I have a 2005 E55 that is nicely modified and have maintained very well. 10's of thousands spent on service and repairs including a new transmission last year. It at a 103k miles and I'm thinking of selling. Not sure what I would get but came across a 2013 E55 with 60k miles on it. I don't know anything about these cars. What should I look for? Any known problems I should be aware of?
And will I be disappointed going from E55 to E550? I like that it's more modern, but I like the hit if my E55.

 

Well, you have a later model E55 and genuine M113K AMG engine. The problem with the dual radiator and transmission cooler has been fixed. The M113K is a simpler design than more modern engines, so you will have less problems with carbon build up on the intake valves. Plus, some simple mods to the engine, such as a smaller SC pulley with a tune, will make the beast that much meaner. 100k miles is not a lot for that car. The engine is virtually indestructible, and the transmission has already been addressed. Not many cars today will eff with an E55.

Now, the E550 is of course a newer car with less miles, so it probably has some technology upgrades which you may or may not care about. The good thing is that I think you can add CarPlay or Android Auto fairly easily. Here is a good discussion about adding the RoadTop module. https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...y-install.html

You may want to watch this video first. What is not covered is the reliability of the newer engines and problem with cylinder scoring. Still, an interesting video.

 

Oh, I forgot, a 20-year-old car could probably get you historic vehicle status and waive emissions tests, depending on your state.

 

Appreciate the insight. AMG Meister is "The Man". I love his oil change video, so meticulous and clean.
My car has crank and sc pullies. Exhaust and other mods. It's very similar to his black e55 in the video. Almost as clean. It's the allure of a newer car is all. I feel like if I don't sell now, I'll probably end up owning it another 10 years.

 

I wish. Not here in Colorado.

 

Fwiw, my ‘14 E550 coupe is one fast sleek whip. HOWEVER, I didn’t pay quick enough attention to the chain noise when it presented with cold starts…and I paid a pretty significant price.

Made it through that around 110k miles and thought ‘Shewee, glad that’s behind me’ and then turbo crapped out around 130k miles. Still own it and gf drives it with CEL for low boost (and it IS the turbo that failed), mostly because I have a decent investment in it and will not pass that problem off to some unknowing young/eager buyer. If the turbo hadn’t failed, I was going to sell it for ~$10k when I bought the E63S.

I bought my ‘14 from a MB dealer out of state for $23k with 56k miles and felt it was a good deal. Frankly, I still do…just wish I knew more about chain noise issue, acted faster, etc. My car is hella quick b/c of the OETuner Stage1 I put on it…but likely also contributed a bit to the turbo failure.

Just my $0.02

 

I can think of worse things.

Beautiful car, by the way. And 103,000 miles in 20 years ain't a lot -- 5000 miles per year. Personally, I'd keep it.

I got rid of my 2004 SL500 because the ABC was starting to have problems, the gas tank baffle had come loose and would bang around, and I always worried about the hydraulics of the top. I traded it for my 2015 SL400 since the R231 had fixed a lot of the issues with the R230, was more powerful and faster, had significantly upgraded technology, and was 11 years newer. Still, I think the R230 still has an ageless beauty.

You should prioritize what you want most out of a car and compare the two. Heed what Jaybird said about the engine.

 

Exactly what I've read about and am afraid of. Not that my car has been trouble free but I'm sure replacing turbos isn't gonna be cheap. You do get a lot if car for the money but it sucks when these huge repairs arise.

 

Yup. I spent around $2k in parts to do the repairs I listed above. Not terrible given the new life breathed into coolant system, oiling, and timing. Would’ve been $10k++ at a dealer.

But this turbo thing is rough…still struggling on whether to actually spend $7-10k more on a 10yo car w/135k mi. What if the tranny goes after the turbo job?!

 

Every time I read where someone asks this question, I ask, "Can you replace your car for less and be certain the replacement won't also have problems?" If the answer is "yes" then go replace it. If the answer is "no" then spend the money to keep it.

 

M278 is my favorite engine but some mechanics don't recommend it because of complexity of it but what makes it complex also makes it so desirable to me (bi turbo is great to me )

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what is this chain noise issue?

Thanks

 

There is a momentary rattle when starting the engine cold. This is attributed to insufficient oil pressure on cold start because the engine oil has drain back into the oil pan overnight. Chain tensioners are hydraulic, and the lack of oil pressure on startup allows the timing chains to be loose for a few seconds during which time the chains slap against the tensioning rails. Over time, the chains cause premature wear of the rails to the point of possible chain skip.

Mercedes has addressed this by using a one-way check valve with updated tensioners to reduce or eliminate the drain-down of oil. The fix can be retrofitted to older engines, but many times the damage of excess wear has already occurred.

 

Sounds like an easy fix if caught before damage is done.
I assume the new style is/was a recall and if completed, should be documented?

 

Here's more info. Check to see if your engine is affected (document attached). You can find your engine number at www.lastvin.com. The TIPS report states:

"The secondary chain tensioners produce a rattling noise until the engine oil pressure has built up. No consequential
damage is to be expected. Other causes not related to secondary chain tensioners are also possible and not described in this LI.."

Though it states no consequential damage is to be expected, clearly there has been. The attached document is version 14 (12-11-2019); there may be newer versions. Original (version 1) was published 07-16-2013. So, you can see it is continually updated. I don't have direct access to TIPS.

 

Good thing you were able to do that yourself. What exactly did you repair?
I would not want to spend the money at this stage on the turbos. As you stated, what will be next. There comes a time to cut and run and all too often it's only obvious after the fact.

 

Not a fan of the M278 engine long term/high mileage.

chain issue as noted
bore scoring
oil in harness
drinking problem

 

Well we happen to have that exact year E550 and we love it, BUT, compared to your '05 E55 you won't be anywhere near satisfied with the whip unless tuned (and more caveats to follow). Brother in law had an '05 E55 and it truly was a rocket - the E550 is no slouch, but an AMG is, well, an AMG with all that goes with it. BIL had a '13 E63 and liked it better that the E55, BUT the M278 and M157 share some issues. Fortunately for us, we had a good warranty that covered the oil in the engine harness (replace engine harness) and bleed down of tensioner pressure (new tensioners and check valves) and we hopefully will avoid the cylinder scoring as we (1) changed the oil frequently (to keep in warranty) and (2) found through this site the trick to unplug the solenoid that reduces oil pressure (for slightly better fuel mileage) at the expense of better piston cooling and cylinder lubrication and VVT operation, etc.

Knowing what I know know after owning the car and getting things fixed proactively, I wouldn't buy anything M278 without exceptional maintenance and a thorough inspection, including even a borescope of the cylinders (and a warranty just in case?). Best of luck and don't trade your known hotrod for an unknown potential problem semi-hotrod...

 

@05-E55 you have a 5-speed tranny? I understand there is a company in Louisianna that modified the valve block to make shifting quicker, etc. If you're looking for someplace to get rid of your disposable income, you could do that.

Not sure this is the video I remember seeing, but it came up in my search. The 722.6 seems to be a much easier transmission to maintain and repair.

 

Maybe this: https://www.vrpspeed.com/product/vrp...lve-body-v2-2/

 

 

Keeping the E55. Thanks for the insight.

 

I got one from SunValley in CA. $3k and install was $2k.