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Steering wheel tilted after control arm replacement.
Hi there, I just finished replacing my control arms, and I thought I had put everything tye same way together, but apparently not since the steering wheel now tilts few degrees to the right after I changed the arms on the right side.
there was a lemförder arm the larger one, and it didn't have the stamped washers and the grooved bolt, they were replaced with stamp washers and grooved bolt.
which arm could have caused the wheel to tilt?
Also, anyone know how I can determine if I need to get it re-aligned or is it maybe a necessity each time you replace the arms?
I bought this kit.
Hi there, I just finished replacing my control arms, and I thought I had put everything tye same way together, but apparently not since the steering wheel now tilts few degrees to the right after I changed the arms on the right side.
there was a lemförder arm the larger one, and it didn't have the stamped washers and the grooved bolt, they were replaced with stamp washers and grooved bolt.
which arm could have caused the wheel to tilt?
Also, anyone know how I can determine if I need to get it re-aligned or is it maybe a necessity each time you replace the arms?
I bought this kit.
Get alignment, e.i., toe adjustment as there are no other adjustments.
Alignment goes off if you have worn joints. Why did you want to change the parts? Worn joints, right?
No, the joints weren't bad, they seemed to have plenty of time left sadly, but their bushings were cracked and 1 had blown joint rubber and 1 was starting to show cracks in the joint rubber.
Hi there, I just finished replacing my control arms, and I thought I had put everything tye same way together, but apparently not since the steering wheel now tilts few degrees to the right after I changed the arms on the right side.
there was a lemförder arm the larger one, and it didn't have the stamped washers and the grooved bolt, they were replaced with stamp washers and grooved bolt.
which arm could have caused the wheel to tilt?
Also, anyone know how I can determine if I need to get it re-aligned or is it maybe a necessity each time you replace the arms?
I bought this kit.
New front suspension arms SHOULD NOT EVER use bolt with the slot/groove, which is a CORRECTION BOLT for Caster or Camber, depends on which arm get that correction bolt.
If by accident the suspension arm is using CORRECTION BOLT, that is what you are seeing now on the steering not being centered.
Also you must tightened the suspension arm at proper ride height ( pre-loaded ), or else the bushings will be short lived.
Its not a joke to tightened the suspension arm unless on a tall 4 post lift. 110-120NM and 180 degrees, the 180* is the bi-tch if working with only less than 2 feet clearance from the ground.
New front suspension arms SHOULD NOT EVER use bolt with the slot/groove, which is a CORRECTION BOLT for Caster or Camber, depends on which arm get that correction bolt.
If by accident the suspension arm is using CORRECTION BOLT, that is what you are seeing now on the steering not being centered.
Also you must tightened the suspension arm at proper ride height ( pre-loaded ), or else the bushings will be short lived.
Its not a joke to tightened the suspension arm unless on a tall 4 post lift. 110-120NM and 180 degrees, the 180* is the bi-tch if working with only less than 2 feet clearance from the ground.
CAMBER, when using correction bolt.
CASTER, when using correction bolt.
I just used the bolts that came with the set/kit. 🫣
I went and checked the arms again today and noticed a small imprint from the washer on the steel where the bolt is, then i realised that i had turned the bolt in the wrong way, the groove on the bolt turned to outside the car but should have turned inside the car. I changed the direction of the groove and and the steering wheel is centered again.
but now the right side has the correction bolts on both camber and caster. Caster had the normal bolt.
Yea it was no joke working on it under the car using only a floor jack, and not a chance for me to use the torque wrench unless having to remove alot more stuff, even then I doubt I could fit the wrench there.
I did measure from the center of the wheel to car body before lifting it up, then used a smaller floor jack to raise the knuckle to the ride height and then finished fastening the bolts.
Get alignment, e.i., toe adjustment as there are no other adjustments.
Alignment goes off if you have worn joints. Why did you want to change the parts? Worn joints, right?
The OP did not replace anything that would affect tow, that is affected by the inner and outer tie rods only. Now his use of various bolts/nuts/washers on the camber/caster side could/will affect the steering wheel placement.
The OP did not replace anything that would affect tow, that is affected by the inner and outer tie rods only. Now his use of various bolts/nuts/washers on the camber/caster side could/will affect the steering wheel placement.
???
Replacing arms with bad joints, including the rubber bushings, certainly affects the toe.
Also, as good as manufacturing today in most places is, an arm length can still be ever so slightly different between old and new parts that does change suspension geometry and can change the toe.
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