Esp,dash lights , speedometer
It happens occasionally, sometimes just once and sometimes three to five times in a 30-minute drive.
The esp light comes on the clock runes backwards to 11:30, the speedometer stops working and the dash lights turn off, then the clock runs forward to correct time
And dash lights and speedometer all return to normal but the esp light remains on. This whole process can happen once or three times is a short drive. When you turn the car off and then start it again it's all normal. If I turn on the cars computer control on and put the car in Dino mode (turning esp off) and start the car and then turn shut the car off and return the esp to on it will act normal for a day or two then it all starts again?




It happens occasionally, sometimes just once and sometimes three to five times in a 30-minute drive.
The esp light comes on the clock runes backwards to 11:30, the speedometer stops working and the dash lights turn off, then the clock runs forward to correct time
And dash lights and speedometer all return to normal but the esp light remains on. This whole process can happen once or three times is a short drive. When you turn the car off and then start it again it's all normal. If I turn on the cars computer control on and put the car in Dino mode (turning esp off) and start the car and then turn shut the car off and return the esp to on it will act normal for a day or two then it all starts again?
You describe what sounds like a bad power connection
Many electrical issues can help your car dysfunction:
aged Relay cube
low Batteries,
old alternator,
oxidized GND strap,
Soaked Footwell carpet
Check your "in-dash battery".
Very easy cheap 5mn service.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 3, 2025 at 10:22 PM.




Anyway, get a decent scanner and and scanned for DTC, it should have STORED codes for low voltage or loss communication.
Since yours is a 2008 W211, I have zero familiarity with W211, but the basic still applies and your car is 16 years old today.... thus bad electrical contacts somewhere is very likely.
You describe what sounds like a bad power connection
Many electrical issues can help your car dysfunction:
aged Relay cube
low Batteries,
old alternator,
oxidized GND strap,
Soaked Footwell carpet
Check your "in-dash battery".
Very easy cheap 5mn service.
[/QUOTE]
two shops have said they think it has a faulty cluster. Can you put a used cluster in to confirm and then have it programed without loosing original milage?




You describe what sounds like a bad power connection
Many electrical issues can help your car dysfunction:
aged Relay cube
low Batteries,
old alternator,
oxidized GND strap,
Soaked Footwell carpet
Check your "in-dash battery".
Very easy cheap 5mn service.
[/QUOTE]
two shops have said they think it has a faulty cluster. Can you put a used cluster in to confirm and then have it programed without loosing original milage?
What needs to happen is TROUBLESHOOTING. Replacement MB parts need to be coded to each chassis ESPECIALLY IC that's involved with security.
Replacing IC directly yields to NO START.
ICluster is 95% very reliable honest module.
What controls power in your chassis is the Front-SAM. If you want to get lucky check for signs of water inside SAM'S tub. that's a whole lot better than useless parts.
If you are helpless, find a Mercedes specialist to get your car working

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 3, 2025 at 03:12 PM.



