Front Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Yesterday, 09:13 PM
#1
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2010 E350 4Matic
Front Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Removed the front control arms and think that the tie rod ends are in pretty good shape (will confirm with a trained eye). Wondering if anyone has removed and replaced the bushings themselves? Were you able to do it with any rental tools from a parts store? Seems unlikely as the end that you would have to push the bushing out will have to be pretty precise as the wall of the bushing is pretty thin. Did you take it to a shop and what did they charge if you did?
Yesterday, 10:23 PM
#2
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
14' "comfort trim"
-- The problem I had with forward control arm (caster) was the non-replaceable ball-joint that's built into it.
The bushing had softened... I replaced the whole arm with a LEMFORDER.
I don't think bushing are worth the trouble with built-in BJ.
-- For the side control arm (camber), I replaced the ball-joint and kept the arm/bushing.
-- What restored a firm & precise steering was the $60 strut bearing/bushing.
This is really the suspension MAIN bushing.
You best not want to ignore the 10-Yr old chewing-gum in this part.
-- The steering rack tie rods seem to be holding up so far.
-- I tried adjusting the front wheel bearing play with a digital dial gauge (0.01mm)... a waste of time!
Adjust by hand with the wheel back on and plastic center cap removed: now perfect tiny bearing play.
-- All 4x swaybar links are the first items to get worned out. They make the chassis bounce side to side until you replace the rear because the front is not enough to hold the chassis by itself. It makes the car feel very bouncy like failed shocks where in fact shocks are just fine.
The outcome is my loose front end handles like new again @60kMi. It's easy to drive it centered without weak instabilities.
The bushing had softened... I replaced the whole arm with a LEMFORDER.
I don't think bushing are worth the trouble with built-in BJ.
-- For the side control arm (camber), I replaced the ball-joint and kept the arm/bushing.
-- What restored a firm & precise steering was the $60 strut bearing/bushing.
This is really the suspension MAIN bushing.
You best not want to ignore the 10-Yr old chewing-gum in this part.
-- The steering rack tie rods seem to be holding up so far.
-- I tried adjusting the front wheel bearing play with a digital dial gauge (0.01mm)... a waste of time!
Adjust by hand with the wheel back on and plastic center cap removed: now perfect tiny bearing play.
-- All 4x swaybar links are the first items to get worned out. They make the chassis bounce side to side until you replace the rear because the front is not enough to hold the chassis by itself. It makes the car feel very bouncy like failed shocks where in fact shocks are just fine.
The outcome is my loose front end handles like new again @60kMi. It's easy to drive it centered without weak instabilities.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Yesterday at 10:27 PM.
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pierrejoliat (Today)
Yesterday, 10:35 PM
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2014 Cummins, 2014 E250 Bluetec
Removed the front control arms and think that the tie rod ends are in pretty good shape (will confirm with a trained eye). Wondering if anyone has removed and replaced the bushings themselves? Were you able to do it with any rental tools from a parts store? Seems unlikely as the end that you would have to push the bushing out will have to be pretty precise as the wall of the bushing is pretty thin. Did you take it to a shop and what did they charge if you did?
-- The problem I had with forward control arm (caster) was the non-replaceable ball-joint that's built into it.
The bushing had softened... I replaced the whole arm with a LEMFORDER.
I don't think bushing are worth the trouble with built-in BJ.
-- For the side control arm (camber), I replaced the ball-joint and kept the arm/bushing.
-- What restored a firm & precise steering was the $60 strut bearing/bushing.
This is really the suspension MAIN bushing.
You best not want to ignore the 10-Yr old chewing-gum in this part.
-- The steering rack tie rods seem to be holding up so far.
-- I tried adjusting the front wheel bearing play with a digital dial gauge (0.01mm)... a waste of time!
Adjust by hand with the wheel back on and plastic center cap removed: now perfect tiny bearing play.
-- All 4x swaybar links are the first items to get worned out. They make the chassis bounce side to side until you replace the rear because the front is not enough to hold the chassis by itself. It makes the car feel very bouncy like failed shocks where in fact shocks are just fine.
The outcome is my loose front end handles like new again @60kMi. It's easy to drive it centered without weak instabilities.
The bushing had softened... I replaced the whole arm with a LEMFORDER.
I don't think bushing are worth the trouble with built-in BJ.
-- For the side control arm (camber), I replaced the ball-joint and kept the arm/bushing.
-- What restored a firm & precise steering was the $60 strut bearing/bushing.
This is really the suspension MAIN bushing.
You best not want to ignore the 10-Yr old chewing-gum in this part.
-- The steering rack tie rods seem to be holding up so far.
-- I tried adjusting the front wheel bearing play with a digital dial gauge (0.01mm)... a waste of time!
