You have already patched your broken wires.

How you go from here to fixed is by troubleshooting and that means using a scanner to interact with SAM's devices.

 

Have fun with the 7 + 2 wiring diagram and info docs


Your rear tailight is this one :




Your model being a 2012 model year but production is 2011 :
Slowly read the legends, always use before 2013 production when there is such info as UP TO May 2013 written as ---->05/13
06/13 ---> , is for after June 2013 production. Wiring diagram usually shows year of production and not model year

Your car :
Model Year 2012
Release Date 2011-08-16
Delivery Date 2011-08-16


Use the data card I attached to ID your car options, for wiring diagram compatibility.

7 pages of rear SAM wiring covers every car and model year they call C207.3 and .4 , so it is a lot of information old an new, choose wisely information for you car.


Have fun

 

I still hate MB WIS for the way they confuse people



.





The ILS LED Code 640/641/642 is the dead give away the car is facelift model which we call it as model year 2014.
One may made mistake choosing wiring diagram written as : UP TO MODEL YEAR 2014

----

It is more proper and less confusing that the document for cars before facelift is to be written as UP TO BEFORE MODEL YEAR 2014 and not UP TO MODEL YEAR 2014
In production, a W212 of late 2013 production like mine Delivery date: 30 08 2013 ( Germany to Indonesia ) is a model year 2014
In wiring diagram use , I must use the ones labeled as 02/13---> ( after Feb 2013) or --->03/13 ( after March 2013) and not --->02/13 ( Before Feb 2013 )


See below, how useless and confusing it is when wiring diagram is refered to Model Year and not actual production year. Below dates are PRODUCTION DATES




Good luck.....

 

Thank you S-Prihadi for the details.
This is a lot of info. Let me go thru it.

-maan

 

S-Prihadi, would you be able to share the schematics for the rear SAM control unit ?

thanks

 

Never mind.

I see the attachments now.

Regards
-maan

 

Here is what found using Launch Creader Elite V2.0
It indicated a GND short when Left and right turn signals are turned on.
However, when I activate each one of them thru the same tool, they all work okay, on , off.
Same thing for tail lights. They both light up when toggled using the tool, on. off.

Any clue ?

I have not checked the resistance to GND on each one of them yet. Will do it tomorrow.

Any pointers ?

 

I also see two more errors but I assume they are unrelated, unless some one thinks differently .

 

What a giant progress: now you have your work cut out for you directly by the Rear SAM.
you're able to toggle the Rear SAM to work manually.

You know what circuit to focus on... knowing what happened earlier, triple-check you did not cross out connections during harness repair.

Identify & check which fuses are involved with your 3 circuits.

Your second screen cap is for unlikely related stored issue

+++ FURTHER TESTING:
we want to see Rear-SAM responds to F-SAM requests....
Go in the Front SAM to activate the brake pedal switch an warning hazard switch .

 

Man,
Please be aware that DTC description for wiring fault can be generic or broad spectrum.

Short circuit mentioned below can also means OPEN CIRCUIT, so inspect them well for loose/cut connection too.




.


Sometime loss of power can make produce DTC with weird explanation like below as in SOFTWARE ERROR or even CODING ERROR.
CAN message faulty can also means MISSING SENTENCE of the CAN-BUS, power losss can make this kind of DTC too.





==================


I give you an example of me testing my Front SAM by removing some relays, just for database sake to see what kind of DTC I get.


This is Relay J being removed and DTC from ESP ( among others ) See CODING is faulty message




---


This is relay N removed. Removal of Relay N will STOP POSITIVE POWER FEED to xyz devices on the engine aka power loss. See what the DTC mentioned ? SHOR CIRCUITS to ground LOL





So, take DTC description carefully and DO NOT think it is 100% true. It is true that the effected device or crcuit has issue, but what is the real issue ?... this you need to inspect further.

 

Hi S-Prihadi,

My apologies for the slow responses here. Got busy with other higher priority things.
Here is what I have done so far :

1) Re-checked all the wires , one more time, one at a time. All look good. No cross connections.
2) I am able to actuate the lights ( brake lights, blinkers, side markers etc..) using the diag tool. This confirms the connections are okay.
3) When I press the Ignition button once ( accessories turning on ) , Blinkers work fine. Tail lights don't turn on in this mode.
4) Pressing the Ignition button again ( but not start the car ) turns on the tail lights and at this time Blinkers stop working
So as soon as the tail lights are activated, blinkers stop working.

Since the wire which got cut were for the trunk lid lights and now the entire rear lighting electrical system is giving errors, i have am
starting to question the health of the rear SAM.
Issue starts when multiple lights ( i.e. multiple outputs of SAM ) get activated.

