Front Control Arm Bushing Replacement




Your suspension code is 485 and a 4-Matic
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Next time set the REAR TOE to 0.36 degree total or 0.18 degree each side. Its nice for high speed
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Last edited by S-Prihadi; Oct 5, 2024 at 12:57 PM.




During a turn, the inner wheel MUST angle more than outer wheel, as the corner radius is tighter at the inner side.
This one :
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Some cars make those tire screeching sound during cornering which is not the wheel skidding yet..... that is bad toe out angle.
My wheel alignment shop has the same issue , I already tried and the sensor can not read that 20 degrees wheel steering requirement for this verification.
I think the camera sensor and the wheel alignment rack is too close together, as such the reflector at the wheel get tilted too much when at 20 degrees steering. I am guessing.
Or they should have installed specific for front sensor reflector is to be angled up and not straight.
This is not angled up reflector. It can read OK, but at 20 degree steering I think this could be the culprit. Next time I will tell techy to tilt it up.

Tilt up like this
I also have not seen a wheel alignment shop ( indie ) having a true Mercedes or BMW wheel adapter for the reflector.
They always use the generic reflector as you seen on my car.
When we use the wheel to place a reflector, a minor bent wheel can effect reading.
The true alignment reading is actually at the wheel hub/knuckle.
This is why MB and BMW original wheel, will have those 5 holes for the special alignment adapter for the reflector.
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I am also kinda sad that my alignment shop does not own Romess Inclinometer and MB full software pack to use that inclinometer.
This inclinometer is not cheap and only for MB cars I think, but it is very important to have such device as it tells actual ride height by angle.
This is Romess inclinometer in use :
If we see MB Romess file, we would understand why ride height or romess use is important, because when we see Romess value off, that means something is wrong with our suspension system.
So a 485 suspension 4 matic Romess value at the front is to be at 2.67 degree....and thus the front camber is then at 22 minutes.
Front Caster also based on 2.67 degree Romess for front axle and 1.60 degrees Romess for rear axle.
I have tried using common inclinometer but I do not have the special touch pad as base.

I also do not know if my unit is a true zero when at true flat horizon. 0.5 degree accuracy is a tall order when the body of the unit is cheapo plastic...LOL.
Look at the fine machining of the touch pad.
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Hhhmmm.......I get horny when seeing workshop having all the proper required tool specific to our MB...... but they are VERY expensive
to buy 



My big picture mission was I was feeling a lot of vibratory trash in the steering. I had hoped to reduce that by replacing worn front suspension components. I replaced the outer tie rod end, both struts and both upper control arm bushings. I just drove the car 300 miles last night and I would say to a reasonable standard that has been accomplished. The unexpected benefit was improvement in steering both from a response and stability standpoint. The improved steering response has made the car very sports sedan like and fun to drive.
The bad news is on newly paved asphalt roads I am feeling vibration in the seat. The car sat on jack stands and the rear tires for a long period of time and I am wondering if the tires have become flat spotted. I am due for a rotation and rebalance and will have them closely looked at that time.
Another possibility is that I haven't replaced the rear shocks yet which is next on my list.
I hope I can get this vibration sorted out because other than the vibration I love this car. It is remarkable that a 15 yo 150K mile car still has that carved from granite feel. I mean it's not the quietest or best riding car but it is a great all around car.
I had driven a 100K Lucid earlier the day and I would rather drive my E Class.
Last edited by MBNUT1; Oct 6, 2024 at 08:48 PM.