Adjust by hand with the wheel back on and plastic center cap removed: now perfect tiny bearing play.
-- All 4x swaybar links are the first items to get worned out. They make the chassis bounce side to side until you replace the rear because the front is not enough to hold the chassis by itself. It makes the car feel very bouncy like failed shocks where in fact shocks are just fine.
The outcome is my loose front end handles like new again @60kMi. It's easy to drive it centered without weak instabilities.
EDIT take that back maybe thats a e250 4matic thing not necessarily a e350 thing.
Last edited by Quint22; Yesterday at 10:39 PM.
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pierrejoliat (Today)
Yesterday, 11:25 PM
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
Facelift comfort trim / RWD
With the simple McPherson strut, I don't have any upper arm or wishbone found on sportier chassis with more parts to wear....
There are so many options in these cars that we may have different setups.
Comfort facelift RWD is pretty simplistic but effective. The weaknesses are the swaybar links and BJ's followed by big'O comfort bushings.
There are so many options in these cars that we may have different setups.
Comfort facelift RWD is pretty simplistic but effective. The weaknesses are the swaybar links and BJ's followed by big'O comfort bushings.
Today, 06:59 AM
#5
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Hi - At K-MAC we have the experience of resolving OEM Suspension shortcomings since 1964 !
SEEING OEM ALL W212 MODELS HAVE NO FRONT CAMBER OR CASTER AND NO REAR CAMBER ADJUSTMENT - New car industry’s best kept secret (all to do with ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines - there being now only TOE “directional” adjustment).
CAMBER AND CASTER is now “one setting only” (at showroom height) STOPPING TO ALIGN / ADJUST IS NO LONGER AN OPTION.
THEREFORE SOON AFTER W212 RELEASE - We provided not only uprated “suspension bushings” but included “adjustment” - allowing to adjust tire contact angles, spread load more evenly TO RESOLVE EXCESS EDGE TIRE WEAR AND OWNERS HAVING TO FUND COSTLY PREMATURE REPLACEMENT !
FRONT ARM INNER BUSHINGS INCLUDING CAMBER.
FRONT FORWARD FACING THRUST ARM BUSHINGS INCLUDING CASTER.
THEN FOR REAR - THE LOWER ARM INNER BUSHINGS FOR CAMBER (all above ‘6’ bushings in total are also the highest wearing).
WITH THE ADDITION OF “REAR CAMBER FACILITY” - there is not sufficient Toe adjustment. So rear kit includes “Extra” Toe !
K-MAC KITS ARE DESIGNED TO BOLT-ON. BUSH EXTRACTION / INSERTION TOOLS INCLUDED - SO NO “SPECIAL TOOLS” REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED TO REMOVE CONTROL ARMS !
ALSO THE K-MAC UNIQUE PATENTED DESIGN BREAKTHROUGH ALLOWS - ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT - Easily accessible / single wrench. “Accurately” - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
SEE SPOILER:
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and Costs) Since 1964 !
SEEING OEM ALL W212 MODELS HAVE NO FRONT CAMBER OR CASTER AND NO REAR CAMBER ADJUSTMENT - New car industry’s best kept secret (all to do with ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines - there being now only TOE “directional” adjustment).
CAMBER AND CASTER is now “one setting only” (at showroom height) STOPPING TO ALIGN / ADJUST IS NO LONGER AN OPTION.
THEREFORE SOON AFTER W212 RELEASE - We provided not only uprated “suspension bushings” but included “adjustment” - allowing to adjust tire contact angles, spread load more evenly TO RESOLVE EXCESS EDGE TIRE WEAR AND OWNERS HAVING TO FUND COSTLY PREMATURE REPLACEMENT !
FRONT ARM INNER BUSHINGS INCLUDING CAMBER.
FRONT FORWARD FACING THRUST ARM BUSHINGS INCLUDING CASTER.
THEN FOR REAR - THE LOWER ARM INNER BUSHINGS FOR CAMBER (all above ‘6’ bushings in total are also the highest wearing).
WITH THE ADDITION OF “REAR CAMBER FACILITY” - there is not sufficient Toe adjustment. So rear kit includes “Extra” Toe !
K-MAC KITS ARE DESIGNED TO BOLT-ON. BUSH EXTRACTION / INSERTION TOOLS INCLUDED - SO NO “SPECIAL TOOLS” REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED TO REMOVE CONTROL ARMS !
ALSO THE K-MAC UNIQUE PATENTED DESIGN BREAKTHROUGH ALLOWS - ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT - Easily accessible / single wrench. “Accurately” - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
SEE SPOILER:
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and Costs) Since 1964 !