How do i diagnose the rear SAM ?
Do you have the schematics of SAM ?

thanks

 

I already gave it to you in post #27 https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9114926

good luck

 

If I may suggest, use PC/Laptop when reading post with lots of attachments. Easier to see.
I only post here using PC with 27" screen x 2, old eyes ha ha ha

 

You could also use ctrl+scroll wheel to zoom in and out of the webpage.

 

In regards to attachments, before you enter the thread, there is a paperclip icon that means there are attachments in the thread. You click it, it will show every single attachment ever posted in the thread, with date and time in a list.

 

For example, the oil pump solenoid thread with so many attachments, it would otherwise be hard to find them. Longest thread on mbworld after all.

 

Hi,

Yes, I only read or post anything using my laptop. My eyes are also getting old .
I have read thru ( and tried to understand ) the attachments. I am an electrical engineer by profession and quite proficient with schematics and PCB design etc.. . However, I am not from the automotive industry.

My suspicion is that when short circuit happened ( due to most of the wires in the bunch got crushed and then cut ) it may have done some damage to the line drivers (or some logic) in the SAM module .
Here I am referring to the logic board inside the SAM module enclosure.
The schematics shared in the post#27 only shows the external connections to the SAM module and the fuse/relays used in there.

Are there any more details available about the rear SAM ?

I am looking for any suggestions on how to go about debugging this ?
Entire rear subsystem is impacted , tail lights, rear side markers, center brake light, trunk interior lights, blinkers, I am even suspecting the rear proximity sensors.

regards

 

Aha, you meant the SAM internal motherboard schematic ... , we never seen one or will ever have access to one.
It is possible the short circuit happened too long and burdened the driver.

It is actually a smart driver, will shut the channel having short circuit. But you never know if long term short circuit event.
The rear lights are original from MB, correct ?

 

Yes, all the lights are original.
Any other ideas on how to rule out the SAM ?

Also, is it possible that i may only one fault somewhere but it's giving error messages for the entire back light subsystem ?

One funky behavior i see is that the center brake light will have a few LEDs always on even after the car is turned off. I noticed that the voltages goes down to about 3v to that LED block ( from 12v when it's fully operational ). That light never turns off. So I keep it disconnected now i.e. no center brake light for me for now.
Similar observation on one of the rear side markers. E4/1e5 always remains on even after turning the car off . I have that wire pulled out from the side marker connector.

regards

 

Let me try to assist where I can .

The storyline Summary


============ START==========

Symptoms :

- Error message for malfunction of - Brake lights (both) , Tail lights (both) , Rear blinkers (both), Rear markers (both), Central Brake light

Here is what I see :

- None of the Rear Blinkers work ( But hazard lights do, all of them )
- Both the Brake lights work
- Rear Side makers work , but the left has one column of LEDs which does not light up
--- I swapped the marker lights just to know if it's the light fixture or the wiring
--- It turns out the swapping did not help the left marker, confirming it's not the Marker fixture, it's wiring or control somewhere
- Central brake lights sometimes work but the other times only a few LEDs light up


Background -

After removing the inside liner, I noticed that a bunch of wires were cut , some shorted with each other, due to the trunk arm some how
crushing them
I have repaired them since then.
All the observations listed above are after the wiring was restored.
Prior to noticing this cut wire issue, I was getting random failures on those light fixtures.


Here is what I have tried so far :

- Eliminated the Markers by swapping them. I also bought a new marker assembly but, the issue persists
- Tried every light ( brakes, markers, center parking lights, blinkers etc.. ) by supplying 9v to them. They all work.
- Checked all the LEDs visually when they were turned ON. They all seem to light up.
- Checked all the fuses, pulling out one at a time ( using Multimeter for resistance ) - fuse box in the rear, fuse box in the engine bay
in front of the steering wheel
- Checked all the relays in those fuse boxes for continuity by energizing them using 9V supply, they all work
- Took out rear SAM and checked all the cables and connectors for any corrosion or burning, no issues there either.


======================

Here is what found using Launch Creader Elite V2.0
It indicated a GND short when Left and right turn signals are turned on.
However, when I activate each one of them thru the same tool, they all work okay, on , off.
Same thing for tail lights. They both light up when toggled using the tool, on. off.

======================



My apologies for the slow responses here. Got busy with other higher priority things.
Here is what I have done so far :

1) Re-checked all the wires , one more time, one at a time. All look good. No cross connections.
2) I am able to actuate the lights ( brake lights, blinkers, side markers etc..) using the diag tool. This confirms the connections are okay.
3) When I press the Ignition button once ( accessories turning on ) , Blinkers work fine. Tail lights don't turn on in this mode.
4) Pressing the Ignition button again ( but not start the car ) turns on the tail lights and at this time Blinkers stop working
So as soon as the tail lights are activated, blinkers stop working.

