Ah, that explains it, ya I heard about those test before didn't actually got curious enough to conduct one though.

 

They're easy and you really don't have to study for it either.

 

I guess I am still lazy

 

only part time lazy now that you finally pulled ALT-LIN, you can nurse your back pain

 

True... I can't wait to try the vehicle out but it will have to be next week at this rate of recovery.

 

I did the reboot today and, contrary to what I was expecting, I could tell a difference. Responsiveness was good and shifts were nice and consistent. I know something changed because my instrument cluster changed the main view. The normal view is to have the gears up top and the temp and time on the bottom. Immediately after reconnecting everything and starting the car, there was a view with the gear selection on the bottom and the temp and time on the top. But upon restarting the car, the view returned to "normal". Weird!

Nothing else seemed to have changed. My tranny had been shifting fine before, but it was just different after the chassis reboot.


Normal view. Temp and time on the bottom. Changed (temporary) view. Temp and time up top.

 

 

JR: your chassis is at the point where you can tell what makes it work better: you deserve it!

This is testimony that ECU/TCU timings are related to CAN. Rebooting partner modules makes the powertrain run noticeably better. 👏

Conversely *not* rebooting accrues CAN latencies that F*'s up ECU/TCU courtesy of Bosch state of the art [ECU - ESP - CGW] modules.


That quick reboot is well worth it in addition to an AGM Float.

This is incentives to keep improving CAN networking...

 

I had my "old" main battery on a reconditioning CTEK charger for the last year or so. I stuck that in the car since I feel it's been floating around for a while. (Damned thing is heavy, though.) I put the battery I took out on the trickle charger. If I start having electrical problems, I'll put my "new" battery back in. I had both my main and auxiliary batteries disconnected for a little over 30 minutes.

 

glad you feel your car better, does your AUX battery is the same as Cali ones and not as our w205s?

 

The Main Battery is in the trunk in the center of the car.




Main Battery


The Auxiliary Battery is behind the passenger seat.



Additional (Auxiliary) Battery

 

i see, so you don't have as ours in w205 which seems the reboot in your case is doable, so i guess with w205 we have to stick only with float without reboot.. :/

 

Kristiyan... you over simplified the reboot step because of your AUX-CAP.

Reboot is a worthy step that you should execute to help sanitize CAN-Bus timings.

-- You need to find out what is the AUX-CAP replacement procedure... you don't want to surge that module dead, right?
-- Find out how to deal with limiting its charge current.

 

im not trying to simplify the procedure but last time i understood for our w205 we can go only with FLOAT if we don't find way for REBOOT which im not able to do unfortunately.. but why to replace the AUX battery it if it's fine? also if it's fine it should have current as low as possible? and if it's bad to show high numbers? (in the case when ALT LIN is unplugged)

 

Q: Why find/use the WIS replacement AUX-CAP procedure?

If you disconnect AUX-CAP, it then needs to be reconnected in circuit after the reboot.

For that step, it will need to "charge up" a bit as if it was a new unit.

Uncontrolled high-current can damage this AUX-CAP unit. The best way to reconnect is with no high-current surge. I am hopping the new unit procedure has a way to charge up a drained AUX-CAP unit.

I'd rather you don't deal with it than mess up a nearly bad unit because these modules are built to go bad faster than AUX-BATT.

 

that's the reason i don't want to experiment by myself, because im not good at this things as you guys, instead I would follow specific steps (if there were any but not for w205), so I will skip the experiment with something that can cause another issues

 

Hmmm looks like I have some catching up to do soon, didn't had a chance to read this thread the last couple of days...

 

I understand. One of the things that happened when I did the Chassis Reboot was I got a persistent DTC that the battery to one (or more) of my TPMS sensors had failed even though there was no IC message and all the pressures displayed normally. I tried clearing it but it would come back as CURRENT and STORED. I didn't say anything because I thought it may have already been there. So, with a little research which said to do a TPMS reset while driving, I did. That's the reset you do when driving that shows the tire pressures and the option to reset and restart the monitoring. After that, I was able to clear the DTC with my LAUNCH scanner.

The point to that story is that you must be comfortable with making changes and know what your limits are. In your case, you seem to have done that. As more people try this and share their experiences, you may become more comfortable.

I still don't understand the purpose of the ALT-LIN and why disconnecting it appears beneficial, but since others have had it disconnected for quite a while without negative consequences, I'm willing to try. Disconnecting the oil pump solenoid is different in that I better understand the engineering behind it and the purposes of two-stage oil pumps are well documented -- they seem purely to improve fuel usage at the risk of increased wear. Therefore, I choose longevity over a few feet/gallon fuel consumption.

 

S-Prihadi did a great layperson write up this morning on the ALT-LIN disconnect if you haven't seen it yet

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9117068

Easy logical read.
We are lucky to have him and many others share their learning.

 

well said

the reason i went with those 2 mods "blindly" is because the explanation behind why to be disabled from Cali and MS was clear enough and on top there was already ppl with feedback, but i wouldn't do myself something like this with 0 knowledge for sure

 

Have you seen further improvements?

 

I now understand. (See https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9117068) Thanks @S-Prihadi !

Here we have another example of harmful or negative controls engineered into our vehicles for purposes of meeting "environmental" mandates. They are either to reduce fuel consumption (and therefore emissions) or to reduce certain exhaust gases, all at the cost of performance, longevity, or functionality.

While protecting the environment is a noble goal, some of these approaches make me ask what the long-term benefits are. If battery life is shortened, what is the environmental cost to recycle a battery? Probably less than producing new batteries, but still a cost in energy and/or pollutants. Having to replace a battery perhaps twice as often or more (as @S-Prihadi implies in his post) has got to diminish the benefits of recycling.

I am not morally conflicted by making these changes.

 

as in the programming world which i am in.. you fix something but breaking something else hahahaha

so this is all about to pass their requirements from GOV, that way they can produce cars BUT at the end RETAIL get screwed as always

if im not mistaken ofc..

 

Recycling batteries in the US is still a nasty process. https://www.epa.gov/stationary-sourc...unction%20(SSM).

All lead produced in the US is now from recycling. The last primary lead smelter closed in 2013.

 

me too!
If somebody would have told me MB were built to be lemons, I would have skipped the milking and aggravations

Now I am shinning light on MB features designed to seed defects... dry pistons in 11Volts = LEAN MISFIRES... extreme heat.