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I recently bought my e63s 5 months ago and I noticed shaking/vibration at the wheel,pedal and throughout the whole car at speeds of 90mph+ I took my car to the MB dealership and they told me that the problem was tires and bent rims Come to find out my rims were not bent but my tires did need replacing. I replaced the tires however the vibration/shaking still remain. What could be the issue ?
I recently bought my e63s 5 months ago and I noticed shaking/vibration at the wheel,pedal and throughout the whole car at speeds of 90mph+ I took my car to the MB dealership and they told me that the problem was tires and bent rims Come to find out my rims were not bent but my tires did need replacing. I replaced the tires however the vibration/shaking still remain. What could be the issue ?
I have the same car and had the same issue. Had a bent rim. The dealership(s) (I took to three of them because it annoyed me that much) said my wheels weren't bent. Took it to an indy and the guy literally said "wheel is bent, come look, its wobbling". That solved it. 90% chance it is one of your fronts.
A good trained eye at a wheel balancing shop can tell if your rim/wheel is a bit bent.
Some good wheel balancer like Hunter's Road Force unit has sensors to detect wheel/rim minor out of shape.
Agree with above. Also, consider examining for a cracked/repaired rim. Previously, I had a crack on the inside of the rim, very difficult to casually locate for driver and no leak. Eventually, discovered, repaired and, then, vibrated.
If you come back to forum, post your location, some forum members may know a good rim repair shop local to you. I went to four shops before I was satisfied with the repair.
If you have a 'square' setup, you can rotate the wheels to locate which rim(s) are the problem (if it is a rim). GLWrepair.
Small world, two weeks ago I got me the nasty high speed vibration. The bouncing around only starts above 65MPH. At lower speeds, everything is about fine.
I was driving home through road construction when I heard a loud bang while exiting the 4 lanes area.
I jacked up the front end to reveal free play between 12 and 6 o'clock.
Nothing between 9 and 3.
Great: the steering tie rods and the well hub bearing are fine.
both 1+2 arms usea lower BJ
What's left? The strut plus the two ball joints.
The question then becomes which BJ ??
At 55kMi. I am going to guess both BJ + FWD CTL arms.
We know the forward control arms have a hard life controlling the toe. Does that mean the rearwards arms have it easy.... probably not.
I am thinking this may be my call for front end tune-up with a set of Mevotech upgrades.
I wasn't expecting "MB OEM grade" to poop like that. The next set won't ✌️
+++ 1 or 2 or both:
Right now my 11YR old bushings were equally soft and balanced.
As soon as I replace a single control arm only, it will overpower the weak OEM bushing.
As always fix both sides equal to keep things balanced.
++++ MOOG vs MEVOTECH....
OEM upgrade arms and BJ should be??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2024 at 02:18 AM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