Since the wire which got cut were for the trunk lid lights and now the entire rear lighting electrical system is giving errors, i have am
starting to question the health of the rear SAM.
Issue starts when multiple lights ( i.e. multiple outputs of SAM ) get activated.


====================


One funky behavior i see is that the center brake light will have a few LEDs always on even after the car is turned off. I noticed that the voltages goes down to about 3v to that LED block ( from 12v when it's fully operational ). That light never turns off. So I keep it disconnected now i.e. no center brake light for me for now.
Similar observation on one of the rear side markers. E4/1e5 always remains on even after turning the car off . I have that wire pulled out from the side marker connector.



======STOP=======


First we need to call a device by the correct name, so that we do not get confused. Note : My country has no side marker light

You wrote : Similar observation on one of the rear side markers. E4/1e5 always remains on even after turning the car off

E41e5 is Right Rear Fog lamp and not a side marker light.


I think E3e15 and E4e15 which are OUTER BACKGROUND LIGHT is the US equivaent of rear side marker.
Logically US wants for rear of the car a red light visible from the side view of the car and amber for the front...that is what I read.


MB only called the front side marker as : SIDE MARKER
I can't find MB definition of rear side marker light.

I am attaching some more useful information. 5 pdf-s.


------

Let's breakdown the troubleshooting into 3 parts :

Part A is the COMMAND to turn on all the "target" lights. This has front SAM involvement and is via CAN BUS. Hence I attached for you the Funtion Schematic.
Part B is the actual ELECTRICAL POWER for the target lights driven by each of its drivers. Since you may have a weakened driver
Part C is the management chip at the REAR SAM which process instructions from Front SAM or scanner bi-directional control to turn on/off the target lights. Perhaps this is a LOGIC side of the circuit.

The rear tail lamp 100% uses driver for these "bulbs". No relay.



.






.
You tried using scanner to command those target lights and possible. Scanner goes to Front SAM central gateway.
So that means the command from Front SAM to Rear SAM technically has no issue and rear SAM processor can process that command/message.
I forgot the details of actuation ( bi-directional ) test for rear lamp, ASK : When commanding target lights , you need to choose LEFT and RIGHT tail lamp and can't choose both...correct ?
Sorry, me only play/actuate with front lights most of the time.

May I suggest to disconnect LEFT and ALSO right Tail Lamp, one by one and repeat your normal use test, not using scanner.
Let's see if the driver somehow got weak and can't support both tail lights or indeed there is still an issue on one the the tail light assy.

Will come back when I have more suggestion...........

 

Thank you S-Prihadi for all the info and help.
I have not had a chance to try out the experiments you suggested yet. It's been raining for last 3 days here.
There may be a break on Sunday. I will try then.

Regards

 

Hi S-Prihadi, here is the data I have so far :

Brake/Tail lamp ( E3 / E4 )
Test #1
- Works okay when the exterior light selector switch ( S1) is set to "P" ( parking )
- Tested each side individually

Test #2
- works okay when Ignition is turned on

Test #3
- works okay when brake is applied


E3/1 and E4/1 ( Inner Tail, brake and fog light)
- E3/1e4 , E4/1e4 works okay

Test #4
When S1 is turned to Exterior lights always ON position ( with Ignition ON ) and the FOG light button is pressed :
- Front fog lights work okay
- E3/1e5 ( Fog light) - DOES NOT WORK
By design I think only E3/1e4 supposed to work.



E3e1/E4e1 ( Rear blinkers)

Test 5
- Left and Right work okay when only accessories mode is turned on ( i.e. pressing the Ignition button once )
- Both blinkers work okay when hazard switch ( S6/1) is turned on in the accessories mode
NOTE - when the accessories mode is ON, the tail/brake lamps are NOT fully lit up. I think not all LEDs are turned ON. This may be by design.

Test6
- None of the blinkers work as soon as the ignition is turned ON ( and the car is started) OR the Ignition button is pressed twice ( but the car is not started yet)

NOTE - When the Ignition in turned ON ( with or with out starting the car ) the brake/tail lights get pretty bright, unlike the accessories ON mode where it's not as bright.

Trying out one E3, E3/1 OR E4, E4/1 at a time does not make a difference .

So , the blinker drivers get turned off as soon as the Ignition is turned ON. Not sure what's the difference between Accessories ON and Ignition ON in the terms of
power to the Brake/Tail lamp.

Let me know what you make out of this data.

Regards

 

Is your light switch like mine ?




