be coded to the vin#. So I swapped the original module (and bracket) to the donor ABS unit.
I replaced the 40A fuse and reset the code using my iCarsoft scanner... and success! So far. If the codes pop up again will be back lol.
Few tips for doing this job, get some plastic/rubber vacuum caps to cover the brakes lines when you remove them from the unit - to keep them from dripping. There are a lot of hoses and cables routed near the bottom
of the bracket so be careful. The harness is attached to the bracket via a plastic zip tie which you have to separate from the bracket. If you have the metal bracket style - you can just pull the unit from the bracket just be careful, no need to unbolt from the frame. The plastic bracket has washers underneath to hold the unit to the bracket so it’s not possible to separate until you remove everything from the vehicle and have access to the torx bolt underneath the unit. Everything is then plug and play (remember which of the 6 brakes lines go where on the unit by taking a picture). A good brake bleed, a new 40A, and a code reset... and you are done!
I wanted to mention, I also sanded down the rusty break line behind the fender liner and the two rear lines that go into the rubber brake hose. Sprayed rusty metal primer on it and will check up on later to see if I need more drastic measure. Can’t believe how rusty they are - I believe a production issue because of not enough clear coat protection on the lines - which is why it rusts more on snap in junction points and curved points. This should be a safety issue...
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