I will do the same exact test as what you did. I am assuming your test is by person and not directional control using scanner..correct ?
Give me time as I need to set up my camera to record the lights in action and also screen record Xentry to see the actual activity Xentry is seeing.


Rear Fog light is only 1 side for MB W212 and W204 and most Mercedes if I remember right, and not both Left and Right like Audi.
Your car being a LHD, the rear red fog lamp will only be available to the LEFT rear light.
Me RHD car, the rear red fog lamp will only be available to the RIGHT rear light.

As for changes in brightness you mentioned :
NOTE - When the Ignition in turned ON ( with or with out starting the car ) the brake/tail lights get pretty bright, unlike the accessories ON mode where it's not as bright.
Hence the need for camera recording. I never pay attention to this .

Even though I have my daylight ( front ) disabled for city use, the dumb-azz light switch of mine not having OFF or ZERO position like oldie Mercedes, everytime Ignition is ON for scanning,
the parking lights ( also daylight ) front and rear will always be ON. I hate that. What I do is set it to PARK either Left or Right, and then the parking lights ( standing lights ) gets turned OFF.
Parking Light Left or Right when selected, will only be ON, when and if the key is out of the slot.
I love using keys, I removed my push button ( safer too from radio signal hacking ).
One can never go wrong using key, but can go wrong using push button when fast choosing between accesories mode to Ignition ON mode fast....... back and forth.

Will get back soon.....

 

Okey , I done the test in person with video and Xentry as observer of signal, not for actuation. I actuate everything manually.


TEST CONDITIONS :

01. Battery get Battery Maintainer assist, no deficit and mild <1 amp charging only.


02. My light switch is below : There is no OFF.




03. When key is in the slot ( I use key, not push button ) and if Ignition ON, forever the standing light front and rear will be ON.
To kill those power wasting lights during scanning works, I need to set light switch to PARKING.


Here we go..................


You stated :
Test #4
When S1 is turned to Exterior lights always ON position ( with Ignition ON ) and the FOG light button is pressed :
- Front fog lights work okay
- E3/1e5 ( Fog light) - DOES NOT WORK
By design I think only E3/1e4 supposed to work.

Did you set light switch to LOW BEAM ( red arrow below , right image)? If not, rear Fog Lamp won't work.



---------------


You wrote in blue and orange :

E3e1/E4e1 ( Rear blinkers)

Test 5
- Left and Right work okay when only accessories mode is turned on ( i.e. pressing the Ignition button once )
- Both blinkers work okay when hazard switch ( S6/1) is turned on in the accessories mode
NOTE - when the accessories mode is ON, the tail/brake lamps are NOT fully lit up. I think not all LEDs are turned ON. This may be by design.

Me : This does not happen to mine. My tail light all light up the same be it at key in Accessories Mode or Ignition Mode.

--------------

Test6
- None of the blinkers work as soon as the ignition is turned ON ( and the car is started) OR the Ignition button is pressed twice ( but the car is not started yet)
Me : Dang, something is wrong.


NOTE - When the Ignition in turned ON ( with or with out starting the car ) the brake/tail lights get pretty bright, unlike the accessories ON mode where it's not as bright.
Me : How is your battery voltage / condition ? Ignition ON consume more battery power than key at Accessories Mode.
You did not use a battery maintainer ? Need 20 amps constant capable unit as minimum.


This video is for you to compare our tail light operational behaviour. Some of my voice is rather garbled, my apology.



.


Let me do more thinking soon on your lights possible issue.
I want to see what "signal" difference Rear SAM is getting from Front SAM between KEY in : Accesories Mode and Ignition ON mode.
Not CAN BUS type of signal, I was hoping to see Circuit signals, if any. Say Circuit 15 , 15R..... something like that.

.

 

I done a re-confirmation video, because I want to confirm that the rear tail light STANDING LIGHT E3e17 ( E3e11, same ) section, does not give extra brightness when i press brake pedal.
Only the true brake light strip get turned ON.

Xentry device description made me think that the E3e17 ( E3e11, same ) is like oldie INCAN bulb in W204, where Standing Light is a 21 watts bulb powered at 50% when being a Standing Light,
but when brake pedal depressed a dedicated brake bulb will be ON and then the Standing Light bulb then get full power at 21 watts and thus brighter....like a doube duty or double filament bulb of oldie cars.

.

MENU is TAILIGHT



.


-----


MENU IS BRAKE LIGHT





MENU IS BRAKE LIGHT
Below : See, when brake pedal is not depressed, E3e17 ( E3e11, same ) is declared as NOT ACTIVE, but it is still lighted/ON.



Name difference in Xentry vs WIS. This is a common quirks of MB data.


The confirmation video of brake light




Will be back.............

.